Ontario 18 inch vs 22 inch machete?

S

smodtactical

Joined
Feb 11, 2012
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86
What do you guys like between these two? They are the same price. The 22 weighs a bit more. But for those that have these, is the 22 inch much more floppy when cutting? I figure I wouldn't mind some even more reach if the 22 inch is a good blade.

Thank you!
 
Does anyone have any input? I would really appreciate it if someone could reply soon as I want to buy the machete today.
 
Alright screw it I just ordered the 22 inch. I wouldn't mind more reach and more chopping power. Weight of the blade and being tired is not a concern in my decision. Hopefully it all works out. I'm surprised to find very few reviews on this bigger blade except for Amazon. I don't think I saw even 1 video review of it.

I also ordered the Ontario nylon sheath for the 22 inch Machete for $10. I wish I could find a good plastic locking type sheath but I want to order off Amazon and I didn't see anything like that for 22 inches.

Thanks.
 
It seems to me that you had little patience to wait for an answer so it must have not been too important a question. :p

I generally like a 20"-24" machete, but think that the Ontario machetes are a little over-heavy in the hand at that length because of their thickness without taper.
 
I am with 42 on this one. The 22" Ontario really needs some meat taken out of the spine to be better suited for laborious work. It's size is a bit over the top for most everything I have needed, in fact I have found that 14" works just fine for most of my needs.

And yes it has some notable shimmy and shave to the blade, especially when you sink it into something tough. But that keeps it from shattering.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
It seems to me that you had little patience to wait for an answer so it must have not been too important a question. :p

I generally like a 20"-24" machete, but think that the Ontario machetes are a little over-heavy in the hand at that length because of their thickness without taper.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks for the reply. I wanted to order fast just so I can get it fast before my Amazon prime shipping period runs out, it will expire soon. I apologize if I seemed impatient.


ron_m80 said:
I am with 42 on this one. The 22" Ontario really needs some meat taken out of the spine to be better suited for laborious work. It's size is a bit over the top for most everything I have needed, in fact I have found that 14" works just fine for most of my needs.

And yes it has some notable shimmy and shave to the blade, especially when you sink it into something tough. But that keeps it from shattering.
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I see. Well as I mentioned size and weight isn't really a concern for me from a fatigue point of view. If the blade is too much for me I'll endeavour to workout and become stronger. If however the size of it reduces its slicing effectiveness, that could be a problem. Something people mentioned was an issue with the Golok. I see now that the Machete is actually as thick as a Golok at some parts of it (1/4 of an inch). This is quite surprising! But I will stick with it and see how it goes.

Thanks!
 
I don't believe you'll find the Ontario to be 1/4" thick anywhere on it. It's 1/8" thick at the spine. If you find you don't care for the length, just cut it down to size with a Dremel and regrind the tip. It'll need some work on both the edge and handle for it to be trail-ready. :):thumbup:
 
Ah I see, probably wrong information on the site I saw it on then. Ok thanks for the advice. I don't have any experience with regrinding or using a dremel so hopefully it will be ok.

What work needs to be done on the handle?
 
You'll need to flush the scales with the tang and shape the scales so they don't feel like a brick. Also the point will be rounded and the edge will suck. So you'll need to spend a little while with a file to get it in working shape. It's worth the work, though.
 
I advise you NOT to use a dremel on your edge. The dremel will do well for cutting length off, if you choose to do so, just keep it cool.
For the edge, a long flat file can either get it sharp, or thin out the edge. I find that rounding off that bevel shoulder allows for better cutting and chopping. Use two C-clamps and a flat surface, deck rail, table, etc. so the edge is sticking off.
It takes a while, but you'll be creating the edge that you need, thick or thin, as you see fit.

What handle did you get? Rivets, or the D-Guard?
 
foxx said:
I advise you NOT to use a dremel on your edge. The dremel will do well for cutting length off, if you choose to do so, just keep it cool.
For the edge, a long flat file can either get it sharp, or thin out the edge. I find that rounding off that bevel shoulder allows for better cutting and chopping. Use two C-clamps and a flat surface, deck rail, table, etc. so the edge is sticking off.
It takes a while, but you'll be creating the edge that you need, thick or thin, as you see fit.

What handle did you get? Rivets, or the D-Guard?
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Agreed. Just use the dremel for doing the cut-off work. C-clamps and a file will do you well for reprofiling/sharpening. Foxx also raises a good point in that if you go the D-guard version you don't need to do all the work on the handle, as it's injection molded and encapsulates the tang.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
You'll need to flush the scales with the tang and shape the scales so they don't feel like a brick. Also the point will be rounded and the edge will suck. So you'll need to spend a little while with a file to get it in working shape. It's worth the work, though.
Click to expand...

I got the D-guard model so I guess I'm ok in terms of the handle. Can I use a diamond file to work on the edge? Its the one I got with my S&W CKSUR6 search and rescue and it worked well on that knife. I don't have access to any better sharpener right now unless I buy something off Amazon.

foxx said:
I advise you NOT to use a dremel on your edge. The dremel will do well for cutting length off, if you choose to do so, just keep it cool.
For the edge, a long flat file can either get it sharp, or thin out the edge. I find that rounding off that bevel shoulder allows for better cutting and chopping. Use two C-clamps and a flat surface, deck rail, table, etc. so the edge is sticking off.
It takes a while, but you'll be creating the edge that you need, thick or thin, as you see fit.

What handle did you get? Rivets, or the D-Guard?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the nice detailed instructions. I don't have access to that kind of equipment right now but maybe when I go back home I can go to a local guy to help me. First though if you don't protest I'd like to try a diamond file without any table or clamps etc.


FortyTwoBlades said:
Agreed. Just use the dremel for doing the cut-off work. C-clamps and a file will do you well for reprofiling/sharpening. Foxx also raises a good point in that if you go the D-guard version you don't need to do all the work on the handle, as it's injection molded and encapsulates the tang.
Click to expand...

I see, yes I got the D-ring. Thanks for the insight. I don't plan on cutting this short.

I do have 1 question I just got the 22" Ontario machete sheath (machete should come tomorrow) and it feels quite nice and heavy duty. Its nylon on the outside but inside there is this plastic/leather like white material. Any idea if this is real leather, simulated leather or plastic?

This is the one: http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knive...0ITG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1329261092&sr=8-2
 
I imagine what you'll find is this. You'll get an edge with your diamond file, and that will cut. Once you go chops some wood, you will see the wear on the black coating. Note how much wear happens at the top of the bevel. This is a point of friction, and using an inexpensive file to round this part will allow for deeper bitting, thus less effort to chop.
My first Ontario 12" was a big learning experience for me. I used a file, then lots of sandpaper, then decided to go back to the file, then more sandpaper. I did my 18" faster, because I clamped it down, and just got a longer file, and knew how far I needed to go.
Fast forward a bit, and I got the Bark River modified Ontario machete, man they went thin on the edge! I haven't used it, winter and all, but I would never have thought to go so thin.
Point is, start off with a thicker edge, and get it as thin as you feel you need it, based on how it chops for you. A thicker edge will be "stronger". I could see the factory edge taking very little damage compared to the Bark River's edge, during similar use.
The Bark River Ontario started out as an 18" heavy duty, because that allowed for material to be removed. I don't think they intended for it to be a heavy duty machete after they were finished thinning it down. Somewhere in between the two is the correct edge geometry for you.
 
Thanks Foxx I get what you are saying about filing the bevel so it chops deeper. Also something in between your bark river and the factory edge makes sense too. Thanks so much. I will keep it in mind once I get my ontario 22.
 
I generally find that performance gets maximized at 30 degrees inclusive, or 15 degrees per side. Your mileage may vary, but I find the 30 degree inclusive angle with the geometry transition blended like Foxx describes will give you excellent results. :)
 
I would suggest just go use it, and where you see high friction wear take down the shoulder between secondary grind and the spine. That is the fastest way to go about getting the machete in good working order
 
I agree--I was just stating what I find to be the usual ideal result. The method you and Foxx prescribe woud be the best way to perform the experiment for ones self and to find personal preference. The edge WILL need some work out of the box all the same, though. :)
 
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