Recommendation? Optimal Axe Sharpness?

thunderstick said:
Out of curiosity -- what is your methodology for dressing a puck and keeping it that flat after 40 years? That's impressive looking. Not much room left to hold the edges and keep away from the bit.
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Every time I pull it out I look at it closely for high spots. Then I simply sharpen on a high spot. It naturally stays flat. My grip has adapted to the stone as the stone changed. I'm able to use it without ever cutting myself.

Most of that stone was eaten up during the 20-some years it spent in my nail bags. It mostly sharpened wood chisels, pocket knives and utility knives.
 
Yup. Just keep an eye on the high spots and concentrate your work there.
 
I like 'em slightly convex 'n razor sharp. I bring them to a surface polish to get rid of any scratches. Because, so I hear, a break can propagate from a scratch not just a small chip or ding. I set mine up to cut hardwood and have found that any softer species cuts amazing with that edge. I just am careful with especially spruce knots. Which there are always a million. Good thread it turns out even thought when I saw the title I thought it would be boring! Nope!
Edit; I thought I would add that out of habit I honed my 5lb splitting axe to a razor edge. But due to the geometry being correct after splitting several chord it's almost as sharp as when I started. So I see no disadvantage to starting with a hair popping edge. It's not weak if done right.
 
Square_peg said:
Every time I pull it out I look at it closely for high spots. Then I simply sharpen on a high spot. It naturally stays flat. My grip has adapted to the stone as the stone changed. I'm able to use it without ever cutting myself.

Most of that stone was eaten up during the 20-some years it spent in my nail bags. It mostly sharpened wood chisels, pocket knives and utility knives.
Click to expand...
Well I haven't seen another stone in service that long that is that flat--pretty impressive looking from the pic.
 
Yankee Josh said:
I like 'em slightly convex 'n razor sharp. I bring them to a surface polish to get rid of any scratches. Because, so I hear, a break can propagate from a scratch not just a small chip or ding. I set mine up to cut hardwood and have found that any softer species cuts amazing with that edge. I just am careful with especially spruce knots. Which there are always a million. Good thread it turns out even thought when I saw the title I thought it would be boring! Nope!
Edit; I thought I would add that out of habit I honed my 5lb splitting axe to a razor edge. But due to the geometry being correct after splitting several chord it's almost as sharp as when I started. So I see no disadvantage to starting with a hair popping edge. It's not weak if done right.
Click to expand...

Yup with splitting if the geometry is right the edge only works where it is needed--cutting the initial fibers and opening small knots. I suppose when splitting with a twist the edge would get more wear than with a straight down swing.
 
A loaded p
Yankee Josh said:
I like 'em slightly convex 'n razor sharp. I bring them to a surface polish to get rid of any scratches. Because, so I hear, a break can propagate from a scratch not just a small chip or ding. I set mine up to cut hardwood and have found that any softer species cuts amazing with that edge. I just am careful with especially spruce knots. Which there are always a million. Good thread it turns out even thought when I saw the title I thought it would be boring! Nope!
Edit; I thought I would add that out of habit I honed my 5lb splitting axe to a razor edge. But due to the geometry being correct after splitting several chord it's almost as sharp as when I started. So I see no disadvantage to starting with a hair popping edge. It's not weak if done right.
Click to expand...
Polished with a loaded strop?
 
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