Orientation for slabbing scales

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Nov 5, 2016
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I have a hunk of marble wood that I’m planning to make a fairly shaped handle from for this camp knife I’m working on:
eOnpadm.jpg


So far I’ve mostly used wood that was already cut into scales or was a block for a hidden tang with an obvious orientation based on dimensions. This is my first time really slabbing my own scales, and the piece I’m working from is essentially square (not originally cut for a knife). I’m trying to determine the proper orientation to cut the slabs structurally and visually. I’d appreciate any guidance from those that do this more regularly. I took some shots trying to show both sides and the end grains for each orientation.

Orientation #1:
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Orientation #2:
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You want the end grain running from top to bottom, as in the last two photos. This will give the best look when shaped and be less likely to crack. Photos 1 and 2 will be wrong.
 
I have the marblewood blocks stabilized, then slice into scales. I then flip the scales for bookmatched sets. I buy larger blocks of wood, around 2X6X6 and have the whole block stabilized, then slice on the table saw into equal size scales ( usually around 1/4"). This gives the most scales for the lowest cost.

TIP:
When slabbing a larger block into many sets of scales, draw a double line diagonally across the top of the block. After slicing, this makes it easy to re-assemble the scales in the proper order to separate into matched sets.
ALWAYS cut scales from square blocks down the grain in the orientation discussed previously, NEVER across the grain. Don't be tempted by the cool look of the end grain … it will almost always split.
 
Thank you gents, and thank you Stacy for the extra info. That gives me good guidance for the future. I was particularly worried about the possibility of making a structurally unsound handle.
 
That looks like a turning block, so you probably should check how dry it is. If it's not super dry, either get it stabilized and cut like Stacy said, or slab, sticker, and dry for 6-12 months.
 
That looks like a turning block, so you probably should check how dry it is. If it's not super dry, either get it stabilized and cut like Stacy said, or slab, sticker, and dry for 6-12 months.

Good call on this. I picked up a cheapy moisture meter to check. I know this thing probably isn’t super accurate, but when I tested some well dried stuff I had it came back 0% (I’m sure not actually 0%, just below what this cheap meter can read), and the marble wood tested as 20% MC. Eeeek! I won’t be using this just yet it seems. It’s currently completely coated in wax. Would I be right in thinking that will impact it’s drying? Should I sand off the wax layer to let it dry for the next 6-12 months?
 
Sand or scrape the wax off. A cabinet scraper is easy to make from some thin stock, and will remove the surface quickly.
It will take about 6 months for the wood to drop low enough to stabilize. If you make a drying cabinet with a 75 watt light bulb in the bottom ( a closed box with wire shelves and a 1" hole in the top) you can dry all your wood much faster before shipping for stabilizing.

TIP:
When you remove wood from a drying oven, store in sealed zip-lock bags or snap top bread storage plastic bins. I ship all my wood to be stabilized in zip-lock bags.
 
I would scrape the wax off on the long sides but would leave the wax on the end grain. If the wood is still 20% then it can still develop cracks if dried to fast.
 
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The lazy man's version of a drying oven is to throw your turning blanks in your attic and promptly forget about them for 5-10 years. It's like giving your future self Christmas presents of perfectly dried exotic wood.
 
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