Pacific Salt 2

Wharn

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Feb 1, 2011
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I just opened the Pacific Salt 2 and my initial findings are positive. Spyderco has made some nice subtle CQI changes to my favorite model by using the endura 4 handle. The blacked out back lock and screws are a nice touch too. I will always cherish my Pac 1 but I’m probably going to retire it and start carrying the 2.

Edit: Sorry I forgot to mention my Pacific Salt 1 was ground down to a Jandura-like wharncliffe by Brad Southard.
 
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Nicely done wharn.
The 2 is good, I prefer the 1 seies it stands out from the delica, enduras.
Thabks for sharing
Mitch
 
Question: is the coating on the clip different or is it just the lighting in the first pic? I believe Seki does/did use TiCN for the Salts.

I wonder if the reason why they didn’t go LC200N is that Seki didn’t want to work with an exotic non Japanese steel?

An aside - after reading Larrin’s story on H1 I’m not so in awe of it anymore! Reality boils down to the only thing “special” about is that it is one of the low carbon super corrosion resistant austenitic steels that can actually get hard enough to make a decent knife from it. I know it’s soft as far as knife steels go at 55-58, but for steel in general that is actually very hard, your non rusting butter knives certainly aren’t anywhere that HRC!
 
The coating on the clip seems different from the 1. It is more matte and has a different feel to it. I was also hoping to see LC200N show up, but still enjoy H1.
 
Maybe the slightly different clip coating is Spyderco CQI at work? The finish on the Salt clips always did come off quickly.
 
after reading Larrin’s story on H1 I’m not so in awe of it anymore! Reality boils down to the only thing “special” about is that it is one of the low carbon super corrosion resistant austenitic steels that can actually get hard enough to make a decent knife from it.

Here is what he said:

Knifesteelnerds said:
Edge retention is relatively poor but toughness is good and the corrosion resistance of H1 is excellent.

Besides, reality, i.e. my use of the steel, shows that edge retention is quite good and edge stability is fantastic - yes in plain edge - when thinly full flat ground. An unscientifically measured large amount of cardboard cutting was required to cause it to stop shaving hair, and even more to stop slicing paper. And then a mere stropping brought it back to doing both. I'd call H1 very special indeed, when proper cutting geometry is applied.

Pacific Salt.JPG


But I don't carry it, because I prefer tip down. I would rather have the E3 handle with tip down if I could, but will settle for the E4 handle, after some modification of course (as always). More like this:
IMG_5069.JPG

Although this would be fantastic:

IMG_5659.JPG
 
Question: is the coating on the clip different or is it just the lighting in the first pic? I believe Seki does/did use TiCN for the Salts.

I wonder if the reason why they didn’t go LC200N is that Seki didn’t want to work with an exotic non Japanese steel?

An aside - after reading Larrin’s story on H1 I’m not so in awe of it anymore! Reality boils down to the only thing “special” about is that it is one of the low carbon super corrosion resistant austenitic steels that can actually get hard enough to make a decent knife from it. I know it’s soft as far as knife steels go at 55-58, but for steel in general that is actually very hard, your non rusting butter knives certainly aren’t anywhere that HRC!


Hi John,

Our maker in Seki that makes the Salts has made LC200N prototypes for us that came out fine. Full flat 59/60 Rc. In time we will make production pieces using LC.

H1 is unique in it's abilities. The plain edge does get very sharp and holds its edge better than any other Austenitic steel and the serrated edge will stay sharper longer than most steels in general. I suggest that you try one, especially in serrations. If you don't like it, I'll buy it back from you.

Lab tests are very good information, but more than 15 years of Real-World-Testing (RWT) has shown H1 to be very special.

sal
 
Hi John,

Our maker in Seki that makes the Salts has made LC200N prototypes for us that came out fine. Full flat 59/60 Rc. In time we will make production pieces using LC.

H1 is unique in it's abilities. The plain edge does get very sharp and holds its edge better than any other Austenitic steel and the serrated edge will stay sharper longer than most steels in general. I suggest that you try one, especially in serrations. If you don't like it, I'll buy it back from you.

Lab tests are very good information, but more than 15 years of Real-World-Testing (RWT) has shown H1 to be very special.

sal

Sal- don’t get me wrong SE H1 is great, I own it in SE and actually once used it in an emergency to (quickly) cut through heavy wrappings to access a hose faucet to fight a fire. Also most wet environments that would require it are probably best served by serrations as well.

LC, in my view, is superior because is performs well serrated or plain edge and and is for all intents and purposes not going to rust either.

I avoid PE H1 as I have owned 2 models and they had very poor edge retention, and the work hardening from use really isn’t true.

I often carry a SE Salt 2 and will definitely buy a PE Pacific 2 once they come out in LC. I had a Caribbean leaf PE and liked it’s cutting performance but didn’t like how the handle was too “blocky”.
 
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H1 is unique in it's abilities. The plain edge does get very sharp and holds its edge better than any other Austenitic steel and the serrated edge will stay sharper longer than most steels in general. I suggest that you try one, especially in serrations. If you don't like it, I'll buy it back from you.

Spoken like a man who can't have too many H1 knives around!

I had a Caribbean leaf PE and liked it’s cutting performance but didn’t like how the handle was too “blocky”.

And I do this with all due respect to you Sal; your designs are undeniably iconic, but I don't understand middle finger humps on a handle:

IMG_5917.JPG

See John, you can make it your own.
 
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Our maker in Seki that makes the Salts has made LC200N prototypes for us that came out fine. Full flat 59/60 Rc. In time we will make production pieces using LC.

That is some GREAT news!! A linerless Salt 2 in LC would be the ultimate EDC for me as I just love the current Salt 2 in PE...

How far is this into the future if I may ask? Sal Glesser Sal Glesser

:cool::thumbsup:
 
I'm not sure if the central stamp is part of the mold or not, but using the already-proven and well loved Endura handle might be an advantage in not having to keep two molds and two types of pocket clip around.

That looks like an oxide coating on the pocket clip. I like it best when clips are either bare steel or oxide coated rather than painted, I can wear the paint off to where it's ugly within a couple weeks. The textured backspacer looks cool as well, I think making that backspacer yellow or white with black stripes would be a pretty cool little appearance mod for a one of a kind piece.

Looks like a good upgrade.
 
That is some GREAT news!! A linerless Salt 2 in LC would be the ultimate EDC for me as I just love the current Salt 2 in PE...

How far is this into the future if I may ask? Sal Glesser Sal Glesser

:cool::thumbsup:
Same here. Pacific Salt 2 in PE LC would be a near perfect EDC in all occasions. I'm waiting on the Siren to come out as well. I did just pick up another Pacific Salt on the exchange rather than buy a new Pac Salt 2. If the new 2 would have had LC I would have ponied up the extra money for that version.
 
I plan to grab a serrated Pac Salt 2 as soon as the yellows are out.

My experience with PE H1: factory edge was pretty much useless but FFG with more acute sharpening angle makes a world of difference. I have one bought sometime in 2007 I think and once reground close to a zero grind (middle in the pic below) it's been really awesome; for sure it doesn't have the best edge retention in the world but you can get it back to hair shaving with a quick strop on your jeans - easily one of my most cherished EDCs ever.

NKDLtch.jpg
 
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