paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

SC_Dave said:
For you guys using paper wheels to sharpen..... How do you maintain you angle? Is their a jig available? This is all new to me.
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Video:

Details:
http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop_PWsupport.htm

S_PW_mainProfile.JPG


Our website has a Shop section http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm

Overseas postage cost of our Controlled-angle Support for Paper Wheels makes it prohibitive for many, but you can make one yourself similar to what you see on our website.
You will then tell me measurements of your self-made support, and I will reprogram our computer software to set grinding/honing angle for your support.

The software sets grinding/honing angle with 0.1 degree accuracy.
It runs on all Windows PCs;
Mac OSX 10.10, 10.11, and 10.12;
and tested on Android versions 4.x, 6.x, 7.x - should be running on the latest Androids fine as well, just we haven't had a chance to test.

 
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frc505 said:
I had Richard J sharpen my ZT 0350 on his
Paper wheels a few years back and it was
Easily the sharpest knife that I owned and I
Came here to see if Richard would sharpen
2 of my current edc knives but it seems like
His medical issues have still kept him away
From the forums and so the search goes on
For a sharpening service! Does anyone have
Any recommendations for a company or a
Person that offers knife sharpening ? Thanks
For your time guys

Frank

P.S. the recommendations need to be reliable and
Have a good customer service record as I have lost
A knife or two to people who are less than honest and I can't aford to lose any more knives
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If Kwackster is not an option, Check out post #1759 Razor Edge Knives. I had him re-profile and sharpen a Clinch Pick and it was unreal. Great service easy to deal with.
 
Another PM2 in S110V.
The new edge was done on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, and then refined with 6.0 micron, 3.0 micron, and 1.0 micron diamond compound, all on dedicated Paper Wheels.
The apex is keen enough to whittle several curls in a row on one of my chest hairs while holding the hair at the root end only.
You can click each pic 2 X for a bit more detail.









 
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The owner of this Maxamet PM2 had given his knife a forced patina treatment, and besides coming out a bit uneven the acid had also completely eaten away the factory apex as well as the very tip of the blade.
To say that the knife was completely blunt would have been an understatement.
The request was to give the knife a new toothy edge with a lot of bite while making it as sharp as possible.
(You can click each pic 2 X for a bit more detail)

Before sharpening:











After sharpening.
Flattened the acid damaged "apex" some more on a 3000 grit diamond plate so i could start with fresh steel, then made a new edge on a Rubber Wheel coated with +/- 230 grit diamond powder & wax, then deburred on a Paper Wheel with 1.0 micron diamond paste & oil.
The new edge is ever so slightly convex, the new apex fits almost exactly in the 30 degree inclusive slot of my Tormek WM200 Angle Master, plus it can whittle one of my chest hairs at about 5.5 centimeters from the point of holding. (i don't own a BESS tester)
The somewhat "fuzzy" shoulders of the new edge show how deep the acid has eaten away into the sides of the blade in some area's.









 
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wootzblade said:
Video:

Details:
http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop_PWsupport.htm

S_PW_mainProfile.JPG


Our website has a Shop section http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm

Overseas postage cost of our Controlled-angle Support for Paper Wheels makes it prohibitive for many, but you can make one yourself similar to what you see on our website.
You will then tell me measurements of your self-made support, and I will reprogram our computer software to set grinding/honing angle for your support.

The software sets grinding/honing angle with 0.1 degree accuracy.
It runs on all Windows PCs;
Mac OSX 10.10, 10.11, and 10.12;
and tested on Android versions 4.x, 6.x, 7.x - should be running on the latest Androids fine as well, just we haven't had a chance to test.

Click to expand...

The February 2018 issue of the US Sharpeners' Report has our study on paper wheels carried out with these supports and software.
 
Hi guys,

I just got a Razor Sharp setup tonight. Tried it out on a cheap chef’s knife and the silicon carbide from the grit wheel was flying everywhere.

I did 5 passes aiming for about 15-20 degrees and checking for a burr each time. No burr insight. and then I turned the grinder off to check the wheel. A huge patch of the grit had come off. One side of the wheel looked fine and one side was totally stripped clean.

I’ll call Razor Sharp tomorrow but wondering what I could be doing wrong to take that much grit off so quickly. Any tips?
 
CasePeanut said:
Hi guys,

I just got a Razor Sharp setup tonight. Tried it out on a cheap chef’s knife and the silicon carbide from the grit wheel was flying everywhere.

I did 5 passes aiming for about 15-20 degrees and checking for a burr each time. No burr insight. and then I turned the grinder off to check the wheel. A huge patch of the grit had come off. One side of the wheel looked fine and one side was totally stripped clean.

I’ll call Razor Sharp tomorrow but wondering what I could be doing wrong to take that much grit off so quickly. Any tips?
Click to expand...
Hi,
Did you wax before turning on the motor? Wax before sharpening blade?
And you're sharpening edge trailing right (wheel turning away from the edge)?
And you're careful not not to catch/dig the tip or heel of knife (the points) on the wheel?
 
bucketstove said:
Hi,
Did you wax before turning on the motor? Wax before sharpening blade?
And you're sharpening edge trailing right (wheel turning away from the edge)?
And you're careful not not to catch/dig the tip or heel of knife (the points) on the wheel?
Click to expand...

I waxed before turning on the motor. I didn’t add any additional wax before sharpening the knife.

The tip and heel both caught on the wheel for a fraction of a second. Would that scrape the wheel entirely bare?

Thanks for the help! Lots to learn here.
 
CasePeanut said:
Hi guys,

I just got a Razor Sharp setup tonight. Tried it out on a cheap chef’s knife and the silicon carbide from the grit wheel was flying everywhere.

I did 5 passes aiming for about 15-20 degrees and checking for a burr each time. No burr insight. and then I turned the grinder off to check the wheel. A huge patch of the grit had come off. One side of the wheel looked fine and one side was totally stripped clean.

I’ll call Razor Sharp tomorrow but wondering what I could be doing wrong to take that much grit off so quickly. Any tips?
Click to expand...

If you haven't already done so, look at the bare spots again very closely. It's possible that the wax has smoothed out in those areas making them appear bare when in fact the grit is still in place under the wax.
 
Railsplitter Railsplitter really? That is really interesting. It certainty looks bare at first glance. How do you check to see if the grit is still there? Can you fee the grit with your finger?
 
CasePeanut said:
Railsplitter Railsplitter really? That is really interesting. It certainty looks bare at first glance. How do you check to see if the grit is still there? Can you fee the grit with your finger?
Click to expand...

Look at the surface of the wheel from the side. If the grit is still present under the wax you should be able to see it on the edges. Or carefully scrape away some of the wax and see what's under there.
 
hi guys,
i'm looking for an online shop who sells a basic 6 or 8" grinder-buffer, and the Razor sharp edgemaking system at the same time.
Any advise (except Grizzly) ?
thank you
 
Woodcraft is the only other place I know of but they only have the grit wheel in stock, not the whole system. I'm sure there must be other places but I don't know of any. Maybe the folks at Razor Sharp could recommend a dealer if you shoot them a message.
 
CasePeanut said:
Hi guys,

I just got a Razor Sharp setup tonight. Tried it out on a cheap chef’s knife and the silicon carbide from the grit wheel was flying everywhere.

I did 5 passes aiming for about 15-20 degrees and checking for a burr each time. No burr insight. and then I turned the grinder off to check the wheel. A huge patch of the grit had come off. One side of the wheel looked fine and one side was totally stripped clean.

I’ll call Razor Sharp tomorrow but wondering what I could be doing wrong to take that much grit off so quickly. Any tips?
Click to expand...

How did this turn out? Did casepeanut have to regrit the wheels?
 
Dialsharp said:
How did this turn out? Did casepeanut have to regrit the wheels?
Click to expand...
Thanks D Dialsharp - I ended up having to redo some of my garage so the grinder is out of commission for a while until ive got things back in order. Luckily I’ve got the KME and some bench stones setup in the house!

I’ll post here again when I figure things out
 
Good luck working on the garage. I have a set of these wheels from Pro Sharpening Supplies and they work pretty good. The directions say to turn the grinder around so the top of the wheel spins away from you then hold the knife with edge facing out towards wall. Holding knife flat work off the top wheel around the 11:00 position. Farther down on your side of the wheel produces a steeper angle.

I was worried in your post that you might have had the knife edge facing into the direction of rotation. That is not how these are to be used and the knife could get jerked out of your hand and end up in a bad place.

2 or 3 passes per side should be all it takes to bring up the burr. The trick is to hold them flat and have the same "clock" position on both the grinding and stropping wheels.

https://prosharpeningsupplies.com/p...6-grinders-2-wheels-wax-grit-buffing-compound
 
Dialsharp said:
Good luck working on the garage. I have a set of these wheels from Pro Sharpening Supplies and they work pretty good. The directions say to turn the grinder around so the top of the wheel spins away from you then hold the knife with edge facing out towards wall. Holding knife flat work off the top wheel around the 11:00 position. Farther down on your side of the wheel produces a steeper angle.

I was worried in your post that you might have had the knife edge facing into the direction of rotation. That is not how these are to be used and the knife could get jerked out of your hand and end up in a bad place.

2 or 3 passes per side should be all it takes to bring up the burr. The trick is to hold them flat and have the same "clock" position on both the grinding and stropping wheels.

https://prosharpeningsupplies.com/p...6-grinders-2-wheels-wax-grit-buffing-compound
Click to expand...


Thanks for the link. I didn't have the grinder oriented that way. I had it facing towards me. Tons of sparks. I don't have any grinding experience so it was a little surprising. I read nearly all of this long thread before I jumped in. Sounded like there are a few different ways people use these wheels, but turning it away from me makes a lot of sense and I will try that after I regrit the wheel. Thanks for the help!
 
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