Paramilitary 2 Pivot Adjustment Tips?

[Cypress]

I've been carrying a PM2 for a bit now, and have been mostly impressed with it. I've been reviewing it here. I took it apart and discovered a burr on the liner where the bushing sits. Once cleaning it up, I put the knife back together, expecting a smoother knife. Well... Not really. It's a tiny bit smoother, but now I'm having a HELL of a time getting the blade loose enough to flick, but not so loose that there is blade play.

Coming from a Benchmade background, I'm used to EXTREMELY smooth pivots with no play. I'd like to think that the Spyderco could get there, but I am not knowledgable enough to do it. Benchmade uses a single screw for adjustments, which makes sense. Spyderco has two screws, and both of them change the amount of drag on the blade, which seems overly complex.

So, Spyderpros, how do I get this knife to be smooth?!

 

[mr_anderson]

Actually there are 4 that affect the pivot on the Para 2. There is a second set of screws for the blade stop that affect the tension of the blade. You just have to go slowly and keep checking the tightness. I took mine apart to clean and polish the washers and now it's smooth as glass. You'd think it has bearings. You just have to fiddle with it, took me about 10 minuets to get it perfect.

 

[Mibuswolf]

I reassembled mine last night. I wanted to try out thread seal tape instead of loctite on the screws. So far so good, took a couple tries but I got it to where I want with the blade closing freely with gravity and still snug and tight when locked open.

Mr Anderson is indeed correct - you need to account for both pivot screws and both blade stop screws for the PM2.

What I found works best is to:

- disassemble all four pivot and blade stop screws

- tighten each side of the pivot screw in gradual increments by alternating one at a time until both screws are near to being flush
- at this point, tighten each pivot screw ever so slightly and repeatedly check the blade by opening and closing it
- settle on your preferred tension of the blade dropping freely with gravity and both pivot screws should be flush

- close the blade and check that it's centered

- move onto the blade stop screws and repeat tightening each side by alternating until close to flush
- again, tighten each blade stop screw every so slightly and repeatedly check the blade play when locked open to make sure it's snug
- also check the action when opening and closing and at this point both blade stop screws should be flush

Hope this helps, peace.


- Mibs

 

[Lenny]

I had to do the same thing to my Para 2 to get it to open smoothly with no play and a centered blade.
I'm glad I used LocTite prior to making all the adjustments.
I don't understand why it's so difficult for Spyderco to get this knife right.
I've had 2 Sage 1's that were absolutely perfect in every way.
Do we have to start buying Taiwan made Spydercos to get the best ones?
Kinda strange.
Lenny

 

[mkjellgren]

Do we have to start buying Taiwan made Spydercos to get the best ones?
Kinda strange.
Lenny

That's been the case for quite some time now. The fit and finish coming out of the Thaichung factory is absolutely world class, and in my opinion (and many others'), the best of any of the spyderco factories by far.

 

[Cypress]

As usual, this forum saves the day! My stop-pin screw was ~1/16 of a turn too tight. I loosened it ever so slightly, and the blade fell into the handle under its own weight. I Loctite'd the heck out of the screws, so hopefully this won't be an issue.

Thanks guys!

 

[ericvar101]

currently have two PM2 and have has as many as many 6 . I have never had a problem adjusting them. I have taken them apart many times. Make sure that the other four srews on you knife are as tight as possible, especially if its not centering, this should center the blade. After tightening these 4 screws, then adjust your pivot screws. You can have your made in Tiawan knives. i like mine to say Golden Co.

one more tip the pivot bushing is keyed with a flat spot on one side to sit correctly in the liner, I would assemble that side first to make sure it is in properly. I also recomend a drop of oil on each side of the spacers

 

[JNewell]

Post #3 has it. I have > a dozen of these and in every case the stop pin screws have to be loose enough that Loctite (use ONLY blue #242) is required to avoid inadvertent loss of the screws.

 

[FW JSB]

I've received 3 PM2's in the past couple of months and all 3 had perfectly centered blades and were well-assembled. One does, however, have a pretty tight action and has been slow to loosen up. I may have to take that one apart. IMO, these are very well-made knives and I really enjoy them. I also agree that the Taichung blades are absolutely top notch. I have 2, the Sage 2 and Gayle Bradley and they are as well-made as any knives I own, including my Sebenzas.

 

[UpDok]

Post #3 has it. I have > a dozen of these and in every case the stop pin screws have to be loose enough that Loctite (use ONLY blue #242) is required to avoid inadvertent loss of the screws.

I tried this on my new Para2 along with some oil. Now the knife is so slick I can't believe it!