Vilepossum That is the normal way of carrying a 1911, cocked and locked. If you look at the cellphone, toothpick, sheath combo thread you'll see that uber cool Wilson 1911 in the same condition. So besides the grip safety you also have the thumb safety which must be disengaged to fire as well. I kinda think of a 1911 as a "handgunners" handgun not the gun for everday Joe. Not because they are dangerous to carry this way as they are not. But because it takes practiced training to use one well, to articulate the safeties. My friend in the pics has put in the time and effort, he is trained up. I have shot with him many times out at our little range at the ranch. Besides if we had a current pic those holsters would be hanging from that flower carved belt that Nichole just did a short time back. Got two more belts for him (basket stamped, one black and one oiled) that just need the edges finished up. They'll be finished today.
HeefageLA the buckle doesn't slow down the draw. If a faster draw is needed only thread the top of the buckle with the strap. Pull up on the strap with your fingers, hook the thumb under the flap and raise up grasping the butt as you do so and the gun is in your hand. Faster than typing it out for sure. Like this pic. This is an early prototype and was made just for saddle carry.
I have made many with Sam Browne studs but the problem here is that it limits the holster to the amount of guns it will securely carry. For instance this one pictured below will only fit this Tokarov. From a makers standpoint it also has its problems. What if the customer has different grips than your model? The last few I did for customers I sent them the strap with the hole precut and the rivet and instructions on how to install the rivet so that th ae strap was right. I no longer offer the stud as an option. Buckle only. I really don't like snaps. And for the perceived use of this holster (riding in very rough country) I don't trust them. Ken I made this one to have the butt cant towards the rear. I've had others canted forward where the holster would rub on the cantle (back of the seat) of my saddle. This works better for this app.
On my flap holsters the cant can be adjusted through the loop placement on the backside of the holster. For more adjustment you can make the slot 2.75" instead of 2" and I use a 5" strap for the loop. Then the end user can adjust the cant for what is comfortable for them. Here is a pic of a friend with her Rangeflap for her Ruger Bearcat carried crossdraw. Same holster carried on the strongside can be carried straight up or down or slightly forward or to the rear as desired.
This shot shows the belt arrangement that allows that.
That loop can be riveted on up or down for different applications. Most of the time I will have the top of the loop even with the top of the slot.
So I believe that cant of the holster becomes a personal thing, its what is comfortable for the end user. This arrangement on the flap holster does provide some adjustability.
Those 1911 holsters do cant forward some. But they are for a different purpose, not horseback so much. I have made many Rangeflap holsters for 1911s too for those that do want to carry that gun horseback.
Ken the early 1911 holster with the strap, thats called a "breaktop' holster. Yes it does work off a snap. The snap is opened by pushing straight down with the thumb when grasping the butt for the draw. Here is the front and backside of one I made for a Ruger GP101 in .327 mag.
The thumb tab for the snap is two layers of leather skived to zero at the bottom. This is necessary to provide the stiffness required to draw the gun as described. On the strap that comes over the hammer there is a light piece of chap leather sewn on to cover the back of the snap and protect the guns finish
