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Plans for 2"x72" Knife Grinder/Sander No welding required

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No Weld Grinder/Sander Plans (NWGS)

belt-side-platen-and-table500.jpg

No Weld Grinder/Sander with Flat Platen attachment and adjustable tool table rest

By Tracy Mickley
Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
www.midwestknifemakers.com

These printed plans are for a 2” x 72” belt grinder or sander. The construction requires no welding, no machining, no lathe work, no precision thread tapping, no special tools.

Purchase these plans HERE

Plans are just $25

These are paper plans and will be mailed to you via US First Class Mail upon purchase.
Just to be sure, this is not for an actual grinder or any part of grinder. This listing is for plans that you can use to construct your own grinder/sander using your materials.

This grinder design uses tool arms to change from a contact wheel to a flat platen to a small wheel to slack belt attachment in seconds. If you have a KMG grinder from Beaumont Metals already, you can use the tools from that grinder in your NWGS.

Features:
  • No Welding needed!
  • No Lathe needed!
  • No Machining or Mill work needed!
  • 15 pages of clear CAD drawings with measurements and materials list on each drawing.
  • Master materials list.
  • Quick change tool arms allow multiple attachments to be changed in seconds.
  • Plans include tool arms for: Flat Platen, Tool Table Rest, Slack Belt, Contact Wheel.
  • Very low cost materials used in the construction.
  • Rock solid and vibration free.
  • Tool Table Rest design allows tool rest to be used with any attachment.
  • Flexible design allows different belt lengths to be used besides 2” x 72”.
  • No precision thread tapping required.
  • Design is a no weld design but the grinder can easily be welded if you desire.
  • Flexible, robust design allows you to make changes to customize your grinder/sander to your own needs. If you make tapered tangs on your knives or have wanted to, simply stretch the plans and make a 15” flat platen with ease.
  • Can use KMG tool bar arms.
  • Hundreds of hours of R&D and multiple proto-type testing went into the design of this very capable grinder/sander.
  • Web support with additional pictures and ideas for other attachments via www.midwestkms.com
  • Suitable for use in grinding metal and sanding wood. In case you are wondering, when you are working with metal, the machine is called a grinder, when you are working with wood, the machine is called a sander.
  • 2”x72” abrasive belts are one of the most common and competitively priced sizes of belts. Compare prices on this size belt to any other. If you are using a smaller size grinder/sander. The money you save using 2” x 72” belts will pay for this machine in no time flat.
  • 2” x 72” belts have more types of belts available for them than any other size belt. It’s no wonder that knife makers and custom wood workers have settled on this size of grinder/sander.
motor-side-contact-wheel-w-table-500.jpg

Grinder with 8" contact wheel and tool table rest. The tool table rest can be removed in 2 seconds. I use a setup very much like this to grind my hollow ground knives.


The printed assembly manual contains:

15 pages of detailed CAD drawings with measurements and materials lists on each drawing. You could easily build the entire NWGS from these CAD drawings.

In addition to the CAD drawings, there is a 28 page construction manual with:
  • Clear BW pictures of various parts of the grinder for visual reference during construction. Nothing tells it better than a picture!
  • 5 pages of assistance in selecting the proper motor for your grinder.
Note: We do not provide wiring diagrams or support for hooking up or wiring your motors. There are simply too many variations to do that. If you don’t know how to wire a motor, buy it from a reputable motor shop and they will show you in about 5 minutes how to wire it up.

  • 3 pages of information on abrasives including a conversion chart for the different technical standards of abrasives.
  • 2 pages of supply sources – every part has multiple supplier sources but nearly every single part can be purchased locally.
smaller-wheel-motor-side-500.jpg

Tools Required:
A metal band saw is very helpful as is a drill press. If you don’t have a band saw, you can get the heavier material cut to size for a nominal charge (usually around $2 to $3 a cut after the first cut) from the metal supplier. A hand hack saw can handle most of the cuts. If you don’t have a drill press, you can use a variable speed hand drill.
A carpenters square. A tape measure, a scribe point, assorted drill bits (actually just 4 drill bits – 1/8”, 5/16”, 3/8” and ½”), a 3/8”-16 tap and tap wrench. A Unibit™ (step drill bit) works exceptionally well in this project as a supplement to your regular drill bits or even in place of them. Cutting/tapping lubricant (oil will work but cutting lubricant works better). A rotary tool such as a Dremmel™ tool (or hand file to) cut 2ea 1” x 3/16” key way slots. Hand wrench or adjustable wrenches to tighten bolts.
You can see the tools required are very modest and simple.
small-tool-rest450.jpg
 
Sure looks like a great grinder and will allow many to get a machine that will do a complete job !!! Well done TRacy !!! Just what many want, need, and will be able to afford !!! Frank
 
I looked this over and it is a lot like a KMG. Neat that no welding is needed but, I can see where a guy with a welder could save some bolts and time. I like it. Good job
 
Thanks guys...

This isn't a KMG clone but certainly it has some things in common with one.

I've been asked about costs for building one of these and the answer is, it depends so I put the following together.

This is my best effort to estimate costs for building this grinder. The costs listed for the motor’s are what I paid locally. The costs for the metal are from the charges I incurred locally when purchasing metal for this project. Your costs will probably vary on this slightly but this metal is very competitive business and is surprisingly cheap. The costs for the wheels are what I sell them for on my own web site (www.midwestkms.com) and are accurate at this time. This isn’t a guarantee of the costs, it’s only a reflection of what I paid when I designed and built this grinder (several times) in the summer of 2007. No tool costs are taken into account but you probably have nearly all the tools already, even in a modest shop.

Cost Projections Break Down:

Plans = $25
You will save $25 for the plans cost just by avoiding trial error that I went through building your own grinder.

Basic frame
Metal with connecting hardware for the frame and all attachments = $75
Misc – knobs, bushings, etc = $25
Pillow Block Bearings 5/8” $12.50x2 = $25
Total Frame and all metal for attachments = $125 full plans build (no wheels)
Minimal build flat platen attachment only = $60
Note: Attachments include tool table rest, flat platen, slack belt, contact wheel arms. This is for new metal from the metal yard (scrap) yard. Most scrap yards will let you walk around and find metal they will charge you ‘surplus’ price which is less than a dollar a pound. Wheels for the platen and slack belt attachments are listed below. Save $15 by using bolts for knobs.


Wheels
8” contact wheel -$235 (smaller wheels cost less, bigger wheels cost more)
4ea 2”x2” idler wheels for a platen and slack belt attachment ($40ea) - $160
Power Drive Wheel 4” wheel 5/8” shaft bore w/keyway slot - $48
Tracking Wheel 3.5” x 2.5” with ½” bore with bearings - $53.00
Wheels total cost all attachments = $496
Wheels minimal with just a platen = $80
Note: These are high quality wheels from Beaumont Metals. Rob Frink allowed me to become a reseller for Beaumont Metals wheels. All wheels include the bearings. Initially this doesn’t sound like much but it is when you cost them out. Of course, you don’t have to build the entire grinder to begin with and the wheels are more than half the cost so you can really keep the price down if you just build a flat platen for $80 in wheels. If you find another source for wheels cheaper, let me know. I looked, I don’t think you will – but I’m entitled to be wrong. I am also a dealer for Contact Rubber Corp and the retail of these contact wheels I have listed is less than my dealer cost from Contact Rubber Corp. To my knowledge, no one is selling idler, power drive or tracking wheels like these.

Power Train:
Motor 1.5hp - $160 new
$25 to $75 used.
Pulleys 3 step pair for $31
Power Twist Link Belt 2’ $14
Switch, wire, connectors, tape, switch box - $15
Extension cord for a power cord - $10
Power Train with new motor = $230
Power Train used motor = $100
I bought a used rebuilt motor for $75 for one prototype by checking the local motor repair places. I made no effort beyond that. There are lot’s of motors out there and you should be able to find a used or pull for well under a hundred dollars. There is NO good reason to save $20 here to go with a single speed pulley setup when a 3 speed can be had using the triple pulley setup for $31.

Plans and full build, all the bells and whistles. Every thing new, all attachments and 3 speed pulley setup = $876

Plans and a minimal build, used motor, single attachment flat platen, tool table rest, frugal approach =$265 to $300
 
VERY VERY COOL. I have been wanting to get a full grinder but could not afford the cost of the kmg. I was going to build one but i dont have a welder but i do have a porta band but no drill press. Thes question i have is this, do the parts drift or are thay solid. it would be very easy to change and upgrade. if im moving it every time i use it would it get out of adjustment.
 
VERY VERY COOL. I have been wanting to get a full grinder but could not afford the cost of the kmg. I was going to build one but i dont have a welder but i do have a porta band but no drill press. Thes question i have is this, do the parts drift or are thay solid. it would be very easy to change and upgrade. if im moving it every time i use it would it get out of adjustment.

No, they won't drift. It's tank solid. I lift it up and carry it around by the grinder frame where ever I can get a grip. It's a box design so it locks it's self all up and most of it is through bolts so it can't drift. This really is an easy way to migrate up to a KMG since the key parts are there as you build it up.
 
will i have a problem not having a drill press. i could dream of this made from aluminum or stainless steel. how much does it weigh
 
it can be built with out a drill press -- you just need a steady hand using a variable speed drill. I drilled several holes using a unibit (step bit) and a portable drill. Parts of it certainly could be made from aluminum, stainless would cost too much I think. It's all mounted to a platform so I never weighed it. For just the frame and attachements? 40lbs maybe?
 
Tracy. I didn't mean that it was a KMG clone, just a similar idea. 304 stainless is about 4 times the cost of mild steel and finding the necessary sizes would be difficult, especially in short pieces. About the same problem with aluminum and it is weaker and the pivots and slides would gall. Keep you eyes open on Craig's list and eBay, yard sales for a small drill press. I have a small one I paid $25 for and a medium sized on I paid $100 for. If you had this thing all bolted together and decided you wanted some of the connections welded I know you could find a welder who would do it for very little or a decent simple knife. I would bet that once it was all together I could weld all the permanent connections out in less than an hour.
 
Tracy, what an excellent idea! Thanks man! I've been looking into building my own grinder and this is a great idea. :thumbup:
 
This can be welded very easily when bolted up. I love to weld and always over weld something. It would be tough to spend more than 15 minutes welding this up. If a guy doesn't weld, he could assemble it, haul it to the local farm welder guy and have it done for 20 or 30 bucks.
 
Ok I just ordered the plans, we well see how good thay are:D. Thanks for all your work you put into this so people like me can make a good grinder. One more question then i done bugging you i promis. i have a swamp cooler in my house and that is where i keep all my knife making stuff and i have noticed that anything that is exposed metal starts to rust. would it be feasable to paint this beast, or just put a trash bag around it to keep it from rusting. would the paint effect the alinement of it. thanks

JT Custom Knives
 
Painting it would be best in those conditions. This type of square pipe comes with some kind of oily coating to keep it from rusting at least for awhile but eventually rust is going to win out. I'd assemble it, tape off the shaft and wheels and paint away. I'll get your plans out in the mail first thing in the morning. Thanks.
t
 
I'll have to start right away on this one:D. I was interested to see about the wheels, but then saw about Beumont's, been searching for those golden wheels for nothing, but Beumont is the very cheapest.
 
This is swell!

I almost wanna build it just because it would be nice to say I built my own, although the customized, variable speed Bader II Tim Wright made for me is going strong.

The only thing I'd HAVE to do would be make it a variable speed 1 1/2-2hp set-up because I am sooooooo spoiled by what I have already.

Ad Adammichael's MAP arm and this might be perfect

Syn
 
Michaels MAP is the schiznit. He's way smarter than I am cause he's a cheeze head. My tool arm stone age compared to his. I think I'm going to nag him to do a poor man's version of his MAP..
 
Tracy, Is there anyway that if I bought the plans I could also get the CAD drawings? Or do you just offer paper drawings?
 
Thanks to a call from Andrew Garrett.
He found a measurement error in the NWGS plans.
The error is this:
The plans call for 1.75"/sq tube for the tool bar's and the sliding tubes in the tool rest. The correct size is 1.5"/sq.

This error affects 4 CAD drawing pages and 2 pages in the assembly manual. The correction is to use a 1.5" tube where a 1.75" tube is called for in the tool bars and sliding tubes.
I will be sending out via email a PDF file containing the corrected pages for all that have purchased the plans to date. The corrected pages can then be printed immediately. If I don't have your email, I will mail via US First Class mail, corrected print outs. Any of you that have purchased plans and desire a corrected print out in addition to or in place of the PDF file for any reason, simply send me an email and I will be glad to mail out a set of corrected pages for you. All plans shipping forward will have the corrections in place.
The error in the plans will result in the purchase of 8' of 1.75"/sq tubing this is not needed.
If any one that has purchased the plans to date and then bought the incorrect size tube due to my mistake in the plans, send me an email and I will make it right.
My sincere apologies to all affected.
Thank you Andrew for letting me know.
 
Tracy, off topic here, but I received the sample bottle of oil you sent me and am anxious to try it out. Thanks again.

Rodney Mitchell
 
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