Plate quenching 52100 ?

L

Lu1967

Joined
Oct 20, 2014
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Hey guys,just wondering how many of you plate quench thin stock in 52100.I know people do it but was wondering if there was any differences from using oil.Google didn't give me much.Thanks for any replies. Lu.
 
Maybe in extremely thin stock. Even then I'm not sure. 52100 has a 3 second pearlite nose....so not much time at all to "get 'er done". Deferring to the experts on that one.....
 
Another thing to consider is that if bevels are ground, the cutting edge (the part that most needs proper quenching) isn't in contact with the plates. Doesn't sound good to me....
 
Thanks for the replies.I,ll go ahead and try it on a thin blank. Just getting tired of the warping/twisting during the oil quench. Thanks again. Lu.
 
I am not sure you have understood the answers. They are saying I won't work well at all to plate quench 52100. It needs a fast and direct quenchant. Fast oil is the only way to get full martensite.

Plate quenching is just a modification of an air quench that is faster than air and prevents/minimizes warp. It is not a good substitute method for 99% of oil quench steels.

A plate quench has been used in conjunction with an oil quench is used by a few folks. Oil quench the 52100 in fast oil, and pull out after 5-6 seconds. Immediately place in the plates and clamp shut.
 
Thanks Stacy,Your last paragraph sounds like the ticket.I'll try that.Thanks again. Lu.
 
to avoid warps you have to heat and cool the blade evenly. and to have the internal structure normalized and fine.
Anyway thin stock it's not difficult to straighten post-quench, but having a mess of martensite-bainite (...and pearlite) in a blade is the worst thing.
 
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