PLUMB Axe worth restoring

Joined
Mar 23, 2018
Messages
6
First post.

This PLUMB 32 axe has been in the family a long time. I think it was my grandfather's. It has the red epoxy Permabond, so based on what I read on this forum, I guess it is post 1956.

I put it in a little Evapo-Rust for 4 hours and this is the result. It looks like the heat treatment never extended the full length of the bit.

Does this mean it won't hold an edge and make the axe a clunker? Am I wasting my time restoring it further?

Thanks,

Al
fetch

fetch
 
Last edited:
Axe manufactures do not heat treat the entire head. Your axe looks great. I think if you fix up the profile a bit you will have an axe for a lifetime. It is exactly how it should be!
 
It shows some ware and it has a worn toe but you can fix that with a file. Profile it sharpen it and go to work !
 
PLUMB 3 2 merely means the head is Plumb made and that it weighs 3 and 2 quarter (3 1/2) lb. Handle is original too. This thing was hardly used (decal material is still on the cheek) except for some clown/clod/cowboy figuring on it being perfect for chopping roots. Despite the epoxy-set (which you already know makes it post-1956) what you've got is a 'top drawer' chopping implement. Do some reading, lay in some files and get this 'classy old girl' back on the road. The dearth of poor souls that visit Lowes/Home Depot (etc) armed with cash nowadays haven't a 'hoot in a rain barrels' chance of going home with a 'lifetime' tool like you have.
 
Appreciate the responses. Now I've got to do a little research on sharpening technique, bevel angles, etc. Chisels and plane blades are about the extent of what I've sharpened before.
 
So, here's a picture before I did the Evapo-Rust. Obviously, a lot of the red paint/stain on the handle is missing, but the wood itself is good -- no soft or punky areas. Is there a standard restoration for these? I suppose I could take it to bare wood and then try to apply a similar red stain or dye. Alternatively, I could see a light sanding to remove any loose paint, and then some pure tung oil to penetrate and seal the exposed wood. Thoughts?
fetch
 
This looks to be a Connecticut pattern to boot! These are highly desirable amongst axe junkies for ultimate 'users'. Understand that you are not restoring this axe, you are resurrecting/refurbishing it. The condition it was in before you tangled with it (before that vinegar bath) was of greatest value to collectors and museums and anything you do beyond this only devalues it for purists. As a 'beauty user' though everything and anything you do (short of cutting it up) is fair game. But do this entirely for yourself and personal use without any expectation that it'll improve the value.
 
Definitely want to put this axe back to use and I have no intention of selling it. I don't know anything about axe patterns. What makes it a Connecticut pattern and why is that desirable from a utilitarian point of view? This axe would likely have been purchased by my grandfather somewhere in southern NH in the mid-to late 50s.
 
There's a thread on the go at the moment about 'Connies'. These and 'Jerseys' have real appeal for folks that live outside their traditional sphere of distribution. I'm located in southern Ontario and have never come across either one of these patterns (new nor used) over the past 50 years. Far as I can tell no Plumb products made their way into the Ottawa Valley either. Walters Axe of Hull PQ pretty much sewed-up the market for 80 years until the 1960s when Swede imports began to undercut them. None of that ended well.

Connies have an overly generous eye depth meaning they'll 'hang tight' with the best of them. Aussie-made 'racing' axes are suspiciously 'Connie'-looking for good reason.
 
Last edited:
It's a fine axe and will make a great chopper. The heal and especially the toe have been abused a little - not bad. Someone let it swing into the dirt. Shame on Grandpa (or the friend he loaned it to). But it's easily fixable.

I'd take the center of the bit back about 1/8" and then feather that into the heel and toe. Then file to thin the bit to the forest service gauge. I'd give it a half banana grind. Hone it fine. Then it will rock your world!

2-Banana%20grind.jpg

Sharpening%20gauge.jpg
 
Very nice axe. I have two just like that waiting in the queue to get cleaned up and refurbished.
 
Thanks for this info. I had no idea there were so many different types of grinds and, to be honest, I am feeling a bit overwhelmed.
 
It can feel that way at times. But you have a nice ax there so take your time watch a lot of videos do your research and maybe ever fine a $5 ax at the flea market and practice on just to get the feel of it.
 
Back
Top