Pocket knife suggestions to cut up cardboard

C

Confractus

Joined
Jan 18, 2021
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I've been reading a lot about knives and at first couldn't understand why a pocket knife should cost more than $30. Then I found this chart that quantifies the properties of different types of steels.

I am looking to get a pocket knife that will hold the longest edge while cutting up cardboard and the occasional wood slicing for creating tinder. Looking at the Edge retention rankings, it seems like I need one of the super steels (although not the CPM-S110V, S90V, or the M4 due to lack of toughness/corrosion resistance). Elmax and CTS-204P seem to be out as well as they are very expensive. This left me with CTS-XHP, CPM-20CV, and M390. Now I'd like to keep the budget below $100 ($150 max, if necessary). Based on that, I have come up with these models after a long search:

  1. Spyderco C152PGY Chaparral Knife - CTS-XHP, $96

  2. Kershaw 1812BLK Dividend Assisted Flipper Knife - M390, $77

  3. MKM Burnley Fara Slip Joint Folding Knife - M390, $95

  4. Boker Kalashnikov Automatic Knife - CTS-XHP, $70

  5. Kershaw 1776OLSW Link Drop Point Knife - CPM-20CV, $72
Now because choices 4 and 5 only come in crappy green color, I'm left with #1, 2, and 3. Of these, I prefer the style of #1 and #2. Since #2 is out of stock, that leaves me with the Spyderco. Yet, reading online, it seems that the M390 will hold the edge much better than the XHP, so I don't know if I should wait for #2 to come in stock...

Since I'm new to knives and only yesterday bought the Sharpmaker to try sharpening, I have two questions:

  1. Am I missing anything in the assessment of the steels when it comes to edge retention, given my use case? I read some comments where the CTS-XHP is essentially pretty much the same as the CPM-S30V in terms of edge retention

  2. Are the above choices really the best one can do for getting a high quality pocket knife these days? I was willing to get used, but eBay searches turn up pretty much the same prices as elsewhere. If by spending a bit more I'll get a much better knife (durable), that would be worth it. Wondering what the knife veterans have to say here.
 
Welcome! I think for your uses both steels will work quite well. I would go with what ever one you like the looks of better. :) Having owned both kershaw and spyderco though, I would say spydercos quality is better than kershaws. But Kershaw does have a really good warranty service if you should need it.

I think your choices are solid, I think cold steel has decent options in your price range as well. I still prefer spyderco just because they are USA made. I would pick that option out of those 5 listed. Good luck!
 
Ditto on #1 Spydie selection. Edge retention should be fine for what you intend to use this for plus you have the sharpmaker. Kudos for doing your homework. If someone asked me what brand of knife to go with where you plan on putting it to regular use and want the most bang for your buck Spyderco is the way to go.
 
Something as a newer knife buyer you should keep in mind is blade thickness and geometry. A Very thin and finely ground blade can continue to cut in carboard much longer (Read: when duller) than a thicker, more obtusely ground blade. The blade on the Chaparral is quite thin and in my experience will continue to cut media like cardboard far longer than thicker blades even when compared against "superior" steel.

Also the same metric that earns a steel superior edge retention when cutting an abrasive media such as cardboard often directly correlates with a similar increase in difficulty to sharpen. Ultimately the same abrasion resistance that enables longer edge holding also increases the amount of effort effort/time spent when sharpening is needed.

EDIT: I did want to add while I believe the Chaparral is probably the best carboard cutter in your list it does have a relatively small handle(very comfortable but small) which depending on your own hand size may matter in your selection process.
 
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Thank you for the recommendations. I guess I was a bit hesitant about the Spyderco because of the CTS-XHP steel. The rankings place it at the same edge retention as the M390, but for whatever reason, I have seen multiple comments on the M390 edge lasting much longer than the XHP and that the XHP is very close to the S30V or even the D2. Hence the confusion.

The S110V is rated to have the best edge retention, but it's also ranked as one of the least tough steels, less so than AUS 8, so I have steered away from it. I want to be able to use the knife as needed without worrying about ruining a $200-$300 knife. Though in reality, I don't really understand the real world difference between a Toughness ranking of 2 (S110V) vs 6 (XHP).

Knife_Geek said:
Something as a newer knife buyer you should keep in mind is blade thickness and geometry. A Very thin and finely ground blade can continue to cut in carboard much longer (Read: when duller) than a thicker, more obtusely ground blade. The blade on the Chaparral is quite thin and in my experience will continue to cut media like cardboard far longer than thicker blades even when compared against "superior" steel.

Also the same metric that earns a steel superior edge retention when cutting an abrasive media such as cardboard often directly correlates with a similar increase in difficulty to sharpen. Ultimately the same abrasion resistance that enables longer edge holding also increases the amount of effort effort/time spent when sharpening is needed.

EDIT: I did want to add while I believe the Chaparral is probably the best carboard cutter in your list it does have a relatively small handle(very comfortable but small) which depending on your own hand size may matter in your selection process.
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This was an excellent observation about blade geometry, something I did not even consider. You're right, that could make quite a difference, assuming that a thinner geometry doesn't also mean more fragile blade. As for the ergonomics of the handle, I guess I won't find out until I receive it. One of the unfortunate side effects of ordering online...
 
Just a quick comment on why not a box cutter for future responses. I have been using a box cutter up to now, but I don't like it for many reasons: I would like a more substantial/heavier tool in my hand, a longer blade that is not so flexy, something strong enough to cut into the occasional wood and take on camping trips or keep in the car for automotive emergencies. And finally, I think a good knife should save me time and money in having to keep replacing the box cutter blades. Somehow, I don't think the box cutter is as sharp as a good knife. For example, a box cutter has nothing on my Global kitchen knife... Thus, a box cutter will just not cut it.
 
Read up on S110V it's supposed to be able to cut soft-ish material for quite a long time while retaining its edge. There are stories of it chipping, also worth reading but take it with a grain of salt. I'd also recommend K390 as an excellent all around work steel including cutting boxes, but it may be overkill.
 
Confractus said:
Just a quick comment on why not a box cutter for future responses. I have been using a box cutter up to now, but I don't like it for many reasons: I would like a more substantial/heavier tool in my hand, a longer blade that is not so flexy, something strong enough to cut into the occasional wood and take on camping trips or keep in the car for automotive emergencies. And finally, I think a good knife should save me time and money in having to keep replacing the box cutter blades. Somehow, I don't think the box cutter is as sharp as a good knife. For example, a box cutter has nothing on my Global kitchen knife... Thus, a box cutter will just not cut it.
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After a bit your knife, any knife, will dull due to the carboard but the box cutter will keep on cutting without all the time required to bring back a super steel blade edge. It's also incredibly thin which is crucial for material like carboard. Try a side by side cutting up a bunch of carboard between your kitchen knife and box cutter and you'll see what I mean, the thicker knife will have far more drag as it cuts through simply due to the sides of the blade causing friction against the cardboard moving past it. Get a good knife for the wood and camping and get a good box cutter with lots of disposable blades for the cardboard. I think most of us started thinking out like you but most are back to the box cutter for the evil cardboard and enjoying our knives for everything else. :)
 
I would say #5 and #2 as a runner up. Due to grind and blade shape. The hollow grind would excel compaired to a flat grind due to not getting as wedged between the cardboard.

Before you really fall down the knife rabbit hole... my suggestion would be have a stronger focus on intended use (blade shape, grind, ect) than the actual steel. Also have a focus on sharpening as there is a learning curve.
 
Pomsbz said:
After a bit your knife, any knife, will dull due to the carboard but the box cutter will keep on cutting without all the time required to bring back a super steel blade edge. It's also incredibly thin which is crucial for material like carboard. Try a side by side cutting up a bunch of carboard between your kitchen knife and box cutter and you'll see what I mean, the thicker knife will have far more drag as it cuts through simply due to the sides of the blade causing friction against the cardboard moving past it. Get a good knife for the wood and camping and get a good box cutter with lots of disposable blades for the cardboard. I think most of us started thinking out like you but most are back to the box cutter for the evil cardboard and enjoying our knives for everything else. :)
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This is the way. :D
 
I once worked in a warehouse where all I did was cut open boxes (pallets at a time).
There's no knife on this planet that would have lasted more than an hour.
I know this because I went through blades (two sides) like I was eating Doritos.
Get a box cutter and use the rest of yer cash for a nice knife.
 
I wouldn't use a slipjoint for lots of cardboard, just to be extra safe you want a lock. Honestly for cardboard cutting an opinel might be the next best to a razor utility knife bc the blade stock is so thin. You will be sharpening any knife if you cut lots of cardboard so getting one that is harder to sharpen may actually be frustrating.
 
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Your first post sure shows that you have done your homework regarding steels, knife models and sharpening theory, which is great.

But this particular post worries me:
Confractus said:
... I would like a more substantial/heavier tool in my hand, a longer blade that is not so flexy, something strong enough to cut into the occasional wood and take on camping trips or keep in the car for automotive emergencies...
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Carboard cutting + wood cutting + automotive emergencies... This is a too wide spectrum to cover with a single tool.
  • Carboard cutting with the chaparral, ok, fine.
  • Wood cutting, anytime you want to notch wood, you will be pushing hard and even making feathersticks requires a fair amount of force. A roundish hand filling handle is a better plan. Pukko style if you want. A cheap MORA is awesome for this (scandi grind).
  • Automotive emergencies (repairs)will require, at most, a 1% cutting chores compared to prying, loosening bolts, nuts, slotted heads, philips heads, opening clamps, etc. In truth, anything automotive will probably require a fair amount of tools to do ANY knid of trail repair. You are much better off with a Leatherman or SAK (even though they don't have pliers) than a single blade slicer knife.
  • Automotive emergencies (cutting seat belts, extracting someone from a burning car about to blow up or sink in a river) will benefit from a serrated blade and window punch. Think Spyderco Assist or SAK Rescue Tool. At the very least Spyderco Rescue (but it lacks a window punch).

My suggestion is that you get the Chaparral and use it as an EDC and then buy assorted dedicated tools to keep in your car.

Mikel
 
A box cutter or utility knife is best for sure. My personal favorite is the good old Stanley non retractable one. But it requires a sheath.

Next best cardboard knife is a Dexter Russel net knife. The thin serated blade will cut miles of cardboard before it needs to be sharpened. Then it just needs to have the back rubbed flat on a stone.
 
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