Polish and scratch removal from high carbon steel

Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Messages
11
Hello well here is my problem...... A couple years ago my grandpa made me a hunting knife out of a old saw mill blade as my grandpa is over 70 years old he did a amazing job making it but i am finding it extremely hard to sharpen it ( to be expected ) as it is extremely hard metal but my main problem i cannot get the rust spots to go away the whole knife is hand made and was a gift from a loved one so i am trying as hard as i can to keep it in good condition. I've read that safflower oil can help keep rust away.. is that true? And how can i get rid of the scratches and rust spots out and polish the blade? I've already had to even the tang out by the hilt because it was way uneven and the actual edge of the blade didn't start till about a inch and a half from the knuckle guard the metal was so hard i destroyed a brand new bastard file when i fixed it. so if the metal is that hard how in the Hell can i make this knife shine and remove the ugly ass scratches that are on the blade without ruining it? like i said this knife is 1 of a kind and very sentimental to me as my grandpa has passed away since making me the knife...... PLEASE HELP ME I DON'T WANT THIS KNIFE DAMAGED ANY MORE THAN IT ALREADY IS

 
Last edited:
OK, we need a little help from you.
What are your knifemaking skills?
What equipment do you have?
Clearer photos, especially of the rust and scratches would help.


Here is some basic info:
Hand sand the blade with silicon carbide wet-or-dry paper ( 3M or Rhynowet). Start with 120 grit and work up through 1000 grit or higher. The steps should be 120,220,400,800,1000,2000,2500. Use a block of hard wood as a backer for the paper, and lubricate the blade when sanding with a few drops of oil. You can use 10W30, WD40, Penetrating oil, mineral oil, or any light oil. Don't use vegetable oils and seed oils.
Sand smoothly until all the scratches are gone. Change the paper often to keep fresh grit working. I always say, "Use it like it was free!" I use a 2X4" hardwood block and cut the paper to 2X5.5". That makes it easy to hold the paper on the block with a rubber band. I like the big fat bands that asparagus come bundled with. The green grocer will probably give you a few. Make the sanding strokes going up and down on the 120 grit, and then down the length of the blade on the 220 grit. Switch back to up and down for 400 grit. After you are done with 400 grit, do all the rest of the grits with strokes going down the blade from guard to tip in strokes. Don't sand back and forth.

After the blade is sanded smooth, tape it up except about 1/4" from the edge. Now you can sharpen it. Use a diamond plate or good whetstone. Start with a coarse or medium grit and when the edge is smooth and starting to feel sharp, switch to a fine stone. When the edge is done, remove the tape and, if necessary, clean up the blade one last time with the finest grit sandpaper you used.

When completely sanded to your desired smoothness, and sharpened, oil with a good knife blade or gun oil. If you don't have one, use any light oil like 3in1. DO NOT USE WD40 to protect a blade. Clean the knife and re-oil after each use and it should stay good for many years. Inspect it every six months or so to look for any new rust.
Another great blade protection oil/wax is Renaissance wax is. It seems rather pricy, but a small can will last 10 years of maintenance on all your knives. I keep a soft cotton cloth in a zip-lock bag and put a little Renaissance wax on it each time I clean my knives. The cloth will stay impregnated and do many knifes or a quick touch-up.

Final comment:
No amount of sanding and maintenance will make a difference if the knife is stored poorly. Store in a clean and dry place. do not store in a leather sheath. A padded knife case or wrapped in an old towel is good. Wipe the blade down with the Renaissance cloth every time you handle the knife.....especially if you were touching the blade. A wipe down should be the last thing you do every time you put it away.
 
On an old & sentimental knife like this, I wouldn't even worry about trying to make it 'shine' like new anymore. The dark grey/black patina, and even scratching and old pitting, is part of the history of that knife, and isn't harming the steel at all. Only the red rust (if any is present) should be cleaned off. That can be done by scrubbing the blade with some very fine steel wool (#0000) and WD-40 or mineral oil.

If you're really determined to make it mirror-polished (like new) again, the only effective way would be to use a tight sequence of sanding grits to get it done, up through 2000+ grit at least. I get the impression you really don't want to alter the blade that much ("I DON'T WANT THIS KNIFE DAMAGED ANY MORE THAN IT ALREADY IS"), so I personally wouldn't take it that far. Without some experience in doing it, results are often disappointing when it's not done fully and correctly.


David
 
OK, we need a little help from you.
What are your knifemaking skills?
What equipment do you have?
Clearer photos, especially of the rust and scratches would help.



Well my skills in knife making is 0 but i pride myself on how well i sharpen and te meticulous care i try to give to my knifes my grandpa is the one who taught me everything i know about knife care but altimers and parkinsons disease stopped him from teaching me how to make the knifes but i have quite a bit of patience when it comes to my knifes especially this one ie i spent a month with a fine diamond stone to get the edge i wanted on it and i will try to take some better pics of it i also have 1 more problem his maker marks are right by the guard and is starting to get dark on it and they are a little bit shallow and i don't want to remove them is it advisable to take a engraver and deepen the maker marks a little bit? And as for tools i don't have much at all just a fine diamond stone and a porcelain stone really that's about all i have for tools that would be logical for knifes i recently moved and lost alot of stuff
 






sorry its really hard to get a pic that doesn't have a.crap ton of glare but there is a bunch of black dots all over the blade and on one side almost looks like it got discoloured from heat but i have no idea how it happened i haven't have.anything hot near it
 
Last edited:
That looks like it should sand out fairly easily. I would not think the makers mark is a worry, but go easy in that area. I would NOT try and deepen it. You need to get a medium diamond stone, and the one you have may need replacing because it is likely worn out from using a fine stone to do a coarse/medium stone task. I really like the 10X3" DMT double sided "DuoSharp" bench stone unit.
 
That looks like it should sand out fairly easily. I would not think the makers mark is a worry, but go easy in that area. I would NOT try and deepen it. You need to get a medium diamond stone, and the one you have may need replacing because it is likely worn out from using a fine stone to do a coarse/medium stone task. I really like the 10X3" DMT double sided "DuoSharp" bench stone unit.

Ok so i took a piece of porcelain to the blade and it buffer all but the most deep scratches out and it took most of the little black holes or dots or what ever they were i was thinking a real good buffing and ittl look just as good if not better than when i first got it .... what is a good tech for buffing? what is the best type of fabric or cloth to use and should i use some sort of oil or water while buffing it? Btw i will be doin this by hand as i have no power tools haha
 
Back
Top