Polished better than Patina or Etch?

snippy

snippy

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Apr 1, 2014
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I know that it is best to leave the protective coating on my BK-9 but I am getting closer to stripping my "Babe"

I really love the look of the blue/bleach method and some of the mustard and hot sauce patinas are beautiful.

My question is: Do these methods open pores that increase the chance of oxidation? I'm thinking that highly polished closes the grain and makes the blade resistant to rust.

Do I have it right?

I know that it will take many many hours to make my BK-9 a mirror, but I do have the time. And it will still be a user as she is my #1.

Any thoughts or advice?

Much appreciated and thanks in advance.

Eric (beckerhead in training)
 
The less scratches there are the less chance rust has of taking hold. Polished will rust less, I'm pretty sure. Daizee had a good explanation for me when I modded my 11 and then my Machax. My 9 has been stripped; even though I clean and oil it I'm always chasing rust on that thing. My old Camillus 2 didn't have grind marks under the coating and even though I've used it hard and put it away wet (OK, not wet, but bare minimum maintenance) it doesn't seem to catch the rust like the 9. My modded 11 I took to 600 W/D and it's getting a natural patina, but no rust. When I have some time and feel like wasting an afternoon, I plan on polishing my 9, or at least sanding out the grind marks. The 9 and 2 are the two I've had the longest, and I actually wondered if Camillus used a slightly different steel because it didn't rust at all, and the 9 was rusting the day after I stripped it. I was told they did not. Let's see some pictures when you're done.
 
granitestateofmind said:
The less scratches there are the less chance rust has of taking hold. Polished will rust less, I'm pretty sure. Daizee had a good explanation for me when I modded my 11 and then my Machax. My 9 has been stripped; even though I clean and oil it I'm always chasing rust on that thing. My old Camillus 2 didn't have grind marks under the coating and even though I've used it hard and put it away wet (OK, not wet, but bare minimum maintenance) it doesn't seem to catch the rust like the 9. My modded 11 I took to 600 W/D and it's getting a natural patina, but no rust. When I have some time and feel like wasting an afternoon, I plan on polishing my 9, or at least sanding out the grind marks. The 9 and 2 are the two I've had the longest, and I actually wondered if Camillus used a slightly different steel because it didn't rust at all, and the 9 was rusting the day after I stripped it. I was told they did not. Let's see some pictures when you're done.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info and I think that I am going to polish her up.

I've been searching for pictures of polished 9's and I see some really nice ones but can't find a "mirror" 9er. This inspires me to create the most polished 9 ever seen.

I may fail but pics will be posted.

Eric
 
Higher polish means less surface area which means less area for moisture/debris to accumulate and accelerate oxidation. Non stainless steels with a high polish don't corrode as quickly as non stainless blades with a rougher finish. Even among stainless steels this is the case. Look at bead blasted 8cr13mov vs satin finished. Bead blasted will rust when under the same conditions satin/mirror finished won't.

If you take the finish to a high polish it will be more difficult to force a patina as well. This is a simple way to show the increased corrosion resistance of a high polish finish.
 
As far as the polishing process goes, obviously you want to start with a low grit and work up. Try and keep the difference in grits as small as possible. This will reduce the time you have to spend on each grit and it might not speed up the overall process but it will prevent boredom from being on one step for a long time.

The other key is to 90 go degrees to the last pass. For example, the grind lines will run perpendicular to the spine/edge so your first stage of sanding will be parallel to the edge/spine. What this does is allow you to differentiate between the lines you're removing and the lines you're creating. When you don't see vertical lines anymore (look very closely) then you can switch grits and sand across your sanding marks from the last stage at a right angle, or at least a different angle. A 45 degree would work fine too, as long as it's an obviously different angle. And use a sanding block for a flat surface with even pressure. If you just hold the paper in your hand your fingers will create waves in the finish.
 
tj - thanks for the link. I don't know how I missed that one. That thing is incredible!

Granite, Fang, Bighoss - thanks for the tips on polishing the tool marks out of the Beckers. I've made a couple of attempts but never had satisfctory results. Hopefully this will change that.:thumbup:
 
By itself, an etched blade has the potential to rust more easily. This is because it has more "nooks and crannies" that can trap dirt, grime and moisture. However, this is partly offset by the fact that the etched area is typically given a final bluing in order to make it stand out more, at least in the case of the blue-bleach method. The cold bluing provides a good amount of protection against rust.

That's the case with etching; however, I don't believe that a patina will cause a blade to rust more easily. In fact, the reverse tends to be true. A patina is essentially a layer of tarnish that forms on the surface of the blade as natural acids come into contact with it. That layer of tarnish gives the blade an antique appearance, yet it also provides a measure of protection against rust. That's why many of us had grandfathers who would take a brand new carbon steel pocket knife, stab it into a potato, and then leave it overnight. When asked why, the answer was typically, "Because it protects it from rust." They were forcing a patina for rust protection.

The issue I have with polished carbon steel is that I find I have to work hard to keep it from taking a patina. Personally, I like patinas, so I just go ahead and force one or let the steel take one naturally, rather than try to keep it polished. Because I like the appearance, because it's lower maintenance and because it provides a measure of protection against rust, I view it as a win on all counts. If I want a shiny blade, I get stainless.

That's my experience and my preference. Of course, yours may vary. I'm sure it will be a fun mod either way. Enjoy.
 
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The other folks covered it pretty well - the rougher a surface is, the quicker it will rust.

There's nothing stopping you from mirror-polishing a blade and then putting a patina on it.
 
I would not go with a complete mirror because the upkeep is horrible. Any time you use it and cut any type of food or damp or sappy wood, it starts to patina. Then you have to buff it back out.

I would however recommend getting it close to a mirror finish and putting a patina on it like James said.
 
did somebody say polished becker? I thought this thread needed some pics.... :D

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