Predator Machete!

Bill Siegle

Bill Siegle

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Messages
6,745
Over the years not2sharp not2sharp has several times encouraged me to make a Predator Machete. I’ve resisted due to not being ready to take on the grinds and most importantly the large heat treating challenge. Well the other day I decided to try my hand at it 😎 I used BK&T scales to speed things along and because quite honestly, they’re AWESOME grips! I used 1/4in 5160 for blade stock. All the bevels and some tang drilling, got weight down to a very functional 30oz. The blade is 14 7/8in tip to scale and 20 5/8in overall. I ground the spine to “almost sharp”. The clip is not sharpened either. I may change that later but for now the cool lines are enough 👍 I’m really happy with how this feels in the hand! It’s no light weight grass slasher but it is definitely a very usable tool especially for northern climates.

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Sharpened or unsharpened, what would you prefer on this?

I always saw this as a double edged machete with a fine forward cutting edge (green vegetation, self-defense, general utility) and a slightly sturdier top edge and swedge that is set up for lite chopping (Sticks, twigs stuff up to about 1” in diameter). Similar to the Baryonyx machete, or any number of similar tools. The handle should be comfortable in both positions perhaps with forward grip (the Crain version had a sub-hilt grip) for the bottom edge and a more rearward grip ( held between the sub-hilt and pommel) for the top chopping edge. The user inverts the knife depending on the use. Held one way you lock your index finger around the trigger shaped sub-hilt, held upside down you rest your thumb on the sloped back of the same protrusion. The hand might only be an inch or two further back, but that would be enough to shift the balance and point of percussion to the user‘s advantage.

Let’s hear your thoughts.

n2s
 
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I’ve always felt the original being sharpened all the way around was mostly Hollywood fantasy. Not that there’s anything really wrong with that though. Gladiators need their Gladius!!!! 😎 The grinds on Jack Crain’s originals added dramatic lines but at their core, served to lighten up the blade to a reasonably useful tool. I handled one for a few minutes years ago. Awe inspiring design and finish but not weighted like a traditional machete. Still felt very useful. I didn’t feel the subhilt handle was built for an upside down grip. I imagine the sharp spine would be used for a back swing in a combat scenario. Maybe an upswing into a branch or two? I like the concept of two distinct types of edges but I’ve rarely felt the need as in my area, a more general purpose main edge serves well. I’d imagine a more diverse environment might make two types of edges more appealing. Now the version I’ve made using the BK&T scales would work upside down pretty well. For my personal use, I’d go sharp main edge and semi sharp clip. Cool lines and edges I’m used to 😁 I keep thinking about handle design for another one and have a couple concepts in mind but I’m giving it some time as I am not going to make a dozen of these trying every idea 😜
 
Bill, I realize that Jack Crain had set out to build a movie star rather than a practical knife. I liked everything about the blade except for the small transition between the forward swedge and the back edge. The area is usually left as a flat cut step up when it should be a small transition similar to the one used on the Tracker knife (on a tracker it works well for making feather sticks). As for the handle I always felt a straighter sub-hilt with flared pommel shape would be better (something shaped like the traditional half-horse half-alligator Bowie pommel).

Anyway I am confident that you will come up with a comfortable handle design.

N2s
 
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