Primal/tactical SERE knife and after-training report

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Apr 12, 2006
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I originally posted this in the Custom and Handmade knife subforum, but given the kind of work the customer put this through, I thought it also appropriate here.

My original post on the subject:

I was contacted by a flight engineer on an AC-130 gunship about a knife to carry with him. He's about to go do his SERE training and wanted a good knife to take, as well as just general usage. He gave me some general parameters of what he was looking for and a blade size, 7". I sent him a quick sketch:

IMG_1855.jpg


He approved and I got busy. I started with 3/4" round 5160 and forged this:

alex.jpg


I cleaned up the profile and it looked much more like the sketch, even though I didn't have to take off much steel. After cleanup grinding:

alex1.jpg


I soaked it in vinegar to eat the scale off the blade, filed the bevels, and triple hardened it in veggie oil:

alex2.jpg


After tempering three times and cleanup, I used a new style of cord wrap I've been working on. It uses an underlay and an overlay of contrasting parachute cord, the underlay intact to build up the size of the handle appropriately and the overlay stipped of its core cords to lay flatter. The inspiration for this style of wrap came from a Mongol saber I saw recently in a museum exhibit on Ghengis Khan. I looked at it closely and fixed in my mind how it looked, then played around with paracrod until I figured it out. Fairly simple, really. After each layer is wrapped, it is sealed in cyanoacrylate (superglue), which wicks down into the fibers and hardens, forming a solid composite material in place.

In this case, the underlay is olive drab and the overlay is desert tan. After that, a Kydex sheath with a pair of MOLLE clips, sharpening, and it's in the mail on its way to him.

alex6.jpg


alex7.jpg


alex5.jpg


The spine on this is 1/4" thick, yet because it's forged into one long bevel (essentially a full flat grind, though it's forged and not ground), it still has a bevel angle that cuts well.

I'm looking forward to hearing how this knife does with the SERE training. Several more in this basic style are in the works for some Marines. :)


And now the after-report:


The airman who ordered this knife completed his SERE training. With his permission, here's what he told me about using it:



"Ok, so im back from SERE school and it was rough. Learned alot though. My wife sent me the knife and out of the box i thought it was awsome. Sheath is very cool and functional. knife stays well with tension. The clips work very well on a web belt as well as MOLLE attachments on my vest. The knife itself is very beefy. I was not able to take pictures because alot of the training is classified and i was not able to bring a camera. I can say that the knife worked like a dream. We had many tasks during the training that involved a good knife. They issued us all bolt knives but i chose to use yours even though i still had to lug around the bolt knife as well. cutting tree bows down was very easy. I probobly cut down about 150 bows for shelters and camo. We also cut down alot of tree bolts for fires. we used large branches to beat the knife through the the tree bolts to have smaller pieces and the knife went through like butter. finished way faster than the guys with the bolt knifes. probobly went through about 20 bolts of wood. the tip worked real well for breaking down wood too. I also used the kinfe to start fires with a metal match and cut down alot of brush while evading. The knife worked like a dream and i had alot of guys ask where i got it so your cards went to good homes. Im sure you will get a few calls. This knife is definately staying in my helmet bag when i fly. Great knife. email me with any specific questions you have. Im still telling alot of people about it. Oh and the knife is still as sharp as it was when i got it in the mail. Thanks again. "



I had to look up that a "bolt knife" is the USAF-issued survival knife, named that for it's bolt head-shaped pommel. I also hadn't heard the term "tree bolt", but he sent some pictures to show me.



DSC02854.jpg




DSC02855.jpg




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Folks, I was surprised to see his comment about the blade being as sharp as when he got it after putting it through the kind of work he described. I was hoping it would serve him well, but this is by far the hardest use one of my little blades has seen and it performed better than I had expected. That's why I made that part bold. :D I'm pretty proud to have made a blade that would do that well.



I asked him about how the handle had been both in comfort and in durability. His response: "I really liked the handle wrap as well. It fit good in my hand even when i wore gloves. It was very cold so we wore nomex flight gloves as well as calf skin leather gloves. Very good grip. also the sheath worked very well and was very quiet with the knife in as well which was good because we had to do alot of evading."



A couple of pics he sent of it on his bag:



DSC02853.jpg




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This is not the last primal/tactical knife I will be making. I have four in the works for active-duty military and hope to have more serving our armed forces in the future.
 
Grata on an excellent knife you made! I remember this when you first posted it. Glad the review came back as it did.

Well done sir
 
Congrats on your (and your client's) success - SERE is *not* as easy as it sounds.... A good knife is invaluable (preaching to the Choir here.....) and the designs need to be intelligently thought out and executed with true craftsmanship. Well done!!!

I hope you're able to continue getting orders and putting excellent tools in the hands of those who need 'em.
 
In the context a bolt simply refers to a piece of wood that has been processed to the required size for your purposes. "Bolting" usually refers to the splitting of a piece of wood with the tip of the knife, seen in the photo, though in broad terms refers to processing a stock piece of wood down to a needed size. A couple of techniques are used, like split-batoning and cross-grain batoning. I think your blade design is very good for the task, and that contoured 1/4th inch 5160 is great. For multitask handles, I usually find simple is better, especially when gloves come into the picture. I'd like to see a 5 inch version in 3/16ths with an exposed tang, and maybe some kind of liner material inside of the parachute cord to bulk up the grip. While the bolt knife isn't ideal, the techniques they teach are well within the capabilities of the issued knife, so to hear that your design was more efficient is a good indicator. Glad the kydex worked out.

PS, I don't know if you've seen it yet, but if you'd like to catch a glimpse into the school, Disco did a mini-series on a class. It's called Survival School on Hulu.
 
Nice work, like the heavy duty superglue paracord sealing.

I would have thought that carrying the knife tip down would be less likely to accidentally snag and fall out? Last thing you would want when evading is to lose your blade!
 
Aircrew can sometimes have funky mounting requirements based on all the 'stuff' they're wearing-flightsuit, vest, headset, all the equipment they are working in and around in the aircraft, the position in which they are sitting, yadda yadda yadda.
 
Thank y'all!

fmajor007 - Yeah, from what little I've read on it, saying SERE is "rough" is likes saying the Titanic took on a little water. :eek:

Payette - This does have an underlayer of paracord beneath the outer wrap. The underlay still has its core, while the outerlay has been stripped. It builds it up fairly well to fit the hand. This one's underlay is olive drab, so it isn't showing up through the overlay much - which is kind of the idea on this one. :) It shows up a lot more with a neon orange underlay and black overlay!

Since I'm anchoring the wrap through a hole in the butt of the tang, I'm not sure how I would approach leaving an exposed butt with this kind of a wrap. :confused: I'll think about it.

Daniel - This kind of carry method is something I've seen in fiction various places, but I think it's the first in my limited experience that I've seen it on an actual serviceman's gear. I know that this particular sheath was a solid, tight fit when I sent it and he'd be breaking his spine with a jolt hard enough to knock the blade loose. I was a bit surprised to see it set up that way, but not too much. It's about equally accessible with either hand, though I see it as a left-handed crossdraw setup. I'm going to ask him about it.
 
You should frequent the outdoor forums more often man, your work fits in well around here!

really nice work..........anyone have a pic of the "bolt knives" that were issued, its buggin me.
 
Brad "the butcher";10475611 said:
You should frequent the outdoor forums more often man, your work fits in well around here!

really nice work..........anyone have a pic of the "bolt knives" that were issued, its buggin me.

They're the standard USAF Pilot's Survival Knife. It has a hex-shaped pommel, hence the "bolt" name. A clip point, leather-stack handle, finger-guards, nice leather sheath complete w/sharpening stone pouch.

Here's a linky:

f123.jpg


It's an older pic, but the knifes not changed (AFAIK)..... I'm not/wasn't an Air Force guy, but the bolt-knives are pretty common among pilots.
 
Storm Crow, your knife will serve the young Flight Engineer well! And It's much better than the issued "survival knife!" In my day as an AC-130H Spectre Gunship Sensor Operator, I carried, for the most part, a Randall Model 1 with a 6" carbon steel blade...along with a Buck 112 that had a modified handle and the ubiquitous Swiss Army Knife.

Thanks for supporting the AF Special Operations guys, sir!

Best Regards,
Ron
 
Storm Crow, your knife will serve the young Flight Engineer well! And It's much better than the issued "survival knife!" In my day as an AC-130H Spectre Gunship Sensor Operator, I carried, for the most part, a Randall Model 1 with a 6" carbon steel blade...along with a Buck 112 that had a modified handle and the ubiquitous Swiss Army Knife.

Thanks for supporting the AF Special Operations guys, sir!

Best Regards,
Ron

Ron - Thanks for supporting us grunts-on-the-ground!!! Gotta luv 'Puff!!!!
 
You're quite welcome, sir! Been retired for almost 20 years now, but recently returned from Iraq, where I was helping to provide Airborne surveillance for our folks there (38 months between Feb. 05 and Dec. 11).

Regards,
Ron
 
Brad - Thanks, I may hang around more. I can only really contribute about blades, though. Not able to get out and camp more frequently than once every few years, sadly.

rwc53 - I'm very grateful to all of our servicemembers, and try to support them by providing quality tools for their use when I am able to. I'm pleased to say that I have had blades carried by soldiers, airmen, and soon to be carried by Marines as well. For everyone who has served our country, thank you!
 
All right, the airman said this:

"The way i have it set up on my pack is basically ease. I made sure the retention on the sheath was adequite first. It was as it never fell out. It is easier to pull the knife down out of the sheath rather than up and towards your head and face. And yes, it is easier to draw with both hands as i am a lefty.

As for splitting the wood with the tip, that is to get finer pieces to start the fire. We dont hit the butt but actually grasp the knife with the blade facing outward and the piece of wood. then together we thrust down pushing the blade basically through the piece splitting it un half. its used mainly for small fires as a last resort while evading captors. something you can burn small under a poncho or jacket for heat. "

He sent a video of splitting with the tip, just with the force of his hand. I'll see if I can get permission from him to put it on Youtube.
 
yup, it's a real practical method. I've seen a few people using it in videos for their finer one-stick fires as well.
 
Impressive looking piece of work. As a knife newcomer, what do you call / how do you describe the rough looking texture on the blade?
 
Will_Power - Forge finish is the term I use. It's the texture left from the scale during the process of forging it to shape. After forging, I soak it in vinegar overnight, which eats the scale off. After rinsing it down, it looks like this. A good forge finish shows the smith's skill with the hammer and will not have a lot of blatant hammer marks.

You would not believe the number of people who walk up to my table at the gun show and eaither say, "Where'd you get all them old blades?" or "Is that D'mascus?" The worst was one fellow who walked up, looked at them and stated, "D'mascus!" I explained that it was forge finished and what that meant. He then said, "Ah, fake D'mascus!" I showed considerable restraint. :D

I do satin finished blades, but it's been a long time since I've made one. I really like the forge finish for its aesthetics, durability, and ease of maintenance.
 
'rough forged finish' or 'hammer marks' for the most part.


Really, could you just go away. You've posted four blathering replies that are only paying lip service to your own inflated ego.

Storm Crow has made a primal style knife that was used in a modern way.

That is interesting, you PFR are not.


Leadfoot
 
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