problem with my leather sheaths

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Dec 10, 2013
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so i used black dye on my leather sheaths, but when they dried, they turned purple, did i not use enough? or did it have a weird reaction to the leather? i dont know
 
What technique did you use? I quickly switched over to dip-dying for leather due to inconsistencies in the finish when brushing on.

--NB
 
Black is notoriously the most challenging color to achieve while dying leather. I do not claim to know how specific tanning methods affect the quality of the finished dye, but you should be using vegetable tanned leather for knife sheaths. Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye in "black" and their alcohol based dye in "USMC Black" are both very good dyes and produce the black color that I desire.

Slightly dampen, or case, the leather before dying. Too light of an application may be the cause of the purple tint. Multiple applications or a more thorough wetting with dye may increase your success.

Mike L.
 
Black is notoriously the most challenging color to achieve while dying leather. I do not claim to know how specific tanning methods affect the quality of the finished dye, but you should be using vegetable tanned leather for knife sheaths. Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye in "black" and their alcohol based dye in "USMC Black" are both very good dyes and produce the black color that I desire.

Slightly dampen, or case, the leather before dying. Too light of an application may be the cause of the purple tint. Multiple applications or a more thorough wetting with dye may increase your success.

Mike L.

+1 especially the Feibings dye for black anyway
 
LOL! Did you ever notice some guys have the same problem with their hair dye?
 
I have read that some people put another color on first to help with the black.

One thing I have experimented with and the color turned out very nicely is vinegar black or vinegroon. I made it myself by dissolving steel wool in vinegar until no more would dissolve. There is a lot of stuff out there about this and it was pretty simple. This is not a dye but a chemical reaction with the tannins in vegetable tanned leather. I was convinced that it worked by dipping a scrap of leather in it and at first nothing, but then as the reaction completes the black just fades in.

Plus it adds one more element to a DIY project that is also DIY. It was fun not only making the sheath, but the "dye" used on it, as well. There is a lot of information out there on this and it was fun. Safety note: do NOT tightly seal the jar you make it in, as it produces gasses and pressure if you do.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/985789-Leather-Dye-Cure-Time

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/991135-vinegroon-question
 
I used Rit dye, some guys said the powder form of that would work. i mixed it in hot water and painted it on, i put several coats on too, i'll try to put another coat on it tomorrow.
 
One thing I have experimented with and the color turned out very nicely is vinegar black or vinegroon.

This is supposed to be the most "pure" black dye achievable on the various leather working forums, but I have not tried it. For simplicity, I use the Fiebing's dyes.

Mike L.
 
I used Rit dye, some guys said the powder form of that would work. i mixed it in hot water and painted it on, i put several coats on too, i'll try to put another coat on it tomorrow.

Didn't you have another board post where you said you used RIT dye and everyone replied that RIT was not for leather? If not, then OK.

RIT is not designed to dye leather despite what "some guys" said. Applying another coat will not produce a desirable color compared to dyes which are designed for leather. There's no wonder that your result is purple. Applying another coat will not improve your results very much.

Use vegetable tanned leather with quality leather dyes and you will obtain desirable results.

Mike L.
 
This is supposed to be the most "pure" black dye achievable on the various leather working forums, but I have not tried it. For simplicity, I use the Fiebing's dyes.

Mike L.

You just have to remember to neutralize the vinegar or it will break down the leather over time.
 
This is supposed to be the most "pure" black dye achievable on the various leather working forums, but I have not tried it. For simplicity, I use the Fiebing's dyes.

Mike L.

Didn't you have another board post where you said you used RIT dye and everyone replied that RIT was not for leather? If not, then OK.

RIT is not designed to dye leather despite what "some guys" said. Applying another coat will not produce a desirable color compared to dyes which are designed for leather. There's no wonder that your result is purple. Applying another coat will not improve your results very much.

Use vegetable tanned leather with quality leather dyes and you will obtain desirable results.

Mike L.

These are very good points. Part of the problem is that RIT dye is generally intended for clothing, and in that case, the color being a little "off" is less noticeable. You want a quality leather dye like Fiebings, as it is what is called a "true" or "positive" black. The reason some dyes look purple or in some cases green, is because of the colors that are mixed to get that "black." A positive black will not appear to be any other color. That is the reason that the vinegar concoction is so positive. It achieves that color by chemical reaction, not mixing colors.

You just have to remember to neutralize the vinegar or it will break down the leather over time.

Another good point. A weak ammonia solution, using household ammonia, followed by a quick water rinse, is one of the easiest ways to do it.

Sam :thumbup:
 
Fiebings leather dye. Put on navy blue first, then black. I learned that from a Charles Ochs video and it even works over finished leather using the spirit based dye.
 
Charlie Ochs told me that when he wants to dye a sheath black, he first dyes it blue. Works for him as I have seen several of his black sheaths, and they are definitely black. John
 
I buy Fiebings black by the quart but you can a 4 ounce plastic bottle from knife supply companies to try. I have never had to apply a second coat of black using a wool dauber and a child's wood handled paintbrush to get in cracks. I have never tried using blue first but I have never seen the need...my sheaths are black as you can get. I use 9 ounce vegetable tanned cowhide and the dye works perfectly, at least for me.
 
I'll add my +1 to Fiebings.

But having read "the other thread", I know why the OP tried RIT. I think it's a weak reason, but he doesn't want to mail order it and pay for shipping... wants something he can buy locally, and where he lives there are apparently no leather stores or shoe repair shops.
 
I will add my .02 and agree with Fiebings dye. I use it on anything I make out of leather that needs to be dyed black. You can angelus dye as well. I have heard that they make a good dye as well. I have not tried there black. But I have tried a few of there other colors and liked them. And making vinagroon took me about a month. Look it up on the net. It is cheap to make and easy. There are some extra steps to it though. Like an above post stated you have to neutralize it. But it will give you a black piece of leather.
 
Fiebings here too. I'm using their spirit based stuff and it comes out black black. Two coats.

Springfield Leather has a video on using black Fiebings. They mix a little leather conditioner in with the dye. I trust those guys for sure.
 
Just created by first leather sheath.....black. I think it turned out pretty good. Just used the Fiebing's USMC black - two coats. Don't forget to finish it will something as well. Makes a big difference.

Apparently I can't add photos so I can't show you what I'm talking about....how dumb is that.
 
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