Problem with sharpening Native with Sharpmaker.

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Dec 27, 2005
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Please, help me. Please, forgive me for my ascent, this is my second language.
I am new to knife hobby. It started about three month ago. I bought few knives, Sharpmaker, and ultra-fine hones. I watched DVD couple of times the first day I received it and sharpened couples Swiss army knives, one Zippo gent knife and Emerson Traveler AUS8 steel. All of them come out very sharp, I can shave hairs or split a peper. Later I bought BM Grip 551 with 440C and sharpened it without any problem but I had to regrind back bevel to 30 degrees and it did not take much time.
I am using Sal’s technique with Sharpmaker. After each step, I am testing per his instructions. In addition, I do magic marker trick when I sharpen knives first time, thanks to you people. On bladeforums, I found a lot of valuable information. I am reading forums for few hours every day.
I bought Native and could not wait for this knife to get dull to sharpen it. I expected sharpening process to be longer because of S30V blade steel and very sharp blade.
I used it for about a month I cut a few cardboard boxes, but mostly plastic bags, envelopes, some food. Than I noticed, it is not as sharp as it used to be so it is time to sharpen.
I set up my Sharpmaker on 30 degrees; put magic marker on the edge and after few strokes it is became clear that back bevel is 30 degrees. I decided to sharpen this knife at 30 degrees and than put few strokes on ultra-fine stones at 40 degrees, I read about this method on BF, and I wanted to try. It is came out OK, at least I felt this way.
The next day I demonstrated resharpen knife to my friend and I noticed that only part of edge could shave, so I decided to resharpen it again and put 40 degrees edge.
I followed instructions, put many strokes but I was not able to pass test on step 3 – shave even after more than hundred strokes on the corner of fine stone.
I set up 30 degrees again and first time used technique from Joe Talmadge “Sharpening FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS”. It took about a hundred strokes on the grey stone to get a burr along all edge, than I change side and grind until I got a burr on second side and than I alternate from one stick to the other between strokes, and turned stones to work on flat sides. Than I reset grey stones to 40 degrees, got burr on first side, switched to second side, got burr, alternate sides, turn stone to use flats. I tried to get a burr on flats, but I was not able get a burr, so I made about hundred strokes, cut a piece of paper (test on the step #2), and switched to corners of fine stones. I was able to get a tiny burr, switched to second side, and got a burr, alternate strokes. It did not shave well. I turned fine stones to work on flats, I did many strokes, but it did not get any better.
The next day I started all over again but I was not able even get a burr after more than two hundred strokes on each side. Every time I sharpen this knife, I am getting worse result.
During these attempts, I removed a lot of steel and I washed stones 3 times.
It seems to me the edge is chipping, I have 7X eye loupe and I was not able see anything verify chipping. I searched forums for similar problems. It looks like nobody had a problem with S30V and Sharpmaker. I do not know what to do the next and I hate an idea send it to Spyderco.
Thank you,
Roman
 
bh49 said:
I set up 30 degrees again and first time used technique from Joe Talmadge “Sharpening FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS”. It took about a hundred strokes on the grey stone to get a burr along all edge, than I change side and grind until I got a burr on second side and than I alternate from one stick to the other between strokes, and turned stones to work on flat sides. Than I reset grey stones to 40 degrees, got burr on first side, switched to second side, got burr, alternate sides, turn stone to use flats. I tried to get a burr on flats, but I was not able get a burr, so I made about hundred strokes, cut a piece of paper (test on the step #2), and switched to corners of fine stones.

When you move from the corners to the flats you should not be trying to get a burr, as this is only for rough shaping, making sure the bevels meet. When you move to honing, actually trying to get full sharpness, you are no longer looking for a burr but a crisp and even edge. The flats are basically a refinement, when using them at the same angle you only need a few passes, if this doesn't work then something is wrong and doing more work generally isn't productive.

I turned fine stones to work on flats, I did many strokes, but it did not get any better.

Moving from the medium to fine stones should again be very fast if they are at the same angle, and they should be near instant (a few passes) if you are working on a 20 degree multi-bevel on a 15 degree primary edge.

It looks like nobody had a problem with S30V and Sharpmaker.

Numerous people have reported problems, I had a Benchmade Skirmish in S30V which had the exact same behavior you describe.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,
Thank you very much for your post. This is good information.
Can you give me an advice how to sharpen this knife or the only option is to send it to Spyderco?
Thank you,
Roman
 
You can sharpen it with a really wide hone which is also really soft, ideally I would suggest a natural japanese waterstone. However this is more of a curiousity/challenge than practical advice. The same problems that make it difficult to sharpen also reduce its edge retention.

-Cliff
 
Thank you.
I unfortunately do not have waterstones, but I was planning to buy 6” DMT Dia-Sharp, Coarse stone and use it with Sharpmaker. Will it help me with my Native?
What is cause for so strange behavior of my knife, with every sharpening it is getting duller and duller? Am I really breaking bigger and bigger pieces of edge?
What did you do with your Skirmish?

Roman
 
What I'd bet you're probably doing is turning the edge slightly each time you raise a burr, thus making a kind of permanent burr. I've seen it done with tougher steels, but it's easy enough to correct.

Try the marker trick. Color the edge bevel with a marker (blue works for me), and take a few passes with the Sharpmaker. If you are hitting the top of the bevel, your angle is too thin. Bottom, too thick. Middle, just right. :)
 
bh49 said:
...I was planning to buy 6” DMT Dia-Sharp, Coarse stone and use it with Sharpmaker. Will it help me with my Native?

I don't think so, you need a softer cutting action.

What is cause for so strange behavior of my knife...

There is a problem with the steel, there could be many reasons, it could be that it was soaked too long during the heat treatment, or that the tempering temperature was off, of that the edge was overheating in the final grinding.

Am I really breaking bigger and bigger pieces of edge?

That is what I saw on the one I had.

What did you do with your Skirmish?

I was just evaluating it. The owner returned it to Benchmade and had it replaced.

-Cliff

Roman[/quote]
 
Sword and Shield thank you very much for help. I appreciate it.
Cliff, thank you very much for help and finding time to answer all my questions.
I read many of your posts and visit your web site. Your knowledge and experience is very impressive.
Roman
 
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