Problems with Weldwood glue?

Wolf Creek Forge

Wolf Creek Forge

Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
533
I have alwys used tanners barge cement in the past with great results..leather would come apart before the seam would..I ran out and decided to try weldwood because everyone recommended it..Ive tried every way of using it and the seams still dont want to stay solid..They look solid but with a bit of force they will seperate(not the leather, the seam)
Ive been waiting on glue to dry for 5-15 minutes(not to much glue and on dry leather) before putting leather together
Ruffing up welt prep etc..
Hammer leather together
Letting dry for hours under pressure...(does this stuff require overnight? the barge sure didnt)
Still the same results :confused:
Everything I did with the barge worked great but Im feeling like a greenhorn with this weldwood:mad: Like I said im not new to using leather glue and never had these issues until i tried this weldwood but since everyone raves about it I cant help but think Im doing something wrong??? Oh and its weldwood original formula..
 
Have you tried two coats? Sometimes the leather absorbs the glue and there isn't much on the surface. Put your first coat on and let dry until no glue sticks to your finger. Then apply second or third, depending on the leather, and let dry like the first. Then stick together. You really shouldn't need pressure for very long or really at all.
Is the glue a new can ? Older stuff seems to lose its strength.
 
I've been using Weldwood (the yellow gel type) for several years now with no problem at all....no two coats needed...apply (to both surfaces, of course), let dry for 10 minutes and presto....Something isn't right..this certainly isn't the Weldwood I use.
 
Good advice all around. Also I'll add some: Might try to mix the glue thoroughly with a stir stick, sometimes some residue settles on the bottom of the can through sitting on the shelf. I always stir it till I get no residue on the stick.

Secondly, if the cement gets too thick it wont soak into the fibers of the leather not making a good strong bond. Universal thinner will take care of overly thick cement. I've had this happen and thinning it out solved the issue. A thick application wont have the strong bond that two or three thinned applications will.

Weldwood is a good contact cement, but they also make rubber cement. A fact that some miss. I once made it all the way to the checkout before discovering I had rubber cement. It will not stick near as well.

Best of luck with your issue, I hope it works out for you. Please keep us updated.
 
I get the attendant at the hardware store to put the can in the paint shaker before I take it home. Sometimes if the person there doesn't know me they kind of balk a bit but explain to them it might separate a bit sitting on the shelf and they usually come around.

--Biz
 
Good idea on the shaker, I'll have to bug my buddy at the paint counter next time I need more cement. :) Stirring that stuff is not only messy but the fumes are downright heavy by the time its mixed.

Basically your thickening the mix by having the top off so long, and thicker glue is not going to work properly. You want it to soak into the fibers a bit.
 
I use to like the barge but they changed there recipe and the new stuff doesnt work as well. I switched over to weldwood about 3 or 4 years ago and have use it ever since. Well that and 3m 77 spray for applications where that is easier.

Occasionally add a little bit of thinner as stated. Sometimes the temperature can play a little effect on mateup, it gets pretty cold in my garage so it takes a little longer to tack up properly. As stated occasionally I will do a light second if the first one soaks in right away.
 
I use the regular Weldwood contact cement with great results. Only time there was a problem, I decided to try the low fume, water soluble product in the green can. Had exactly the same problems as Wolf Creek describes. Hated to throw out $8 worth of stuff, but couldn't work with it.
 
I have been wondering about that low fume stuff, but never had the guts to go ahead and buy.

I've held my grandpa's words on that subject, if it dont smell bad or hurt you in some way is just aint good enough. He was a roofer so...... :p His hot top boiler was godawful smelly but every time I catch that odor I think of him.
 
Got to say that the low fume idea would be great if it worked. Last June I was doing a batch of 25 sheaths and gluing inside the shop. Well....took me two days to get back right again. Kinda skeered me a bit, so now it's all glue outside.
 
well I have used the low fume Weldwood and while it is not normally as "good" for overall general use as the standard cements it works just fine within it's parameters
1) you need to apply at least two coats - but then I generally do the same with the standard cements - if after applying the cement the surface doesn't look "shiny" apply another coat - it happens often with todays leather due to the porosity (FWIW I've been working leather since 1961 and the quality of leather has changed, mostly not for the better). I also see many new workers wanting to "speed" their work which more often than not not leads to problems - take your time if you want quality work - in the long run shortcuts are just the opposite
2) it works especially good when doing larger areas such as linings and the off gassing is MUCH less
3) it works especially well on more porous leather such as buckskin (still not sure why some folks use commercial tanned buckskin since most is chrome tanned - generally a no no unless properly sealed)

as always others mileage will vary and there is no single right way to do things although there are wrong ways...

as for the standard Weldbond - been using it for 40+ years and when applied correctly as noted above it works and works fine. As for having the store shake it up - good for awhile and maybe good for all the way with a quart, but if using a gallon it's only good for awhile - it does not generally stay mixed for more than a couple of weeks or so - so re-mixing is required.

As for time - even Barge does not reach full strength in less than 12 - 24 hours and as noted the new Barge is a different formula and from reports gotten it does not hold as well as the original formula (FYI - Barge was NOT developed as a general purpose leather glue - it was developed for gluing on shoe soles in a factory setting ..........)

Also Barge has some new low VOC glues that sound interesting but I've not had a chance to try them.
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as for
I've held my grandpa's words on that subject, if it don't smell bad or hurt you in some way is just ain't good enough.
Click to expand...
yep a lot of old timers told me the same and IMO in general it's BS - Besides using such items in an open air environment is not the same as doing leather work closeup and with all due respect while I may sound like a broken record, there are some severe medical problems that can and will change your life dramatically when using toxic chemicals, especially long term - trust me you DO NOT want to go there, for the past 12 years it has caused me major life syle changes and restrictions - not a good thing............
 
I have similar issues with that new blue-tube Barge found at Hobby Lobby. Sometimes, it just seems like I can't get a full bond and it wants to pull apart. I've been considering changing to Weldwood if it works better.
 
I use Weldwood for all leather projects. I stir it well before using and the fumes are bad. I always wear a respirator when using it. I've found that the shelf life is not real long, so I don't buy a lot at a time.
 
Well, I think my problem was not enough on the leather..It was soaking into the leather and needing more..I started using two heavy coats(let one dry to non tacky then add another) and now its working like it should..
 
Good to hear! I have the same issues with a brand new can, its really thin stuff at first and always soaks in real fast. A second coat is almost always needed. It does tend to thicken with time and exposure to air.

I go through a quart so quickly though, it rarely gets too thick. But I have had thickening problems on occasion, a can of thinner would be a good purchase someday soon.
 
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