Industrial PID controllers tend to assume that whoever is programming them has some idea of what they are doing. This can be a bit awkward for the beginner.
Having used many controllers over the years, the best advice I can give is to download and thoroughly read the manuals for each one you are considering. If you can't freely download the manual for one, stop considering it. If you can't understand at least most of the manual, stop considering it. Once you have a shortlist, check whether each supplier has tech support in your language and timezone. If not, stop considering that controller.
The reason for downloading the manual is that, if you run into a problem, you can call for help, here or elsewhere online, with a link to the manual and a reasonable prospect of someone, who knows controllers generally, being able to help. Without the manual, they can't help. If the manual can only be accessed by signing up to a lifetime of spam, that ain't gonna happen and they can't help you either.
Initially, I'd suggest a fairly basic controller (no Ramp/Soak) with pulsed DC output to drive an SSR (maybe dual SSRs in parallel if your design calls for this). There's a learning curve and added complications don't help. Don't be too tidy when you wire the controller (this seems to be something that many folk who make knives struggle with). Different controllers have different connection layouts. If you leave an extra 3" or 4" on each of the wires, you can upgrade your controller at a later date without having to rewire.
Note that manuals are expensive. Most of the really cheap PID controllers have really poor manuals.
By all means look at kiln controllers, but bear in mind that Ceramics kilns, unlike HT ovens, are more concerned with heat-work than with precise temperatures. Many have a 30-second minimum output cycle time, which will cause the temperature to cycle above and below the setpoint. Make sure the cycle time can be set to 5 seconds or less (I use 2 seconds).