~Project Complete!~ I'm making friction folders! What blade steels do you want to see in them?

Which blade steel would you most like to see in a 3" bladed EDC friction folder?


  • Total voters
    151
Wow, 239 days later...

But finally, things are coming together. I'm almost ready to begin production for the first batch! Some major life events have taken place, including the installation of insulation and a furnace to the garage where I build my knives, so I can continue to build throughout the winter... very expensive to set up and install, but now that it is done I can work out there year round!

Some major updates for those still interested, in no particular order;

  1. THE FIXTURES NOW WORK PERFECTLY. By far, this was the most troublesome thing to get done correctly. I can machine the G10 for the handles without issue now, and the blades are coming off the mill without all the ugly marks they used to have on the profile.
  2. Handles are now contoured, resulting in a more comfortable feel in hand, and much more comfortable feeling in pockets.
  3. I've added a hole on the blade tang. In addition to making things less pokey, it makes the blade much more straightforward to machine!
  4. I'm now using much higher quality, all new hardware made of durable stainless steels. The old hardware I was using previously was extremely inconsistent; for instance, some female screw posts could be up to 0.2mm wider than they were supposed to be, meaning I couldn't use them for final assembly. The NEW hardware has no such inconsistencies, and the heads don't mark up as easily, either.
  5. Related to the point above, but, now my decorative backspacers won't fit, so they've been replaced with a threaded steel spacer instead.
  6. I've been experimenting with finishing stones for a hand-rubbed blade finish, and so far I'm enjoying the process enough to offer it as an option!

This project has been something I've been forced to work on in my spare time, and I had to spend money elsewhere as priorities kept shifting, so it's super gratifying to finally have come this far and be able to share this progress. Thanks for those still tuned in!

I'll be posting pictures soon to show the changes I've made to the design.
 
Here are some images of the latest prototype! The standard handles will still be single-colour G10, I just happened to have some of this multi-layered stuff lying around, and I thought they'd look cool with the contouring.

One brief note about the edge; it's left thicker than the blade stock behind it so I can heat treat the blade without worry, then grind it down to it's final geometry afterwards.

Here is a shot of the overall knife as it sits now! The forward part of the ramp on the blade spine will match up with the handle scales on future iterations; that's a change that was made after this blade was produced. Otherwise, future blades will have the same profile.
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This is the surface finish I get from the mill; the tip isn't discolored from being burnt, it's actually just a bit dirty. Oops.
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And this is the hand-sanded side. Currently sitting at a measly 120 grit finish, I'll be finishing it to at least a 1200 grit finish in future.
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This photo shows a bit more clearly what I meant by the spine not matching the handles. Again, this won't be an issue in new blades, and is already fixed in my modeling.
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And here is a picture showing the curve of the new handles!
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Thanks again for looking, guys. I'll have more updates over the next week or so as more is accomplished.
 
Honestly, I like where you are going. Your project looks constantly better. And I love the long lever. Makes for a very secure use.
However, I have two remarks :
- Why such a thick stock ? Seems overkill for a pocket knife.
- The bolts.... Look, I can do with hex or Phillips bolts, but these crucis are too much. They steal the show.
 
Honestly, I like where you are going. Your project looks constantly better. And I love the long lever. Makes for a very secure use.
However, I have two remarks :
- Why such a thick stock ? Seems overkill for a pocket knife.
- The bolts.... Look, I can do with hex or Phillips bolts, but these crucis are too much. They steal the show.

Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it!

The stock is actually only 3mm // 0.118", or just under 1/8th inch. It appears thicker probably due to the flat spine, as I opted for a full flat grind with no swedge.

EDIT TO mention; I chose 3mm stock because I have had great experiences with stock at that thickness, and the blade will be better able to withstand fairly substantial hard use while still slicing and cutting well.

I agree, the slotted phillips can seem a little jarring compared to other head types!

The reason I'm using phillips and slotted phillips screws is for ease of adjustment, whether all you have with you for drivers are what is on your Leatherman or SAK, or standard drivers you've got lying around your workshop, garage, etc. The fact is that to get the screws I wanted from the supplier I wanted to work with, those screw heads were the best option that were adjustable (free spinning pivots suck if you can't lock down the opposite side with a driver).

Thanks again for the interest! I'll have more pics up soon once I get the blade flat stoned to the finish I want to use.
 
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I understand the points you make about the ugly bolts. But I think you're overvalueing the "adjustment in the field" stuff. I had, and still have, several knives with screws allowing adjustment to owner's taste. Once they are adjusted at home, they will not move again. Period. Would they ever... apply a drop of the weakest Loctite before adjustment and be done with it. If I were you, I would go for screws with nice heads.
 
I understand the points you make about the ugly bolts. But I think you're overvalueing the "adjustment in the field" stuff. I had, and still have, several knives with screws allowing adjustment to owner's taste. Once they are adjusted at home, they will not move again. Period. Would they ever... apply a drop of the weakest Loctite before adjustment and be done with it. If I were you, I would go for screws with nice heads.

Part of keeping with this quality of hardware is making sure that everything comes in with as close a tolerance as possible while remaining affordable to keep with my lower price point, which is why I moved away from the Chicago screws I was using in the first iteration. If that means I'm somewhat limited in my screw appearance options, I figured that'd be a decent enough trade off! Looking at the catalogue again, the only other option would be security torx and... I've never talked to anyone who liked those screws on knives!

Part of my hangup on the "adjustment" also includes complete disassembly with basic tools, at least with this particular design. If there were a plain slotted option or simply a phillips that matched the male screw being used, I'd have opted for the most symmetrical aspect. Either way, a soft threadlocker will be used in the models I'll be shipping out, unless the buyer requests otherwise.

Maybe on future iterations I'll be able to move to different hardware featuring different screw heads (gotta be consistent dimensions!), but that'll depend on what price I can bring them in for.
 
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I'm really glad herisson herisson brought it up. I saw this thread this morning and was trying to think of a polite way to mention the screws. To my eye, the huge shiny screw heads totally throw off the otherwise very clean look of the knife. If those screws were available with blackened heads, that might help a little but even then I'm not sure.

Part of my hangup on the "adjustment" also includes complete disassembly with basic tools, at least with this particular design.

If you were Schrade, or CRKT, or Kershaw or some other knife company that sells to non-knife people, I could totally understand that. But you're a custom maker. Everyone you're selling to is a knife guy/gal. We've all got a Torx set that runs from T6-T10 so that we can adjust knives etc... If you ask, I'd bet that the majority of members here would not consider a slotted or Phillips screw to be a selling point. In fact if anything I tend to avoid them because it's easier to keep torx screw heads clean because bits don't cam out as easily.

Minus the screws, it's a really very lovely knife. It is sleek and just looks to be full of purpose. I love seeing how far it has come, from the drawing board to now. Kudos on awesome design and execution.
 
For me in my personal opinion on the screw heads I would say a standard flat head screwdriver slotted screw or a standard Torx screw. I would go with Torx as my top choice of the two. I think with some of the other comments about them it doesn't even need to be coated but if they could be dull and not shiny that would go a long way to improve the aesthetics assuming a Phillips must be kept as the screw head.
 
I'm really glad herisson herisson brought it up. I saw this thread this morning and was trying to think of a polite way to mention the screws. To my eye, the huge shiny screw heads totally throw off the otherwise very clean look of the knife. If those screws were available with blackened heads, that might help a little but even then I'm not sure.



If you were Schrade, or CRKT, or Kershaw or some other knife company that sells to non-knife people, I could totally understand that. But you're a custom maker. Everyone you're selling to is a knife guy/gal. We've all got a Torx set that runs from T6-T10 so that we can adjust knives etc... If you ask, I'd bet that the majority of members here would not consider a slotted or Phillips screw to be a selling point. In fact if anything I tend to avoid them because it's easier to keep torx screw heads clean because bits don't cam out as easily.

Minus the screws, it's a really very lovely knife. It is sleek and just looks to be full of purpose. I love seeing how far it has come, from the drawing board to now. Kudos on awesome design and execution.
For me in my personal opinion on the screw heads I would say a standard flat head screwdriver slotted screw or a standard Torx screw. I would go with Torx as my top choice of the two. I think with some of the other comments about them it doesn't even need to be coated but if they could be dull and not shiny that would go a long way to improve the aesthetics assuming a Phillips must be kept as the screw head.


Really good to hear the thoughts on the screws; no one I've shown elsewhere online or in person have commented on them.

Hmm, then how about this?

If it meant replacing a two part system (male screw, female screw) with a three part system (male screw, female standoff, male screw) but being able to get it in Torx, would that be an acceptable solution? I wouldn't be able to get a two part system in which both heads are Torx. (Which is why I hadn't thought of that solution until I re-open the catalogue to sift around through the available parts.)

Looking more closely at my current supplier, the difference in costs would be minuscule, and it wouldn't require me to redesign a significant portion of the knife to make the new parts fit.
 
Really good to hear the thoughts on the screws; no one I've shown elsewhere online or in person have commented on them.

Hmm, then how about this?

If it meant replacing a two part system (male screw, female screw) with a three part system (male screw, female standoff, male screw) but being able to get it in Torx, would that be an acceptable solution? I wouldn't be able to get a two part system in which both heads are Torx.

Looking more closely at my current supplier, the difference in costs would be minuscule, and it wouldn't require me to redesign a significant portion of the knife to make the new parts fit.

I think that's an awesome solution. Would it mean a smaller screw head that is less visually obtrusive?

Thanks for being so open to the commentary. I'm usually hesitant to say anything, lest someone think I'm being harsh or offensive about their work.
 
I think that's an awesome solution. Would it mean a smaller screw head that is less visually obtrusive?

I should be able to have SOME wiggle-room as far as final screw size, I'll have to play around a bit to see what I can do. The only real constraint is that the whole milling system I've built revolves around the use of mounting hardware that mates with 1/4" diameter holes, so the female standoff will need to be that wide regardless of what size the final screws end up being.

This isn't just due to aesthetic preferences, this is to ensure that I can be efficient with my current milling setup. Not just the fixture plates, but being efficient with which cutting tools I can use in my mill to get the job done as quickly as possible without cutting corners, so to speak.

I want to keep things as streamlined as possible so there I can avoid extra end cost to the buyers, and I really don't like compromising on that.

Thanks for being so open to the commentary. I'm usually hesitant to say anything, lest someone think I'm being harsh or offensive about their work.

Of course! One reason for still posting in this thread is to get feedback on my current status, so hearing back from members here as opposed to the general public definitely carries some real weight with me.

Plus, I'm an art school graduate, I'm pretty used to harsh critiques by now! We had to be, in order to improve. Not that what you or herisson herisson or anyone else is saying is "harsh" at all, really. I view it more as constructive criticism! Sometimes I have reasons for wanting to do or not do something, but there is usually some level of flexibility there.
 
yeah, I agree with the others... use a slightly smaller screw head size, and get them in iron oxide (black) if possible - then you're gonna see interest really spike ; )
instead of purple/black g10, try some od green/black or even grey/black
 
This is a really interesting project, and I do like where this is heading. The smaller torx heads/screws will definitely be a great improvement. Any chance if we make the stop pin hidden inside the handle?

Also, I owned a few friction folders, the peened ones are almost impossible to adjust the tightness of the pivot, so they always have to go in sheath for safe carry. But the Svord pivot and end screws are easily adjustable, so one could change how tight do the blade sit inside the handle or how loose is the pivot. Will the male screw-female tube-male screw configuration make it less possible to adjust the how tight the handle sandwiching the blade?
 
yeah, I agree with the others... use a slightly smaller screw head size, and get them in iron oxide (black) if possible - then you're gonna see interest really spike ; )
instead of purple/black g10, try some od green/black or even grey/black

I'm looking into different finishing options for the screws, as they all come with a reflective finish... we'll see what's possible once I settle in on exactly what size and type I'm ordering.

The purple/black G10 is just something I did for myself, I'm probably going to stick with solid colors going forward with occasional variants, again to keep costs lower.

This is a really interesting project, and I do like where this is heading. The smaller torx heads/screws will definitely be a great improvement. Any chance if we make the stop pin hidden inside the handle?

Also, I owned a few friction folders, the peened ones are almost impossible to adjust the tightness of the pivot, so they always have to go in sheath for safe carry. But the Svord pivot and end screws are easily adjustable, so one could change how tight do the blade sit inside the handle or how loose is the pivot. Will the male screw-female tube-male screw configuration make it less possible to adjust the how tight the handle sandwiching the blade?

Glad to hear you're interested! I don't think I'll be able to make the stop pin hidden at this point, maybe that'll be something for a future iteration? Either way, the new three part configuration will be just as adjustable as the current two screw setup, meaning you'll be able to dial in the exact tension you prefer very easily.
 
I've found some T15 Torx hardware that'll interface nicely with the current setup, and I'll be able to supply an adjustment tool with the knife without increasing the cost. I would have liked to have used a T8 or T10, but at the sizes available that use those drivers, the heads aren't wide enough to make me feel confident in the level of engagement they'd provide.

Here are some comparisons of the sizing from the old screws to the new sizes. Although a T15 Torx, they are still nearly 20% smaller in diameter from the old phillips screws, and 30% smaller than the slotted phillips bits!

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I feel T15 is larger than needed but that render looks good and I think I have a T15 if not its just one more tool to add to the set I have.
 
Smaller looks definitely better. Must they be so much deeper, too ?
 
I feel T15 is larger than needed but that render looks good and I think I have a T15 if not its just one more tool to add to the set I have.
Yeah, like I mentioned I would have preferred a T8 or T10, but if I can supply the tool itself then I suppose it doesn't matter as much.

Smaller looks definitely better. Must they be so much deeper, too ?
I am liking how recessed they are myself I kinda hate when I can feel the heads on the screws.
They probably won't be set quite so deep into the handle, but there WILL be some recessing so they don't interfere with the feel in hand much.
 
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