Pros / Cons of 1074?

Carl_First_Timer

Carl_First_Timer

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Dec 6, 2010
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I have some 1074 left over from a few different jobs. I have been playing with it to make a few things. I like the grind-ability, and heat treat. Both were very simple and straight forward. 1074 takes a super sharp edge fast. Does that mean it would dull just as fast?

My issue: I made some steak knives out of it, and tried one out last night. I sat down to dinner with the family and everyone used the new steak knives. The knifes cut super throughout, but when dinner was done I noticed the super sharp edge was gone. Maybe the hard plate? Maybe just the steel?

Anyhoo I'd love to hear any thoughts ramblings on this subject. What are your perceived Pro's/Con's to 1074?
 
Without the assay, it is hard to say much besides the fact that 1074 should harden and take a good edge. With proper HT, a steak knife will work fine. The edge geometry is a factor, so that may be part of the problem.
 
I put the blanks in a cold kiln, heated up to 1500F. Soaked for 10 minutes. Quenched in McMaster Carr 11 Second oil, and tempered 2x at 375F. I'd appreciate feedback on my process.

The knife took a super sharp edge, shaved arm hair with ease. Sliced through paper like there was nothing there. Still cuts through steak like a champ. But no more hair popping, or smooth paper slices. No edge rolling I can see.

P.S. I always love to read your essays.:thumbup:
 
Cutting on dinner plates is the bane of any knife edge my friend. If a chief caught you using one of his knives on a glass cutting plate/board he would have a stroke on the spot. I saw the edge of a shun knife under microscope after being used on glass plates. Started rolling it right over.The shun was vg-10.1074 is a good steel, not super high end but very good. You should be able to skin at least a couple of deer with having to touch it up.
 
Agreed with the sentiments above--I have some knives out of 1074 and have been very happy with their performance. Glass/ceramic surfaces are harder than any knife steel; those steak knives could have been made of M4 hardened to 65HRC and they would have suffered the same fate. There are a few options:
1) Serve steaks on cedar planks like some restaurants do (or just get a bunch of small wooden cutting boards)
2) Teach how to properly cut a steak with a really sharp knife, which is to spear it with your fork and lift it a bit off the plate and pull the razor edge through the meat in one motion (if you have to saw back and forth, the knife is too dull) therefore protecting the edge from the surface.
3) If you're like me, finally give up on trying to convince the non-knife members of your household that there is such a thing as using a knife correctly or "proper" cutting surfaces, and get them some serrated knives. Only Cutco products I own, and it pained me mightily to buy them, but the points take the dulling and leave the valleys sharp, so they do work. They're 440A and have lasted for years now. Of course, being 440A is in their favor as I've had about as much luck convincing people to not throw knives into the dishwasher as I have instructing proper use.
 
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Maybe I will just have to make a nice steak knife for myself. I'd make it look all cheapo so it would match, but then someone else would pick it up and do their best to saw through the plate with it. Should have heard me at dinner last night, "you do not need to saw through the meat, just slice a bit forward, then pull back all the way through.". It was a form of torture for me.

Thanks guys for the input.
 
With those parameters ,you should have an edge at Rc60. That is a hard edge. I temper similar steels at 400F for Rc59.

One reason steak knives are usually serrated is that only a small portion of the blade will touch the plate. Thus, the main part of the sharp places stay sharp.
 
t1mpani said:
Glass/ceramic surfaces are harder than any knife steel; those steak knives could have been made of M4 hardened to 65HRC and they would have suffered the same fate. There are a few options:
1) Serve steaks on cedar planks like some restaurants do (or just get a bunch of small wooden cutting boards)
2) Teach how to properly cut a steak with a really sharp knife, which is to spear it with your fork and lift it a bit off the plate and pull the razor edge through the meat in one motion (if you have to saw back and forth, the knife is too dull) therefore protecting the edge from the surface.
3) If you're like me, finally give up on trying to convince the non-knife members of your household that there is such a think as using a knife correctly or "proper" cutting surfaces, and get them some serrated knives. Only Cutco products I own, and it pained me mightily to buy them, but the points take the dulling and leave the valleys sharp, so they do work. They're 440A and have lasted for years now. Of course, being 440A is in their favor as I've had about as much luck convincing people to not throw knives into the dishwasher as I have instructing proper use.
Click to expand...

Excellent post, I couldn't agree more.
 
1074 should make a great knife.

I'm guessing that the edge was damaged by the plate.

I always cut my food on a plastic cutting board, then transfer it to the plate.
 
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