Protective Coating for Walking Sticks

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Mar 7, 2002
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I am making some of my own walking sticks. When I was searching for some online, I saw where makers put a polyurethane coating on the stick. I have a can of clear acrylic spray paint. Is this basically the same thing. Does anyone know of any disadvantages or advantages to using this?
 
First of all, AFAIK, polyurethane coatings for exterior use, are more durable and long lasting than acrylic. There are usually complete instructions on the can.

Second of all; Are these walking sticks freshly cut? If so they need to dry for at least a year. Coating uncured wood is not recommended. Preferably they should be durable hardwood and not pine.

Third; Is the bark removed? If you are leaving the bark on (as some do), then a protective coating is usually not used.

That's what I know about it. Maybe others can add more explicit advice if you give more details about the walking sticks.:)
 
If you want a truly beautiful Finnish that will last for years This is what I use on my Bows. Mix equal parts of Spar varnish, Mineral spirits, and Boiled linseed oil. You have to hand rub this in and it is VERY messy. Then It takes at least a week for it to dry. Use 0000 steel-wool between coats. 3 coats is recommended. The last coat will take about a month to dry.
Yep, its a lot of work.
 
Vorpal Blade pretty much covered it. I used to use hickory, but have switched over to cane/bamboo. Less weight and still strong enough for some lite prying.

Here's mine leaning against a tree in our backyard.

P1020854.jpg
 
First of all, AFAIK, polyurethane coatings for exterior use, are more durable and long lasting than acrylic. There are usually complete instructions on the can.

Second of all; Are these walking sticks freshly cut? If so they need to dry for at least a year. Coating uncured wood is not recommended. Preferably they should be durable hardwood and not pine.

Third; Is the bark removed? If you are leaving the bark on (as some do), then a protective coating is usually not used.

That's what I know about it. Maybe others can add more explicit advice if you give more details about the walking sticks.:)

The stick that I am working on right now has been laying flat in the garage for about a year. It does have the bark on but some of the ones that I bought have the bark on and some sort of glossy coating which is why I thought they needed it. I am pretty sure that it is hickory. I really don't like soft woods like pine because I want them to double as a self defense tool if needed. Does the polyurethane come in a spray? I never really have looked into it.
 
Vorpal Blade pretty much covered it. I used to use hickory, but have switched over to cane/bamboo. Less weight and still strong enough for some lite prying.

Here's mine leaning against a tree in our backyard.

P1020854.jpg


The bamboo doesn't seem like it would be that durable. How does it do?
 
Polyurethane is a spray or a brush on, plenty of both. I've done it when I 've wanted to keep the bark on the staff, or for some softer woods.

For hardwood, it has aged a year, I might just sand it very smooth, then rub it down with beeswax. Let it sit out in the sun for a while and rub it with a warm cloth until it gleams. I do that with my poplar and maple staves, have for years. Very pretty, very simple.
 
Best stuff I have used to date is "Tru-Oil" Gunstock finish - extremely resilient, either by itself (8 or 9 coats, or also use 2 ton clear epoxy on the bottom 2 feet for extra protection.

After they have dried, I will sand them with a dremel sometimes, then hand sand wth fine grits, then I use the ol' indian trick of hand rolling them in a fire - this helps harden them, and also gives it a very nice darkened / aged look, then I will wipe off char with wet cloth, let dry a few minutes, lightly sand again with fine grit and apply the Tue oil etc.

Best of hopes to you:)

sp
 
The bamboo doesn't seem like it would be that durable. How does it do?

Not as stout or strong as a good hardwood, but for my uses, it is durable enough. I found the durability of bamboo when I was shooting some home made bamboo arrows at a shoot and a few of the targets were steel with a hole in the kill. I put one of the arrows into the steel plate at 15' and it didn't break. Just pushed the point back a half inch or so.
 
Hey longbow,

I have also been using a bamboo hiking stick recently. What are you using on the bottom to protect it from cracking?

Doc
 
I use raw linseed and gum turpentine. Start with a 25% linseed mix then 50%, 75% and finally 100% raw linseed oil. Apply several coats of each mix. I may not be as pretty as some others but it is very durable and easy to refinish when it gets beat up.
 
I have also been using a bamboo hiking stick recently. What are you using on the bottom to protect it from cracking?


I use picture hanging wire. Wrap tightly for 3-4 inches up the shaft, thick enough that the rubber chair tip is a tight fit. You could also thin out some epoxy and bruch it inside and outside to seal the wood.
I like that bambbo too.

2Door *Formerly Bill
 
Wood ? My hiking pole is an old ski pole that the basket has fallen off .Nice handle and strap, stainless steel, carbide tip , made by Sandvik !!! When hunting I wrap it with some camo tape !
 
use 2 ton clear epoxy on the bottom 2 feet for extra protection.
I have also used 2 ton clear epoxy as a protectant. It stays liquid for about a half hour after mixing the resin and hardener together so there is time to cover most items.

Just one coat, carefully painted on forms a thick, uncommonly durable, waterproof coating. It has to be applied thickly for adequate coverage but not so thick that it runs. A little experimentation shows the way.

The final result is transparent, very glossy and slightly lumpy. The depth of the coating is easily seen. I like the look of it despite the slightly uneven effect.

The stuff is marketed as glue but kicks @$$ as a protective coating.
 
Hey longbow,

I have also been using a bamboo hiking stick recently. What are you using on the bottom to protect it from cracking?

Doc

I dipped it in hotmelt and then used a brass sleeve that a friend had made up for me. Very solid, but noisy, so am thinking of placing a rubber cap over the brass.
 
Walking sticks come with their own natural protective coating. It's called bark. :)

Seriously I've never gotten that fancy with a stick. Even if I carve it nice & smooth, I still consider it consumable & plan to cut another one when they break.
 
I bought a Cold Steel Walkabout XL for $5 at their annual parking lot sale in Ventura. It's a little heavy but that straight-grain hickory is just about indestructible so I can overlook the weight.
 
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