Pull-through sharpeners, how 'bad' are they really?

Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
147
Assuming you use a quality one, like one of those Lanksy's and use it the correct way with very little pressure, how 'bad' is a pull-through sharpener really? Anyone use them regularly? 'Been looking at the Lansky C-sharp and Quadsharp and they seem well made and well thought out. Any general opions on these from real world use?
 
Last edited:
Realistically they aren't too bad depending. They are not very good from long term standpoint as they are unable to hit the entire edge and will dish it out a bit right in front of the choil (as will a steel). Swap sides every so often so defects in the carbide cutters don't carve a groove in the edge.

 
Had one on the back of the boat mounted to the cutting board. Used every time I cleaned fish on the back of the boat for 10+ years. For $40 knifes we use to on the boat it was fantastic! I have one now in my tackle bag, use it on my spyderco bow river and very happy with the performance.

Now I have Diamond plates at home and none of my other knives touch the pull throughs. I care to much about getting a long lasting edge, not a get sharp quick.
 
They can improve a dull edge to kinda half sharp enough to cut stuff, IF certain conditions are met and your expectations of result are lower than average for a BF member.

First, the angle. Is the angle they are set at the angle you want? If not, proceed no further. If so, move on to the next question.

Are you capable of drawing the blade through them exactly perpendicular to the “V” on every stroke? If not, you’ll create an asymmetrical edge to start, and before long you’ll just be scraping the shoulder, not even reaching the apex.

Finally, do you want the microscopic scratches at your microscopic edge to be parallel to the length of the blade, thus denying yourself the benefit of the microscopic “saw teeth” that perpendicular abrasive action produces?

If you answered “yes” to all three of these questions, then pull through sharpeners can work for you. Best of luck.

Personally, I see them used poorly all the time, and I’ve never had success producing an edge that I was satisfied with. I can’t think of any knife I own that I wouldn’t prefer to sharpen or touch up with a small whetstone or diamond rod or ceramic rod or upside down coffee cup.

If you can make them work, great. But I found that particular road to be a dead end.

Parker
 
In terms of results with pull-throughs, I'd say 'limited' at best, and horrible at the worst, depending on technique.

By 'limited', I mean some of the points already mentioned, like:

>> a set sharpening angle, which obviously limits just how well your edge will perform and may not adequately meet your needs or expectations.

>> issues created because the edge is bottoming out in the 'V' between the inserts on every pass. This means, if the held angle isn't perfectly maintained, you'll be hitting only the shoulder of the bevel on one side, and scrubbing too far into the apex on the other side on each & every pass. As the held angle varies from one pass to the next, both sides of the apex will suffer for it. The net effect, at best, is that the apex will only get so crisp... and at the worst, the apex will be rounded off severely and very quickly. To me, this would be the single most limiting feature of the whole pull-through v-sharpener concept.

>> grind lines only parallel to the cutting edge. As mentioned previously, grind lines parallel to the edge will deny you the 'teeth' in the edge that are otherwise so helpful to slicing aggression. And if the parallel grind lines are very deep into the bevels of a thin edge, they'll weaken the edge laterally, meaning it'll fold too easily in use. This is a known issue with carbide scraper pull-throughs, in that the edges fail quickly and need very frequent touching up.


And by 'horrible', a lot of that comes down to technique issues, like using too much pressure. Leaning too heavily into it can cause the steel at the edge to be pinched between the carbide scrapers (in devices utilizing them, realizing that some don't), which can literally tear the thin edge and leave it severely weakened. And the damage caused by such tearing would necessitate a lot of additional metal removal at the edge to repair it.

And poor or very bad angle control exacerbates all the edge-rounding issues previously described in the 'limited' description above.

Edited to add:
If you think about the combined effect of the parallel (to the edge) grind lines AND the issues creating edge rounding, that's sort of a double-whammy working against slicing aggression. It always leaves the edge performance disappointing, especially once one has seen the benefits of using other means to sharpen, as on stones. That's always been the biggest letdown to me, every time I've tried a pull-through in the interest of keeping an open mind. I keep coming to the same conclusion, and it's never good.
 
Last edited:
for the price - I'd spend a few bucks more and get the lansky 4 rod turn box, or splurge for the diamond/ceramic turnbox or a sharpmaker
 
I dont think anything is as convenient as flicking open a folding dmt and touching a knife up. I don't think you save time with a pull thru either.
^This.

Once good geometry is set on an edge, it takes just a minute or even just a few seconds to touch up an edge on a stone. And when done with an edge-leading technique at a light touch, you'll get much better results in the form of a much more durable edge with very good or great slicing aggression, and at the sharpening angle of your choosing. There's no downside, literally at all.
 
The Project Farm guy tested a lot of the cheapo sharpeners against a few electric sharpeners and the basic Worksharp belt sharpener. The cheap ones were pretty much crap. He's a great Youtube follow:
 
Back
Top