Puma SAK sharpening

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Aug 12, 2018
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So I have a Puma branded SAK. This seems to be the only place that has ever seen one before. It looks like a black tinker deluxe and has a clip point partially serrated edge. I mean SMALL serrations, any idea on how to sharpen them? Best I could do was run it over a block brand sharpener and pray.
 
If the serrations are as small as the ones that Puma used on fixed blades about 30 years ago, I don't know of any way to sharpen them. They are too closely spaced to use the corner of a stone or sharpmaker rod.
 
If the serrations are as small as the ones that Puma used on fixed blades about 30 years ago, I don't know of any way to sharpen them. They are too closely spaced to use the corner of a stone or sharpmaker rod.
Maybe a small diamond needle file would do it if they are very fine, but it would probably be a pretty coarse edge.
 
If the serrations are as small as the ones that Puma used on fixed blades about 30 years ago, I don't know of any way to sharpen them. They are too closely spaced to use the corner of a stone or sharpmaker rod.
After playing with Google, they may be slightly smaller ( shorter and closer ).About what I thought then.
 
So I have a Puma branded SAK. This seems to be the only place that has ever seen one before. It looks like a black tinker deluxe and has a clip point partially serrated edge. I mean SMALL serrations, any idea on how to sharpen them? Best I could do was run it over a block brand sharpener and pray.

Buy some sandpaper and wrap it over a dowel of the same size. You can get a variety pack of cheap sandpaper and 3' of wooden dowel for just a few bucks.
 
Buy some sandpaper and wrap it over a dowel of the same size. You can get a variety pack of cheap sandpaper and 3' of wooden dowel for just a few bucks.
It's about 1serration point per mm. Given the thickness of paper, I'm not real hopeful. But thank you for the reply
 
It's about 1serration point per mm. Given the thickness of paper, I'm not real hopeful. But thank you for the reply

Search for "ruby polishing stone" on that big auction site. I'd recommend professional die and mold maker stones, but they get pricey.

You can buy those chinese "ruby" poloshing stones for a few bucks each in a bunch of different shapes. Some very fine. You should be able to find something suitable.
 
Search for "ruby polishing stone" on that big auction site. I'd recommend professional die and mold maker stones, but they get pricey.

You can buy those chinese "ruby" poloshing stones for a few bucks each in a bunch of different shapes. Some very fine. You should be able to find something suitable.
Thank you. I didn't know that was a thing. I learned me something. Might be my quota for the day,ha ha.
 
If you have a SAK that is actually tang stamped "Puma," you may just want to put it away and buy another SAK.
Anything "Puma" stamped brings good money, and I have never seen a Puma SAK.
 
With really tiny serrations that're too small & narrow to access with any known consumer sharpening tools, my inclination is to just sharpen the blade as normal on a stone, and (eventually) grind those serrations away, over some time. I've yet to see any discernable reason to keep them at all, as they offer no advantage over a decently sharpened plain edge, especially on such small blades with a couple inches or less of cutting edge length. With a small & thin SAK-style blade in simple stainless steel, it shouldn't take too long to get rid of them. Something like a ~ 320-grit stone in SiC or aluminum oxide, or a similarly-rated diamond hone, could make relatively short work of it on a small blade like that. Could either grind the apex flat to the depth of the serrations and then reset the bevels, or (easier) just sharpen as needed on such a stone, over time, to gradually hone them away.

I have an older (early 1980s) PUMA Bowie knife in PUMASTER steel, with their signature tiny serrations toward the heel of the edge, and I've just left them alone. That's one of the few knives I've kept in pristine, unused shape, as I bought it mainly as a collector piece. It's a beautifully-crafted knife, save for the one single 'gripe' I have with the serrations, which I wish weren't there. As heavy as that blade is, it'd take forever to grind them away completely and I'd ruin any collector value in doing so.
 
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Yep. That looks like a Wenger. Nice combination of tools on that one. I especially like the inclusion of the pliers and scissors. :thumbsup:

I have a 'Swiss Buck' (branded for Buck Knives, made by Wenger) with a clip blade (no serrations), can opener, awl and Phillips screwdriver looking just like those on your knife. In fact, on mine, the main clip blade still has the Wenger stamp on it. It's essentially a Wenger SAK with just the handle covers being styled/branded for Buck.

Those teeny-tiny serrations are the type that I'd just eventually sharpen away with use. I don't know that there's a hone made with an edge narrow enough or crisp enough to fit them. Not to mention, trying to sharpen them individually will never yield much in cutting improvement anyway. The points of the serrations, being so very small & narrow when 'sharp', will always be fragile and prone to getting bent or curled over; it's like very heavy burring, but much worse. When that happens, all they'll ever do very well is snag things, if cutting paper, cardboard, fabric, etc.

Just sharpen it like a plain-edged blade on a flat stone. Two or three (or maybe four) resharpenings on something like a ~ 320-grit SiC or AlOx oilstone would get them minimized or gone pretty fast. That's assuming the knife will be a user, and not a collector piece.
 
D795548D-4DA4-4E40-9F30-91408653AD3E.jpeg The teeth on these hair thinning shears have a serration in the middle of each tooth. I wonder how they sharpen these blades.
 
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