q: repairing guide rings on fishing rods

[SkinnyJoe]

I have an "Ugly Stik" Lite 7'0" graphite rod, medium action, 6-15lb line SP1170 2M. I use it for spinning, artificial baits only, maybe 2-3 hrs at a time, maybe 10-15 trips so far. I use 6lb test mono.

I have noticed small signs of wear (small notches, would not call them grooves yet) on the inside of the tip guide ring, bottom, and to the right, and I am a little concerned about damage to the line.

Questions:

1) Do I need to replace the tip asap?
2) If yes, where do I go for the correct equipment?
3) Are there other options, like polishing the area, or perhaps applying a coat of some sort of epoxy, that hardens to a glass-like substance?
4) On this particular rod, does anyone know what the material in question is?

Thanks.

 

[turk.919]

Just leave them alone, if it really bothers you buy a new rod. but it will work fine as-is.

 

[bobofish]

It could be any number of metals or ceramics depending on when you bought it. It's not a very high end rod, so it doesn't have the latest in Fuji magic. Most likely a decent ceramic. Most guides are ceramic these days, and as such there is a glazing on the surface. Sanding that down will actually make things worse. Even for many metal guides, there is an anodized layer on the surface that makes the guide slippery, and sanding it down creates friction on the guide.

The tip is really the only guide you have to worry about at all, unless you have big nicks. Especially for spinning rods, but also casters the main place where there is pressure on the line is at that tip.

Easy to repair if you have access to parts, easier to repair if you're willing to spend between $6-15 for a new guide at a repair shop. Every big town has at least one that can do it. FWIW, they'll put in any guide that you want, so if you have some sentimental attachment to the rod, you might as well get a nicer tip.

Really hard to say if you need to do anything at all. The only way to be certain is to check your line for nicks. To do that, put your thumb and forefinger in a C and run the line through your thumb and forefinger nails. If you feel small nicks and scratches, you should cut the line above that point. That's a good general practice by the way.

And if you want some peace of mind before a big trip for example, get your rod set up like you would go fishing, tie the end of the line (where you tie the bait) to something that won't move (like a tree stump or metal bracket), stand a few feet away, and writhe around like you're fighting a big fish. Make sure to turn the rod in all kinds of directions (like you normally would), and gradually let out a tiny bit of line after a little bit, let out a tiny bit more, and then do the nail nick check. Letting out a little line will let you know if you just stretched the line, or if you actually put some nicks in. You will also be more likely to tell which scratch is causing which nicks. Oh and please don't reef on the rod, there's no need. Just pretend you're fighting a biggish fish, and that's good enough. I don't want you snapping your rod or killing yourself.

FYI, one of the advantages of better rods, besides lightness and responsiveness, is nearly indestructible guides. Personally I'm a big fan of Lamiglas and St. Croix rods for spin fishing.

 

[SkinnyJoe]

Good info, thanks!

Now, as far as removing the old coat (to take the tip off) I read that heat is used. Can this be done chemically, with acetone for example?

Thanks.

P.S. your thoughts on Shimano rods? Also, would using 8 or 10lb (instead of 6) test measurably help with this kind of wear?

 

[BlueyM]

Excellent advice from Bobofish. :thumbup:

The tip guide is the important one. Most tackle shops will replace it with a good quality item for a few dollars.

Beats losing a good size fish from a nick in the line.

 

[Greyeagle]

Run a q-tip around the inside of the rod tip if it takes cotton from the q-tip replace it. You would be surprised at how easy it is for a small flaw to break or weaken monofilament under pressure.
KC

 

[bobofish]

Good info, thanks!

Now, as far as removing the old coat (to take the tip off) I read that heat is used. Can this be done chemically, with acetone for example?

I haven't tried any chemicals. Mainly because there is no need. A few seconds of heat is usually plenty to take it right off. Likewise I'd be a little worried that you don't get all the chemical off and the new application won't be 100%. YMMV.

Also keep in mind that that tip needs to be very well aligned. If you're not proficient with delicate (not rocket science, but it still requires some skill) work, I would leave it to a repair shop.

P.S. your thoughts on Shimano rods? Also, would using 8 or 10lb (instead of 6) test measurably help with this kind of wear?

With Shimano, it very much depends on the price point. Most Shimano fishing gear you find in the stores is nothing special, maybe even solidly below average, but at a bargain price.

On the other hand, they make some of the absolute best gear available, like their Stella, Stradic and Calcutta reels. And the price matches the quality.

For reels, I would not hesitate to recommend Shimano if you are willing to pay the big bucks. Partly that's a factor of the tight engineering and manufacturing needed to make a good one. On the other hand, with rods I think a specialty rod company is almost always going to come out on top. Some of the best rods in the world are made by individual guys in their garage. Sometimes they use blanks from the rod manufacturers of course.

If you're willing to play around a little, both Lamiglas and St. Croix sell a huge variety of rod blanks, and can point you in the right directions for other components and information on rod building. Lamiglas for example sells 400 different rods, and 5-600 different blanks. Even their more affordable lines are stellar. Granted I'm biased, I can drive to their factory in a half hour and talk to the people that make the rods.

 

[SkinnyJoe]

Can you recommend some rods that are made of fiberglass, and have durable rings?

The low weight of graphite is nice, but I guess I would value durability more, i.e increased resistance to scratches and bumps.

Thanks

 

[bobofish]

Any of the rods by the two companies I've mentioned are plenty durable. With the exception that both companies have super value lines made overseas, I don't know hardly anything about them.

I have a St. Croix trout rod that I have beat like a rented mule. That's the rod I give to my sister and my friends when we go trout fishing, and I do not pay attention to it at all. There was not a single nick or scratch on any of the rings until my friend decided to sword fight with it and snapped off the top ring. No biggy, I replaced it.

What's more, Lamiglas and St. Croix (also Loomis IIRC) offer a full lifetime warranty. A) you will never break those rods, and b) if you do you get a new one.

Fiberglass is OLD technology. The only reason to use it these days is for very specific fishing techniques like mooching or ultra featherweight casting, or because you like nostalgia. There is nothing inherently more durable about it, compared to a modern quality graphite rod.

 

[Ebbtide]

Good advice on the q-tip or cotton ball.
If you don't have a decent tackle shop to do the job...
The (brief) heat from a bic lighter will loosen up the old guide.
Bring the old guide to (Dicks, Sports Authority or the best place you've got) match the size.
This is very important.
I use the same heat applied glue that they sell for putting arrows together.
Carmel colored sticks, heat up the end of the glue stick & rub a small amount on the tip of the rod. Small amount.
While it is still hot, slide the new tip on and align with the other guides.
It really pays to practice the motions 10 or 15 times to get the required speed down.
If it comes out reheat, remove and try again.
But you really want to avoid that.
Wipe off the excess glue while it is hot, use a rag, and you are good to go.

Fishing rods are like knives.
We can all cut stuff well with a couple of Dexter Russell boning knives, or we can buy Doziers or have customs made.
Most of my tackle is pushing 20 years old.
I'm slowly replacing the pieces that are wearing out or raggedy or outdated.
My limit then was $60 for a reel and about the same for a rod.
Now I think a hundred for each will get you quality gear that will last if treated properly and cared for.

I just picked up 2 Shimano Scimitar 7' one piece rods. One casting H and one spinning MH.
Along with a Shimano Sedona 4000 reel for $66!
Sports Authority Memorial Day Sale impulse buy.
Wifey was looking for shoes, I play spot the rod that isn't broken.
Found those two, one had the reel on it. So for basically the price of the reel I got two rods thrown in free.
She said:
"It's hot as heck in this tent! You like them? Let's go pay for them."
Who am I to refuse?

So far I'm impressed even though I haven't caught anything big on them.
The will be my "bad neighborhood" East River striper and bluefish rods.