Quench plates, the man the myth the legend

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by JTknives, Aug 4, 2019.

  1. daizee

    daizee KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 30, 2009
    Thanks for that live data point, JT. It's not the answer I wanted to hear, but it was the one I expected. :(
    Not a fan of hard-grinding or hard-hand-finishing. It's probably my finishing practices that have to change first...
  2. seanj

    seanj Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 1, 2010
    I've had good success tapering a tang in AEB-L after heat treat. So far it's the only stainless I've used. I've found it relatively easy to grind after heat treat.
  3. butcher_block


    Dec 6, 2004
    my Al plates have been good to me but for mass HT loads they do get hot but i still remember that the key is 2000f under 1000f in a min or so. even hot plates make that work. all this said i have often thought about different options. one combo that might be a great set up is 2 inch steel plates with 1/4 inch copper faces and thermal paste between copper and steel. the thought is copper pulls the heat out the blade annd then the steel allows it to transfer and soak in/out of the main surface
    Jason Volkert and seanj like this.
  4. seanj

    seanj Gold Member Gold Member

    Mar 1, 2010
    That's a really good idea. That's exactly the way a heat sink works on a computer processor. I doubt you would even need 1/4 inch copper. Copper plate would probably be sufficient.
  5. Metalhead0483


    Jan 17, 2008
    It doesn't really effect me right now (still doing forge heat treating right now, and sending my SS off) but it's definitely an interesting read.
  6. Cushing H.

    Cushing H. Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 3, 2019
    That IS a good idea. I wonder though if the thermal paste could get so hot it would “boil” ... or sputter or whatever. Would have to try it and see i guess...
  7. JTknives

    JTknives Blade Heat Treating www.jarodtodd.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Jun 11, 2006
    I would be carful using copper. There was something I read that said one company was using water cooled copper quench plates and thy where test to be as fast as quench oil. Thy where quenching small washers.

    But why go with copper. Faster is not always better. And like was pointed out you have 2 min to get under 1100°. I had thought about using aluminum plate over steel at one time and and cooling it with radiator fluid. But it’s just not worth the effort. Maybe if you ran a belt furnace and blades where coming out every min. Funny beaus I have been looking at belt and vacuum furnaces lol.
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
  8. AVigil

    AVigil Adam Vigil knifemaker working the grind Platinum Member

    Feb 17, 2009
    You can always run coolant through your aluminum plates. I know Jeff Mutz does this and Jay Fisher
    Natlek likes this.
  9. Nick Dunham

    Nick Dunham

    Feb 15, 2018
    John Grimsmo does water cooled quench plates, but just recirculates from a 5 gallon bucket. It wouldn't be too complicated to build a laminated steel cooling block, if one had a CNC plasma ;). Just enough cooling to keep things in range. That'd save you swapping plates out. Corrosion control would be a consideration for water and steel plates, of course.
  10. JTknives

    JTknives Blade Heat Treating www.jarodtodd.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Jun 11, 2006
    ow why do you have to go and put ideas like that in my head. Lol
    But yeah it would be easy to cut out a snaking path in in say 1/4” and then sandwich that between 2 other sheets. Hell you could then tig weld it all together. Punch holes through the cover plates for puddle welding to hold the core togather. Then surface grind everything flat. Hot damn, man now I’m distracted again.
    drew1972, Nick Dunham and seanj like this.
  11. Storm W

    Storm W KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 19, 2019
    What about using aluminum plates attached to your steel plates. I believe they make conductive past that you could add as well. I have some stainless pots and pans. Some are cheap IKEA that my wife bought that are solid stainless and the others ha e aluminum cores. There is a huge difference in how well the pans heat. Or perhaps you could do a bronze brazed surface and machine it.

    Do you know and guys from Hewes Marine? Back when I worked there we were allowed to buy anything less then a half sheet at scrap price. If I recall there was a fair bit of 1/2 scrap from the transoms on the larger boats that you could cut into strips and bolt or weld together.
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2019

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