Question for Watch guys, Seiko

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gadgetgeek

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May 19, 2007
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I have a SNK805 which I was pretty hard on. It started running way fast, more than a minute per hour of drift, and despite a lot of attempts to adjust it I can't get it better than 20 seconds per hour. I know it won't be super accurate, but under 10 would be nice, 10 per day even better.

Is there any point in getting a watchsmith to look at it, considering that even with the australia tax they are only 110$ as well as grey market, which is what it is. Or is it likely a lost cause, and I should just offload it to someone for parts and replace it? As far as a watch goes its right in the pocket for me as far as size, features, all that.

Since then I went back to a plastic body quartz timex for work and have not killed it yet, but I have a steel body expedition weekender that I managed to kill the date window on... yeah I'm hard on watches.
Probably also looking at some of the solar options. Thoughts, ideas?
 
gadgetgeek said:
I have a SNK805 which I was pretty hard on. It started running way fast, more than a minute per hour of drift, and despite a lot of attempts to adjust it I can't get it better than 20 seconds per hour. I know it won't be super accurate, but under 10 would be nice, 10 per day even better.

Is there any point in getting a watchsmith to look at it, considering that even with the australia tax they are only 110$ as well as grey market, which is what it is. Or is it likely a lost cause, and I should just offload it to someone for parts and replace it? As far as a watch goes its right in the pocket for me as far as size, features, all that.

Since then I went back to a plastic body quartz timex for work and have not killed it yet, but I have a steel body expedition weekender that I managed to kill the date window on... yeah I'm hard on watches.
Probably also looking at some of the solar options. Thoughts, ideas?
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I think it is worth it. Take it to a reputable watchsmith and show it to them and strike up the same conversation you've started here. You'll learn a lot even if it turns out not to be worth it to you. Keep us posted!

Zieg
 
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The nearest one is a couple hours drive, as far as I know, and I have a tissot that probably deserves some TLC so I'll make the trek at some stage. But also happy to hear further thoughts.
Also if anyone knows of another watch with a similar style of face to the SNK80x with the minute numberings rather than 24hr I'd be interested to know about it.
 
I'm far from a watch expert (you already know that), but from my limited knowledge of autos, that can happen when a jewel cracks or gets knocked out of alignment. Could be a relatively simple fix if that's the case, but likely a good watchmaker would need to look at it to tell you for sure.
 
I'm new to the watch world, but perhaps a Casio G-Shock is more of what you need?
That said, there are some Citizen Eco Drive watches with minutes numbers on the outer ring - AW1361-10H, CA4210-24E, & CA4210-41M.
 
Job is changing so I should be able to not be as hard on them. Paddling canoes is what did it I think, whacking the watch on the gunwale. I am kinda klutzy though. G-shocks are good, certainly, I just like a slimmer watch. I have a Timex E-Tide that is about 12mm thick and its about as thick as I'd want to go in a watch.
 
Seiko's 7S26 movement is easy for pro watchmakers to regulate and if nothing else is wrong, in a few minutes they can get it running +/– a few seconds per day.

gadgetgeek said:
Also if anyone knows of another watch with a similar style of face to the SNK80x with the minute numberings rather than 24hr I'd be interested to know about it.
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61FF%2BqdH7rL._AC_UY550_.jpg

Not sure what you're asking for, but your watch's dial pattern is a bit unusual. It is an homage to the Luftwaffe's Beobachtungsuhr or B-Uhr (air crewman's watch) type B produced January 1941 until war's end.

8079_pl16.JPG


WW2 photo is a B-Uhr type A from 1940 which is probably more what you'd like. Run a Google search for "flieger watch" and you'll see a whole bunch. If that doesn't do it, run a search for "field watch."
 
It’s hard to believe anything can be fixed for less than $110. Add in a 4 hour round trip. You are loosing money. I’d replace it.

most comfortable watch I own is a Bertucci. Slim and light weight. The knob is at 4 O’clock so it doesn’t dig in.
 
If magnetized that would throw it off a lot.
The 7s26 is very touchy to adjust- you said you've tried that? I've owned over 10 of them and most were about 39 sec fast per day. I would only wear it 5 days then Chang so it wasn't a problem for me.
If the movement is bad, you can buy a cheap sheik of 5 on eBay and have your watchmaker switch it out but you're almost better off to just buy another watch on eBay and sell yours for parts. Those can be found for under $100 if you shop carefully. Whatever you do don't buy one from a retail store.
 
bdmicarta said:
If magnetized that would throw it off a lot.
The 7s26 is very touchy to adjust- you said you've tried that? I've owned over 10 of them and most were about 39 sec fast per day. I would only wear it 5 days then Chang so it wasn't a problem for me.
If the movement is bad, you can buy a cheap sheik of 5 on eBay and have your watchmaker switch it out but you're almost better off to just buy another watch on eBay and sell yours for parts. Those can be found for under $100 if you shop carefully. Whatever you do don't buy one from a retail store.
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Because of watches being very regional, they are not for sale here, so I have to import, and I've done enough damage to the exterior that by the time I'm done, I may as well get a new one. I tried both of the adjustments, and only got marginal results. I have magnetic film on the way as well. I very likely did do some damage to a jewel. I'm considering what I might be able to do with the face on a new movement. I find the numbering fits by brain. Too bad I can't fit it into a solar. I'd rather not throw stuff out, but at the end of the day, I can't keep it all, and a box of broken cheap watches doesn't help much.
 
MOST LIKELY cause is the mainspring became magnetized. It has the same effect as shortening the spring thus causing it to run very rapidly. If it started running fact in short order, the mainspring is magnetized. You probably set it in a magnetic field (on refrigerator, speaker, microwave etc.). It simply needs degaussing.
 
So just to be clear how are you adjusting it? Removing the case back and nudging the lever or are you setting it down face up for the night and then face down etc.?
 
Danke42 said:
So just to be clear how are you adjusting it? Removing the case back and nudging the lever or are you setting it down face up for the night and then face down etc.?
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Adjusted using the levers internally due to it running way outside the "face up/ face down" tolerance.
What about battery powered demagnitizers, I'm not so keen on buying non-compliant plug-in electronics. Are they all samey-same, or is it worth spending money on?
 
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