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Discussion in 'Survive! Knives' started by Silver Needle, Jul 29, 2016.
Have you considered changing your handle to Silver Ellie?
The Coghlan's "Flint Striker"? Our local Farm&Fleet stocks them, they cost ~$5.25 after tax, sometimes less if I catch a sale. From what I can tell, the rod itself is identical in quality to the LightMyFire and any other 5/16 rod, and the Coghlan's is a great length for striking down. Indeed, I prefer it to the original 'Army' model from light-my-fire which features the same handle and striker but is shorter (the newer 'Army 2.0' has a different handle and striker), and is now sold under the brand "NDuR". The handle is stout but sometimes isn't all that well glued in place, I've never had one pop out but there are a couple of amazon reviewers that say it happened to them *shrug*. The rod also includes some cord and a striker. From trying out different rods from different sellers, I have come to the conclusion that the rods, regardless of price, may all actually be coming from the same OEM factory (probably in China) and so function almost identically BUT it is the STRIKER which determines how well it sparks. The coghlan's stiker is no better than a random scrap of punched metal (like an unpolished key), I don't use it. A shard of glass, sharp blade-spine, etc. all work better than that striker. But for $5 vs $15 or even $20-30 for what is essentially the same rod or a shorter one from a different company that simply supplies a different handle and striker with the rod, it's an easy choice - get the cheap one, replace the striker, and heck you can use duct-tape for the handle if need be
I'm not sure if this is directed at me since my fire steel set is $20.00 for standard colors and $25.00 for Kryptek (standard colors of .080 heavy duty kydex with shipping are about $6.00 a sq.ft. - Kryptek is $16.95 a sq.ft. PLUS shipping). I've been around for awhile and Chiral doesn't strike me as that kind of guy.
Anyway, my set includes the following.
* 5/16" rod x 2-1/4" usable strike length (I've built countless fires with my rigs)
* A custom handle that will not come off. (I've built these for years before ever posting them here and no one has ever contacted me and said they fell apart).
* Heavy duty .080 kydex that is doubled over. Super strong. (If you'll take a close look at mine, they are not just a piece of kydex wrapped around a rod with two holes drilled in it).
* Holes are drilled at 3/4" on center since that is the measurement for Tek Lok, Molle Locks, and many other clip and attachment systems.
* Hardware is INCLUDED to mount it to almost any sheath with holes and/or slots.
* Counter sink washers (included), keep tension on the screws so they don't loosen while in the field.
* Hardware is all black oxide STAINLESS STEEL.
* With the exception of the recesses, all the edges are rounded, buffed, and polished for a quality look and comfort when wearing (No sharp edges).
* Marine grade bungee that is UV and chemical resistant. Same bungee used in sailing, not cheap fabric store elastic.
* Personally hand built by me in my shop.
You have a quality knife that you paid a handsome price for with a high quality sheath. Why not put the best accessories on there that you can. Quality at an affordable price.
"The bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after the sweet taste of a low price is gone".
Since we're here, I'm going to say that I'm not a fan of the paracord dangler system. I've tried it (not hard to build) with kydex and leather and I wasn't happy with my knife flopping all over the place when I was in rough terrain or even walking briskly down a path. I also wasn't comfortable with it only contacting the sheath on one side. Seems I always got hung up on the brush with the front being "open".
I build mine with a super thick offset backing made from .125 kydex (a full 1/8" thick). The drop portion of my loop is made from either scuba webbing or coated webbing. Both are stiff enough to keep your knife from flopping around yet flexible enough to move when bending, sitting, climbing, jumping etc. Here's a few pics. Same as my fire steels and loops. Same hardware with marine grade spacers (not cheap rubber washers). Mine connect at 4 points with the Stainless Steel screws and steel posts. It WILL NOT come off. I also build drops for TEK LOK's too.
Oh and here's my personal Survive!Knives rig. My fire steels and loops are universal and I can build the drop loop for any sheath.
Also, here's some of my personal fire steels, all built by me. The antlers are from bucks I killed in the past. You can see they are all used. [/IMG]
Until Survive!Knives is ready to offer these accessories, I'll continue to take orders (maybe they'll have me start building them as an add on if Khia doesn't want to build them - )
PM me if you'd like to order something. I build the best I can at an affordable price. Made in the U.S.A.
Thank you, Chiral. Any endorsement from you goes a long way in my eyes. Sadly, I've found that almost any outdoor gear I'm able to purchase locally at a brick and mortar store is junk. Coleman stuff is easy to find and I've seen more Coghlan's lately. If I ever put serious wear on my Exotac, I'll try the Coghlan's.
Hale, take a few deep breaths
I'm positive Chiral was comparing Coghlan's to Light my Fires.
Now say I get real crazy about my woods time preparedness, could you make me a firesteel holder in the style you show in your first two pics with one of those ridonkulous 1/2 inch thick firesteels?
You mean like this? Why of course I can my friend. I even have a 1/2" X 5" blank fire steel in stock and some 1" thick canvas micarta.
That's the type of rod I had in mind!
Hale, I would be down for a couple of those.
Hale, I would be down for that awesome piece of work too. I love the big fire steels and that is great looking handle size.
I generally don't like add-ons on my knife sheaths. Firesteels, pouches, any of those things. Like you mention, Hale, they generally are more for getting caught on stuff than anything else. BUT, I like the idea of the small flashlight! I've never seen or thought of that before.
I have a few of Chirals kydex extensions. Different approach, but I like them. Haven't had a problem with them. Yours look good, too, Hale. I'm curious why you chose to go with the webbing over leather, similar to what Azwelke does on some of his options.
Hey Silver, how about Silver Nellie?
Yes, my mancard (if there ever was any!) ought to be revoked because I quoted my own post! Who seconds this motion?
Haha! to both of your comments
I think I've quoted myself for one reason or another. We can punish you for something else later on. At your rate, shouldn't be long
Hey Ellie quick ? About multiple orders! I ordered a 4.7 cru V in April and placed a order for a 2.7 in June or July will you'll ship those together or separately?
Sent from the pay phone beside 7/11!
I've seen Bob's work too and he builds a really nice sheath.
A simple leather loop is easy enough to do and I have a half cow of veg tanned 9-10 oz. that makes really nice heavy duty loops and I've used them before on my own rigs ( I dabble in leather and have the tools to work it and finish it out properly). I build all of my axe and hatchet sheaths out of this leather but they are just covers and are not exposed to the elements the way my sheaths are. Coincidentally I was in the woods late Saturday night trying to sneak up on a pack of coyotes near my camp. I never got to them and ended up caught out in a nasty rain storm. Leather would have been soaked all the way through.
The reason I went with the webbing is more of a "bullet proof" approach. My sheaths are all heavy duty .080 with steel hardware and solid brass eyelets. The drop loop offset is super thick .125 kydex. The scuba webbing is strong enough to tow a truck and the coated webbing is waterproof. Down here in the South, it is 80% relative humidity all the time and summers are in the triple digits. We describe it as "buckets of sweat" hot. Invariably, on the hip, the loop gets stained from sweat and is harder to maintain. The webbing is ultra low maintenance and super tough too.
I carried that 4.1 rig for a week in Gulf Shores while surf fishing almost daily too. A good test. The coated webbing worked better than expected.
Thanks for asking.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Make good sense.
What about a ceramic rod? Don't know if that's been mentioned. I would much prefer that considering I am a smoker (I know don't lecture) and I tend to carry at least two lighters and who knows how many stashed through my truck and packs.
Good grief, are there any actual "Questions for Ellie" here?
Question for Ellie!
Could you post a picture on any form of social media of an example of an Ugly Betty. I know they will all have different blemishes so maybe an example of worst case scenario or put a few in one pic or just the first one you pick up. Anything just to show what kind of ugliness you are talking about. Everybody here knows Guy has very high tolerances, but since these won't be under warranty we are curious how bad they are. I have two on order and will get what I get, but it may influence any further purchases. Thanks for your time and effort.
Do you have a rough idea when the UB4.7CFV's might be shipping out?
Are the 2.7 "Pre-Sales" on schedule?
Thank you for responding to my previous question. Communication is appreciated. My other question is about the GSO 12. I have one on order and was wondering if Guy has a sheath design for the curved blade yet. I am hoping it is not open on the back. I believe many would like to see the sheath design, since this is the only true New Survive! Design to stray from a straight blade. Please let us know what he has in mind if possible. It is as exciting as the knife design itself.