I'm trying to figure out what's best for a good axe handle. I've searched old posts on here as well as other places and I'm still confused. If I have this right raw linseed oil never drys. BLO seems to be good but some people are saying it has chemicals in it that are not good for you. Tung oil doesn't seem to be as popular but I haven't read anything bad about it other than it may take a few more coats. It sounds like its the best as far as protecting from water. I'm kind of leaning toward it right now. I've also read good things about waterlox, but it seems like an expensive option compared to the rest. So any pointers you guys could give me would be great! Thanks as always.
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raw linseed oil vs BLO vs tung oil vs anything else
- Thread starter kane22
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BLO is pretty much the standard, there are many BLO products that contain other varnishes and hardeners, try to get pure BLO. Most so-called Tung oils are not Tung oils but varnishes, pure Tung oil is available on the net and in a few high end wood working stores, no big box store I know of carries pure Tung oil.
My preferred treatment for wooden tool handles is a hot Bee's Wax bath in a mix of Bee's wax and any evaporating oil I happen to have on hand, either pure tung oil or BLO I also add a bit of lemon oil because I like the smell. I keep my mix in a thrift store crock pot on my bench and use a heat gun to warm the handle, brush the mix on and let soak deep into the pores of the wood the wipe off the excess.
My preferred treatment for wooden tool handles is a hot Bee's Wax bath in a mix of Bee's wax and any evaporating oil I happen to have on hand, either pure tung oil or BLO I also add a bit of lemon oil because I like the smell. I keep my mix in a thrift store crock pot on my bench and use a heat gun to warm the handle, brush the mix on and let soak deep into the pores of the wood the wipe off the excess.
If it's looks you're after and you don't use the implement very much nor leave it in an unheated place (trunk of the car, shed or garage) then old-fashioned Spar Varnish is just the ticket for maintaining/showing off 'pretty'.
Purpose of an oil finish is to reduce the effects of weathering (wind, sun and rain) as well as moderating sudden or extreme changes in humidity that cause shrinkage, checking and cracks. Virtually any oil will do this (I've watched forestry workers rub down wood handles with chainsaw oil) but one that doesn't remain tacky has obvious advantages, not so much for the wood, but for not attracting dust and dirt thereby allowing you to keep your hands clean. If you are risk-adverse to contact with potential 'bad chemicals' in BLO then similarly don't ever consider applying bug repellent on your skin.
I'm content to use Teak & Tung oil (fine print on the label says it's linseed oil based!) only because I've never managed to use up the quart that I bought for that purpose 35 years ago.
Purpose of an oil finish is to reduce the effects of weathering (wind, sun and rain) as well as moderating sudden or extreme changes in humidity that cause shrinkage, checking and cracks. Virtually any oil will do this (I've watched forestry workers rub down wood handles with chainsaw oil) but one that doesn't remain tacky has obvious advantages, not so much for the wood, but for not attracting dust and dirt thereby allowing you to keep your hands clean. If you are risk-adverse to contact with potential 'bad chemicals' in BLO then similarly don't ever consider applying bug repellent on your skin.
I'm content to use Teak & Tung oil (fine print on the label says it's linseed oil based!) only because I've never managed to use up the quart that I bought for that purpose 35 years ago.
Square_peg
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I've been starting with a couple coats or BLO because I think it penetrates and nourishes the wood better than tung oil. Then I top it with a couple coats of tung oil which makes a more water resistant finish and leaves the haft with a grippier feel. I'm happy with the results.
I'd like to try Real Milk Paint's 'Half & Half', a blend of true tung oil and citrus solvent. The citrus is said to help the tung oil penetrate the way that BLO does. This product might save me a few coats.
I'd like to try Real Milk Paint's 'Half & Half', a blend of true tung oil and citrus solvent. The citrus is said to help the tung oil penetrate the way that BLO does. This product might save me a few coats.
I was just looking at the Real Milk Paint's half and half. Their tung oil gets great reviews and the citrus helps to penetrate the wood better. I might give it a shot.
http://www.amazon.com/Real-Milk-Pai..._sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0PDQGSJ3BKX5HMCTZATH
Square_peg
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If you try it please report back. It's been on my wish list at Amazon for some months.
There's also a place in Sweden or Norway that sells real BOILED linseed oil without the metal dryers in it. Food safe. I'd like to try that, too. I've even considered buying raw linseed oil and boiling it myself, though it looks to be time intensive even for a small batch.
There's also a place in Sweden or Norway that sells real BOILED linseed oil without the metal dryers in it. Food safe. I'd like to try that, too. I've even considered buying raw linseed oil and boiling it myself, though it looks to be time intensive even for a small batch.
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"best" to me would be something that would:
1) Keep moisture, insects, fungus, etc. out.
2) Require no maintenance.
3) Have a nice feel.
And a pleasing look wouldn't hurt.
But I don't think I will find a product that does everything. If you are concerned with moisture (big priority for me) this table may be of some help.
Bob
BLO, atleast in years past used lead as its metallic dryer. used to say it right on the front of the can. not sure what metallic dryers are being used today, someone can look up an MSDS sheet on it and find out.
your can of 35 year old oil is most certainly has lead dryers in it.
it most certainly was/is chemically toxic, much more so than DEET or permethrin.
definitely should be wearing gloves latex/nitrile, whatever when rubbing in BLO to your handles. Danish oils and similar products are the same, and usually BLO based blends.
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i have used raw artist linseed oil on handles a couple times. it takes longer to harden, not months in my experience. i think Bernie from the famed "An Ax to Grind" uses raw linseed if i remember correctly.
the fact that the raw linseed oil doesnt harden isnt a deal breaker really, once you wipe off the excess, its not super tacky or wet feeling after a couple days. it supposedly penetrates deeper and keeps the wood from drying better. i remember someone saying raw is for penetrating deep and boiled is for a pretty protective layer on top of the wood. cant remember who or where i read it though. it seemed to take about two weeks to "cure" IIRC, but you cant leave a super thick coat like you can with BLO, as it will take months to cure. let it soak it well for a day or two, then wipe off ALL of the excess oil, wait a few hours, wipe of any that seeps out, repeat for a day or so, then let it cure.
that said. i generally use danish oils of different tints from medium walnut to black walnut. pops grain very well and gives a great compromise between hard varnish and soft oil finishes. best of both worlds in my opinion. its "hard wearing" and absolutely gorgeous on hickory.
the fact that the raw linseed oil doesnt harden isnt a deal breaker really, once you wipe off the excess, its not super tacky or wet feeling after a couple days. it supposedly penetrates deeper and keeps the wood from drying better. i remember someone saying raw is for penetrating deep and boiled is for a pretty protective layer on top of the wood. cant remember who or where i read it though. it seemed to take about two weeks to "cure" IIRC, but you cant leave a super thick coat like you can with BLO, as it will take months to cure. let it soak it well for a day or two, then wipe off ALL of the excess oil, wait a few hours, wipe of any that seeps out, repeat for a day or so, then let it cure.
that said. i generally use danish oils of different tints from medium walnut to black walnut. pops grain very well and gives a great compromise between hard varnish and soft oil finishes. best of both worlds in my opinion. its "hard wearing" and absolutely gorgeous on hickory.
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Tung oil stands up to weather better and lasts a lot longer. I use it on all my wood handles: axes, knives, shovels, etc.
If you methodically search through the fine print of many of the Circa 1850 and MinWax offerings of Teak, Teak & Tung, and Tung oils the primary ingredients typically list only mineral spirits and linseed alkyd polymer. That's not to say there is no Tung oil in there but likely not very much either.
apparently this can be found on some BLO cans...
"Use of this product will expose you to arsenic, beryllium, chromium, cadmium and nickel, which are known to cause cancer; and lead which is known to cause birth defects and other reproductive harm."
hows that for metallic dryers? comparison to common insect repellent is not good for the health of anyone reading that statement IMO.
wear gloves guys.
"Use of this product will expose you to arsenic, beryllium, chromium, cadmium and nickel, which are known to cause cancer; and lead which is known to cause birth defects and other reproductive harm."
hows that for metallic dryers? comparison to common insect repellent is not good for the health of anyone reading that statement IMO.
wear gloves guys.
Will do, I think it's at the top of my list right now.
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Thanks for the table. dipped paraffin wax seems to be excellent and isn't that just what modern candles are made of and this easy to get and cheap and most likely very safe."best" to me would be something that would:
1) Keep moisture, insects, fungus, etc. out.
2) Require no maintenance.
3) Have a nice feel.
And a pleasing look wouldn't hurt.
Bob
Only problem might be that it rubs off when being used more than thinner oils which penetrate the wood deeper.
Or maybe not if it was hot enough and soaked for a long time?
How hot can one go on a wood handle before damaging it?
Thank you. [emoji2]
Square_peg
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I don't usually soak my axes in water for 14 days at a time. They see a bit of rain. But they get dried out a few hours later.