rawhide question.

Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
13,182
Hey Y'all,

I was wondering if I had a deer or goat hide and wanted to just let it dry out rawhide like, you know stiff, how I might go about removing the hair from it so both sides would be bare? Lye? Any suggestions??
 
lye & scraping off the hair, don't forget rubber gloves and goggles, ventilation, caustic burns smart a bit. test small piece first...make sure all the fat is scraped off beforehand....keep kids, pets, etc away. messy

google search may help re solution strength, timing, etc... smells a bit too so the wife may be a bit concerned....
 
HD?

If you burn hardwood in your stove, you can collect a pail-ful and pour water in it, then soak the hide in it for a few days. It is messy, but it serves.

Turns into ?potash? Be careful, ends up as lye.

If you are really a glutton for punishment, you can make your own lye, use rendered bacon grease, or goat or any other fat, water, and make your own soap.
I've made it with bacon grease, lamb fat, and venison and beef fat.

Tedious, but neat to have done.

http://www.turtletrack.org/Issues02/Co01122002/CO_01122002_Tanning_1.htm
 
more than you want to know available in books, from the reconstructed tandy leather company, www.tandyleather.com. in keeping w/latest 'zombie' threads, perhaps you'd like to try a 'brain' tan? i don't see it on the website, but i am almost positive they offer a kit, designed for a medium-sized skin (deer). if you hit the site and look for a store near you and call them, they should be able to identify it. they generally ship from a store near you anyway, however you order.
ab
 
From aaanativearts.com

Domestic sheep and goat hides can be used for drum heads, but will produce a very thin skin and are easy to tear. They also wear out faster and produce a very high pitched drum.

Pig is extremely thick, much more difficult to work with, and harder to dehair but works well where extra strength is needed and can be substituted for moose or buffalo for moccasin soles and works well for heavy pack bags.

Bear is also a bit more difficult for the novice to work with and will require a lot of scraping to remove excess fatty tissue. You probably wouldn't want to waste a bearskin for rawhide, anyway.

The skins from male animals are usually thicker than the females. Elk is generally the preferred hide for making a quality drum, producing a head with a rich but mellow sound, but deer hide is often used, particularly for women's hand drums.

Goat hides are an acceptable substitute and will probably be more readily available. They are a bit thinner than deer but are often used as a cheaper substitute by commercial drum producers.

However, goatskin drums won't give you as rich a sound and it's easy to tear them when lacing your drum if you stretch them too tight or cut your lacing holes too close to the edge.

Cow hide would most closely compare to elk, but is slightly thicker. Horse hide would be similar to buffalo, although just a bit thinner.

Prepared rawhide can be purchased at some large craft stores and saddlery shops. However, it usually comes in large sheets and can be quite expensive. Making your own rawhide is much easier than tanning a hide for the novice, and quite inexpensive.

Usually the cost for materials needed for a large hide are under $10.00, while a similar hide purchased from a leather outlet or craft store would run around $45 to $100.00, depending on the animal, the size of the hide and supply in your area.

The hard part that requires some elbow grease is scraping all visible fat from the under surface of the hide. There are commercial tools for this, or use a flat knife that is a comfortable size for your hand.

Careful skinning can greatly reduce this chore. Stretch the raw hide out the best you can on a flat surface and stake it down. You can do this outdoors on the ground, or nail it to a piece of plywood or a wall in your garage.

Remove as much of the visible fat and meat as you can, scraping with the grain of the hide and being careful not to cut it. Stretching the hide as tightly as you can will help prevent nicks and tears in the hide from the scraping process.

Once this chore is done, turning a raw skin into rawhide is a fairly simple process. Simply fill a large container (your bathtub works great for this if you can do without it for a couple days) that is large enough to hold the hide without excessively crowding it with about four to six inches of lukewarm water.

As you are running the water pour in about two pounds of lime (which you can purchase at your local garden center labeled as fertilizer) into the tub or container and stir it around until the lime is dissolved. Add the raw hide and swish it around until it is thoroughly saturated.

You may want to wear rubber gloves as you do this, since lime is very drying to your hands.

Weight the hide down with a couple rocks, cement blocks, or other heavy object to hold it under the water and let it soak for about twenty-four hours. Every few hours remove the weight and swish the hide around a bit and turn it over to be sure all parts of the hide are being exposed to the lime.

After twenty-four hours check to see if the hair is beginning to loosen. When it is ready, most of the hair should pull off easily with a gentle tug. You may have to scrape the hide some to remove small, fine hairs completely. This is particularly true with pig skin.

Depending on the temperature, size and thickness of the hide, it will take about one or two days for the hair to loosen. On thinner, small hides such as rabbit, it may only take a few hours to get the hair off. Don't leave the hide in the lime solution longer than is necessary because the lime will weaken the hide if you leave it too long.

In warm weather or in a heated house, if the hide is not ready after twenty-four hours, you should drain the water and repeat the process of adding more lime and fresh water, or your hide will become smelly.

Once the hair comes off readily in your hand, scrape the hide with a flat bladed knife or other object with a straight edge, going with the grain of the hide. The hair should come off easily.

Drain the tub and clean up what you can of the resulting mess. Be sure to put a washrag or other barrier over the drain opening as you do this so you don't plug up the drain with excessive hair.

Rinse the hide under the running faucet until all traces of hair are gone and wring it gently several times to flush out the lime residue.

Fill the tub again, adding a small can of cream of tarter and about half a box of baking soda. Let the hide soak a couple more hours in this solution, then rinse thoroughly again several more times.

This will give the hide a white almost translucent color and finish removing all traces of the lime, which can break down the cells of the hide.

Wring out as much of the water as you can. Your hide is now rawhide.

You can stretch it out on a flat surface where it will get good air circulation, or fold it over a clothesline and let it dry for later use or use it immediately.

If you want to save it for later use, once the rawhide is dry, roll it gently and tie with a string for storage.

When you are ready to use the rawhide, soak it again in a five gallon bucket until it is soft again, usually about twelve to twenty-four hours, depending on the thickness of the hide.

If the hide is taller than the bucket, just put one end in the water, then keep pushing it down as the lower part softens.

Once it is hydrated again, you can cut it into strips or shapes with ordinary scissors. If you don't need it all, you can just dry out the remaining pieces and store again until needed.

If you soak a piece of rawhide, then something comes up and you aren't ready to use it when you planned, you can keep it hydrated for a few days and it won't hurt it as long as you change the water at least once or twice a day, depending on the temperature.

However, repeated soakings for a long time will give it a yellowish cast and weaken the hide, particularly in warm weather, so it is best to use it as soon as it is fully hydrated.

.
 
Hollow, I just use a scraper and scrape the hair off if I want it removed, or used to when I was able. I don't like the way lye does the hide and is unnecessary.
I haven't seen it for awhile and think it's in the shed with the last deer hide I scraped but I have a scraper made from an elk antler and a piece of machine hacksaw blade. The trick is to grind like an 8" radius on the end of the 1" wide blade and then round the corners slightly.
Another option is a knife like the Green River Buffalo Skinner, you know, the ones with the real up-swept blade?
I have an ultra thin edge on mine, maybe 10*-15* on a side and then a slight secondary bevel, actually a convex and stropped to an ultra scary sharp edge.
It does well as a scraper too!!!! :D :cool:
When you brain tan you want the scarf scraped off anyway and I find it's easier to do while scraping the hair off rather than loosening the hair with lye and then still having to scrape anyway.

The biggest thing is to stretch the hide in a frame. A trick is to use large 10 penny galvanized nails inserted in the edge of the hide and then loop the rope around them instead of lacing the rope through holes punched along the edges.
I use four individual ropes so I can tighten each one individually, saves a helluva lot of time and misery.

My frame is made from 2" X 4"s bolted together at the corners and with 16 penny nails every few inches around the perimeter to hold the lacing ropes. I've had it for years and it takes up very little room.

Edit, after reading Nasty's post:;)
The nice thing about the frame is that you can get to the hide from both sides. I also use the Skinning knife to get all the fat and other undesirable crap off the flesh side.
It also helps the hide to dry faster having both sides open to the air.
 
I've seen Yvsa's setup and like it better than the directions posted, but thought I would offer it until he got here to give his own report! :D

.
 
You could always try human skin. I know some pretty thick-skinned a$$holes.
I'd be happy to skin them and send you the hides.
 
In W.Va. where I grew up, my older relatives used to tan deer hides with the deer's brains. Since I was a kid at the time, details are a little sketchy, but Grandpa used to say "each deer has just enough brains to tan his hide". I remember them rubbing the brains into the hide, and scraping the guk off later, but what , if anything, they added to the brains, I do not know. Salt?
 
jurassicnarc44 said:
In W.Va. where I grew up, my older relatives used to tan deer hides with the deer's brains. Since I was a kid at the time, details are a little sketchy, but Grandpa used to say "each deer has just enough brains to tan his hide". I remember them rubbing the brains into the hide, and scraping the guk off later, but what , if anything, they added to the brains, I do not know. Salt?
Brains!

this is degenerating into another zombie thread.
 
I did a hair removal on a drum I made from cowhide and a wooden oak whisky barrel (smelled great!).

I used "Beard Remover" from a local old-time drugstore. Came in an old-fashioned can about the size of a small can of Comet. Worked very well.
 
Noah Zark said:
The older I get, it seems the thinner mine gets. 'Roids are a pain in the butt.

Noah
Noah, I have to totally disagree with you.;) :D 'Roids are not just a simple pain in the butt.:( :grumpy:

They are a Royal Pain in the ASS!!!! :rolleyes: :p
Had mine cut out in '69 and haven't looked back since, no pun intended.;)
 
jurassicnarc44 said:
I remember them rubbing the brains into the hide, and scraping the guk off later,
but what , if anything, they added to the brains, I do not know. Salt?
Emphasis mine.

Just the brains Mac, just the brains. Your grandpa was spot on.;) :D

I've heard that Ivory Soap will work as well to tan a hide but I don't know. Why mess with a good thing that's been done the same way since the beginning of time?
That's another thing that I would like to know how man discovered.
What? Did one day a man say, "Hey! I have an idea, let us rub those grey nasty things in the deer's head on the skin to make it soft and pliable so we can make clothes that don't chafe *our* skin."
That discovery along with the Atlatl, the bow and arrow, agriculture are all interesting to ponder how and why they came about.:confused:
Each one made it easier and easier to obtain food and therefore gain more leisure time.
I read somewhere that the anthropologists had figured that primitive hunters and gatherers only had to work about 3 hours a day for their food and lodging and all the comforts of home.:D :cool: :D
Then some arsehole invented work and money.:rolleyes: :grumpy: :mad: :(
 
jurassicnarc44 said:
Thanks, Yvsa. Trying to dredge up old memories from over fifty years ago.... and not too successfully... :confused:
Yea Mac. I damned sure know what that's like! :grumpy: ;) :D
For a kid I did pay a lot of attention to things ndn and family but being a kid I sometimes wanted to go play instead of listening to the older folks tell their stories. But even at that I still learned a lot by listening and I listened more than the other kids did.
I learned early on that the elders did have a lot to say and I still know that.
Some of these old ndns around here have memories as sharp as a tack and forty times longer!!!! Their stories are wonderful, too bad someone doesn't put it all in a book, but then it wouldn't appeal to a lot of folks I guess.:(

There may still be some deer brain's in our freezer.;)
I never did get around to brain tanning a hide though.
And it's not just deer that can be brained tanned; each animal has just enough brains to tan its hide.
Says a lot for us human beings with our overly large brains, ainnit? :rolleyes: :p ;) :D
 
Thanks Y'all for the info. I'm not interested in tanning it. I want to try to keep it as starchy and stiff as possible. Sounds like what Nasty and Yvsa posted is what I'm looking for.
 
hollowdweller said:
Thanks Y'all for the info. I'm not interested in tanning it. I want to try to keep it as starchy and stiff as possible. Sounds like what Nasty and Yvsa posted is what I'm looking for.
Hollow get all the fat you can scrape off the hide off as the fat will have a tendency to tan the hide a bit. Doing it in a frame lets you move the hide around and lets you set it in the direct sunlight which will help whiten it.
A good dish detergent like Dawn will also help in getting the soaked in fat out.

Whacha gonna do with it if I may ask? If you're gonna make a drum I have some good tips fer that too that I learned the hard way through experience.;) :D
 
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