ray skin prep for handle

M

Mungo Park

Joined
Jan 23, 2005
Messages
337
I have not been able to find any info about how to prep ray skin for a handle.

I can find lots on how to get it on the handle. What I have is a raw rayslin, not dyed. It is very rough and I would like any info on how to sand/polish the denticles. From what I read, which is limited the rough skin is somehow polished so it is a little more smother and the rough bumps are worn down somewhat. Sorry I do not know the names for these things but would like some guidance of how this is done. Since this skin is so tough I could mess with this for a while and get nowhere.
Cheers Ron
 
Check out www.leatherchemist.org
They have some interesting info over there. From the looks of it its a curing process not a matter or sanding. I had a buddy who used to tumble his rayskins in some toxic mess. He's passed on now. Probably from some of the chemicals he used.

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Last edited:
The formulation of tanning fish skin(formaldehyde)/sting ray:

Soaking:water 500%, CaOCL2 1% soak overnight(PH 9-10)
Liming:Water 300%,lime 4%,salt 2%(PH 12)(36 Hours)
Fleshing:-
Weigh the skin !

Deliming:Water 400%,Urea 2%,formic acid 0,5%(PH7,5)(45 minutes and soak overnight)
Bating:protease enzyme 1%(2 hours and soak overnight)
Degreasing:Water 100%,degreasing agent 2%(60 minutes)
Wash

Discolouration I:Water 400%,salt 20%,stir 10 minutes and move it from that liquor!
Water 200%,,salt 15%,stir 15 minutes
Natrium Bisulphite(NaHSO3) 3%,stir 60 minutes

Discolouration II:New Float
Water 100%,salt 10%,stir 70 minutes
Natrium Hipocloride(NaOCL)3%,stir 30 minutes
Natrium Bisulphite(NaHSO3)2,5,soak over night

Forlmaldehyde tanning:Water 200%
Natrium Sulphate(Glauber Salt)5% stir 5 minutes(PH5)
Natrium Asetat(NaCH3COOH)2% stir 120 minutes(PH4)Move 75% liquor
used water25%
Formalin 4-5% stir 4 hours

Water 100%
Natrium Formiat(NaCOOH) 1% add 3 feeds@15 minutes
natrium Bicarbonate 1,5 % add 3 feeds@15 minutes,stir 120 minutes and soak overnight

anging over night

wash I: water(much of water)

Wash II: water 400 %,Natrium Sulphate(Na2SO4)1,5% stir 60 minutes

Retanning: Water 100%
Formalin 2%,stir 10 minutes
Glutaraldehyde 2% stir 60 minutes
soap 0,25% stir 30 minutes
Natrium Acetate(NaCH3COOH)1,2 %stir 40 minutes
Natrium Bicarbonate(NahCo3)1% stir 40 minutes(PH 6,5)

Fatliquoring:Water 150%(70 Degrees)
Fatliquor 8% stir 90 minutes

Dyes:Water 150%(60 Degrees),Dyestup 3%,ammonia2% stir 60 minutes
antifungi 0,05% stir 20 minutes

wash

Drying,softening,staking and give top coat...
Good Luck...

http://www.leatherchemists.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=367
 
Ray skin used on swords is not tanned to the degree used for wallets, shoes, etc. When used on Japanese swords, the rawhide is simply soaked in water, cut and bound to the handle with adhesive. When dry, as stiff as before.

Smoothing and polishing are simply a matter of abrasives. "But how?" Anything abrasive. Most use abrasive papers these days.

Similarly, sharkskin and fish skin (ray) (shagreen) used on European military swords do not use tanned skins.

Cheers

GC
 
GC, yes that is what I was looking for, the skin I have is grey and the denticles ate nor rounded in any way. So just a matter of giving it a go with a a block wrapped with sandpaper, and if things are slow a try on the 2X72 120 belt. I am wanting to smooth it out a little and have some white come out just for looks.
Lots of info on getting the skin on the wood but little on this part.
Cheers Ron.
 
Mungo Park said:
GC, yes that is what I was looking for, the skin I have is grey and the denticles ate nor rounded in any way. So just a matter of giving it a go with a a block wrapped with sandpaper, and if things are slow a try on the 2X72 120 belt. I am wanting to smooth it out a little and have some white come out just for looks.
Lots of info on getting the skin on the wood but little on this part.
Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...

You have to start with the whitest skin you can get, it will not improve with sanding....maybe bleach?

Don't know, but I reject any skins that are greyish at all.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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