"Real world" 420HC vs S30V?

I am good at sharpening a blade any blade.. I used a 440c and 420hc 110 real hard for years.
But when i went to s30v .... it is jest better ... it is a tad more brittle and is harder to sharpen if it gets real dull...
For every day work use or hunting
Will take s30v ! There is not time to sharpen properly at work and dressing kill...
Ibhave NOT tried other supper steels... i expect they are like s30v or " better"
Its a users call.
Between the two you said of ... get s30v ...
 
Since it's resurrected..I use to think for light use not a whole lot of difference but the Club 301 won me over to BG42..
 
The OP hasn't been back for over a year.
I guess we'll never know which blade he went with.
 
Some people don't prefer s30v because it takes longer to sharpen from dull or re profiling. It also requires diamonds to get the most out of sharpening it. But it will last longer when properly sharpened. It's up to you.

The only way your going to know if it's right for you is if you get some and try it out.
 
I can process 4 Cornish meat birds with a blade of 420 steel. Double that with a blade of 440C. Then 2 more using a blade of S30V (10). About 2 more using S60V (12)and 2 more using s90v (14). So, not a lot of difference among the upper steels. A lot from the lower.
Sharpening takes maybe 4-5 mins. longer than 440C. One should use SiC or diamond. DM
 
I can process 4 Cornish meat birds with a blade of 420 steel. Double that with a blade of 440C. Then 2 more using a blade of S30V (10). About 2 more using S60V (12)and 2 more using s90v (14). So, not a lot of difference among the upper steels. A lot from the lower.
Sharpening takes maybe 4-5 mins. longer than 440C. One should use SiC or diamond. DM
some of the best testing as its real world. I enjoyed your testing with bucks 110s all similar setups other than the steel. cant get much better than that. it's in the farm thread correct Sir? maybe we should try to make a new thread with that info? I could do some cut and pasting and pic moving into one or you could if you still have the pics and know where to find the info? be a real good sticky thread up top, if 300 allowed it?
 
Well, I bought one of those diamond rods and tried sharpening some super steels, but I swear the diamond rod has worn smooth in spots , maybe my imagination. I got an Alaskan Guide 110 with S30v and everytime I go to deer camp I take it with me, but just keep using a regular 420hc 110. Found a huge Arkansas hard stone in my father in laws barn and with Bucks 420HC and also Case steel, I really look like I know what I'm doing in the sharpening department. ( I don't)
 
Well, I bought one of those diamond rods and tried sharpening some super steels, but I swear the diamond rod has worn smooth in spots , maybe my imagination. I got an Alaskan Guide 110 with S30v and everytime I go to deer camp I take it with me, but just keep using a regular 420hc 110. Found a huge Arkansas hard stone in my father in laws barn and with Bucks 420HC and also Case steel, I really look like I know what I'm doing in the sharpening department. ( I don't)
You may have used way to much pressure and ruined the diamonds. I'm unsure but that does seem to be common among people new to diamonds (including myself). Light pressure is idea. If that's not the case I'm unsure what the problem is. Would recommend diamond stones unless you have a recurve. There are bonded diamond stones that will not be as affected to pressure. The diamonds are suspended in something. They make them with different kinds of bonding material from metal to organic epoxy. And the stones can be refreshed by different methods depending on the style you choose. Hope that helps you out. The maintenance and tinkering subforum has some great threads and people to help ya with any sharpening issues.
 
jec, the Alaskan Guide is a nice knife. One I hope you can sharpen and use. If you were able to get it sharp for the week of deer camp, it
would last to do all your deer. You would just have to sharpen it once a year. DM
 
Diamond sharpeners are like sharp knives. You don’t have to use as much pressure to cut material. And to much pressure will just pop the diamonds off the substrate. I use light pressure on s30v and 20cv blades and found that it is faster to get sharp and easier to control the angles. Slow down and you will have a more harmonious outcome. Yes Buck 420hc Bos heat treat is good lower end blade steel, I’d say from my experience about 2-3 times as good as other 420hc that I’ve used but my Boss30v blades are so much better there’s no comparison. my Bos 20cv so far is very impressive but haven’t had it long enough to really test it in a meaningful way.
 
Diamond sharpeners are like sharp knives. You don’t have to use as much pressure to cut material. And to much pressure will just pop the diamonds off the substrate. I use light pressure on s30v and 20cv blades and found that it is faster to get sharp and easier to control the angles. Slow down and you will have a more harmonious outcome. Yes Buck 420hc Bos heat treat is good lower end blade steel, I’d say from my experience about 2-3 times as good as other 420hc that I’ve used but my Boss30v blades are so much better there’s no comparison. my Bos 20cv so far is very impressive but haven’t had it long enough to really test it in a meaningful way.
Seems a bit low to me in comparison to Benchmade, spyderco and zt.

t4pw0yv.jpg


ZKOHmiX.jpg


Iirc optimal is around 61 give or take. 58-59 is lower than most. I assume this is to make it easier to sharpen. Wonder if they just skipped cryo?
 
No cryogenic quench would have not been skipped. If that is 420 then it's on target as 58 IS what Buck targets in their heat treat for that steel as stated in their catalog. It's good your hardness tested has recently been calibrated, you should know the ATSM standard is +- 1 unit. So, this blade is good. DM
 
You do always see in any regard to BOS heat treat as excellent.

In 2007 Bos was the recipient of the "Blade Magazine Industry Achievement Award" for the contributions and advances he made in heat treating technology. Furthermore, in 2010 he was inducted into the "Blade Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame©" in recognition of nearly 50 years as the foremost authority on the heat treatment of steel for knife blades
 
No cryogenic quench would have not been skipped. If that is 420 then it's on target as 58 IS what Buck targets in their heat treat for that steel as stated in their catalog. It's good your hardness tested has recently been calibrated, you should know the ATSM standard is +- 1 unit. So, this blade is good. DM
Its 20cv not 420
 
I refer to the quote who mentioned 20cv and the knife in the photo is 20cv from skblades.
be better as it's own thread. interesting topic to be discussed.....
 
Back
Top