How To Recognizing and removing wire edge?

Sonnydaze said:
If you see ANY light reflecting from your edge, then you have NOT sharpened to the apex and removed any existing burr. A fine edge reflects no light.
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Well we need to find out what angle he is lookinf at the edge first before we can make that statement.

Looking at a fine edge from directly above the edge should not reflect light. It should be too thin there for the light to bounce back directly towards your eye.

So for example if we image this letter V was the edge you would be looking at the V from directly below looking straight up.
 
I pull the edge lightly through the corner of the work bench.
Low pressure slice a lot entire edge.
 
Bo-dacious said:
Hey guys, I'm having a problem getting my knives sharp on the Worksharp Blade grinding attatchment. A lot of people think it's a wire edge problem.

First, is a burr and a wire edge the same thing?

When I look at the edge in the light the very apex of the edge kind of lights up. Is that a wire edge? If not, how do you recognize one?

Assuming it is, I want to try to remove it. I tried with a piece of wood, but that only made a minor difference. Someone suggested a felt burr removing block. Would that work?

Can you guys give me more options for burr removal?

Thanks for the help guys,

Bo
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I simply run the edge on a hard wood bloc to remove the burr and strop carefully to recover the damages done by the wood bloc repeating this operation with lighter and lighter pressure each run you should be able to bring the edge in a descent condition.

Most of the time you will get this problem on cheap cooking knife. The burr instead of falling with stropping becomes a foil attached to the apex normaly this will occur when the knife is almost sharp and should fall off when the apex is reaching it's paroxysm. if does not it is a sign of problematic steel used to make the blade.
 
Here is how i check for burr. Use flashlight in dark place. After you know what to look for it doesn't have to be dark anymore and you can use a lamp of some kind.

9j4zNq7h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9j4zNq7.jpg HD picture.

Usually this burr gets smaller and starts to flip from one side to the other as I'm not increasing angle to remove but maintain the angle. If you increase angle you can get rid of it faster. I do edge leading strokes. On diamonds and spyderco stones.

At times it's a lot of flip flopping for me to get rid of this wire edge and it could be in a certain spot only. I make it smaller by going to higher grit and using lighter pressure.
When it's still small enough for me to see it, it does not come off by running on a wood block or stroping without compound. Atleast on supersteels I'm using. I'm not able to feel anything with my finger at this point but can still see it.

If you get rid of it properly before you strop your edge will last a long time and be sharp. Without fully removing it or making it very small, edge still feels sharp and will shave and all that...
 
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You mentioned you're using the blade grinding attachment, that means trailing strokes. I've found with mine, on cheap steel, that you can get a burr in one stroke (after apexing) even with their finest grit. Stropping is required. The 18 x 1" belt and rouge seems to do the job.
 
It keeps coming back to the knives you are attempting to sharpen, you stated that they are pretty cheap, that steel often will not take a very good edge and will sit there and the burr will flap in the breeze until you are tired of it.

I'd suggest trying a knife with known good properties, even some inexpensive folders will have steel that you can get a very good edge.

I'd recommend picking up an Opinel #8 not a lot of money and will serve you a long time, plus help you with your sharpening skills.

Here is a link to BladeHQ site they are a paid dealer here in Bladeforums.

G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
It keeps coming back to the knives you are attempting to sharpen, you stated that they are pretty cheap, that steel often will not take a very good edge and will sit there and the burr will flap in the breeze until you are tired of it.

I'd suggest trying a knife with known good properties, even some inexpensive folders will have steel that you can get a very good edge.

I'd recommend picking up an Opinel #8 not a lot of money and will serve you a long time, plus help you with your sharpening skills.

Here is a link to BladeHQ site they are a paid dealer here in Bladeforums.

G2
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Interesting, I was going to post a thread regarding a recommendation for a cheaper knife whereas I could practice a bit on my freehand and you recommend the Opinel #8. I did not notice on their website what Blade Steel this knife is made from, maybe I missed it? But, as you noted, the price is right for a practice knife.
 
Rhodies said:
Interesting, I was going to post a thread regarding a recommendation for a cheaper knife whereas I could practice a bit on my freehand and you recommend the Opinel #8. I did not notice on their website what Blade Steel this knife is made from, maybe I missed it? But, as you noted, the price is right for a practice knife.
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I think they use 12c27 for the stainless...I'm not sure what they use for the carbon steel versions. Both take a nice edge.
 
Opinel's stainless is Sandvik 12C27Mod. Their 'Carbone' (non-stainless) blades are made from XC90 steel (French), similar to AISI 1086.
 
Great video wootzblade wootzblade .

I love your process and the imperially derived results.

I myself use a hanging strop but tend to get better results on my hard backed diamond strops. Would applying diamond spray to the hanging strip provide negative results due to the propensity to round the apex?

Thanks
 
Craig James said:
Great video wootzblade wootzblade .

I love your process and the imperially derived results.

I myself use a hanging strop but tend to get better results on my hard backed diamond strops. Would applying diamond spray to the hanging strip provide negative results due to the propensity to round the apex?

Thanks
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Sure you do. We too.
Hanging strop is not for deburring - it is part of finishing the deburred edge. Cleaning the edge apex for better retention.
Hanging strop is good in removing the wire edge, not deburring as such. We therefore use no abrasives with it.
Kangaroo tail works the best of all known hanging strops in removing the wire edge.

I've summarised my experience with them here: Knife Grinders

Todd Simpson uses 0.25 micron diamonds on a hanging strop, yet finishes on a plain strop.
 
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