Recommend a good file set.

SkagSig40

SkagSig40

Joined
Feb 1, 2001
Messages
2,671
Hey guys,
I'm a brand-new knife maker and I am gathering tools that I will need to complete some blades. I need a decent file set and I'm wondering what you guys use and recommend? I'd like to get some round files for cutting small sharpening Choils, helping clean up plunge cuts, testing for proper hardness and many other tasks files would be good for. Thanks for any help and input!
 
Nicholson chainsaw files for cutting choils.

Grobet Vallorbe files for metal, wood and Micarta. Something cheaper for G10 since the glass content will trash the teeth fairly fast. 10-12" bastard cut flat or hand file, 10" bastard square, 10" Mill, 6" bastard or second square, 6-8" half round in two cuts, say bastard and second; set of needle files, flat, crossing, knife and round. That is a basic set that will do blades and handles. Slotting guards is a bit more specialised and what you get depends on the size and type of guard you make. I have a warding file that is a big help with guards for thinner blades, and a couple of 4" hand files, one of which has had all the teeth ground off except for one narrow side.

I also use a cabinet maker's rasp for handle shaping (avoiding metal pins, bolts and tangs).

Testing for hardness...if you aren't going to get a set of hardness testing files, have one file that you use for nothing else but testing. The sharpness of the teeth will influence how easily it skates and you don't want to be using the file and dulling the teeth between testing blades.
 
I use these:
- Nicholson files
- Grobet Vallorbe files

_____________
Riccardo Mainolfi
 
I agree whole heartedly with the first post. I use all of those and more. Files are the primary tool I use, honestly. I mean, the forge, the hydraulic press, and the belt grinder do most of the shaping of things (and the disc sander, anvil, mill, wood, and metal bandsaws, hacksaws, jeweler's saw, etc.). But, most everything gets filed at some point along the way. Most things get filed with 2 or 3 files. A coarse double cut, and smoother single cut, and then drawfiled with a smooth single cut. Round or half-round for inside curves, flat for outside curves. Saves money in abrasives in the long run, and files do good work once you get the touch with them. Keep a brush and a wire file card handy. Brush them often, card them every time the brush won't get stuff out. By often I mean every minute or so in regular use. Plus, any time you have even a hint of galling the work, wait and fix the file by clearing it totally.

Galling - loading teeth with sharp metal that can even weld on due to the heat of friction and pressure. Then, the sharp metal cuts across the work. Deep gouges. Long strokes and hard pressure increase this. If you use moderate to light pressure, shorter strokes, and clear the file by lifting it a little, and keeping chips brushed or blown away that helps a ton. Larger files gall less but often you just need a 4" smooth file to get to the finish you want. In those cases, just don't rush. Short, light, and careful. Every time you gall the work, you have to essentially start over with the smooth file.

Learn to love them. Nothing else is as versatile.
 
I just recently got some Glardon Vallorbe files and they work amazingly. Much better than any other file I have tried.
 
I like the Nicholson NOS (new, old stock) Made in the USA
i get them on ebay

newer ones made in Brazil and Mexico don't seem to have quite the same hardness or bite as the older ones.
 
Thanks gentlemen! So do you purchase these individually or is there a kit you can buy that includes everything? Also where would you recommend purchasing these at? Thanks again!
 
Purchase individually.

I reckon the word is "set" rather than "kit". I think a kit implies a selection of different items which work or combine together (puncture repair kits, survival kits, first aid) where a set is a selection of very similar items meant for use individually.

You can purchase needle files as sets, but for my money any saving there might have been per file by getting the set is offset by having to take two or three shapes of file that I don't want or need. I have never seen the larger files as sets. For fun, you can have a look here to see just how varied they are:
https://view.publitas.com/p222-4917/grobet-usa-precision-file-catalog/page/42-43
http://www.grobetusa.com/content/APfile15flyer.pdf


Beware of tools sold in sets, and even more of anything sold as a "kit". As a rule, kits are aimed at people who are not very savvy or serious and frequently contain lower quality items than you would get if you put the thing together yourself. With pre-packaged sets a lot of people buy them because they don't know exactly what they might need so they get the set to cover all bases. Then what happens is they figure out what they need, and that it wasn't included in that set! Often the majority of the set never sees use. If you haven't paid enough for that to bother you, chances are the tools aren't all that good. I know that is generalizing, but it has been my experience so far.

Sorry, can't help with a local source for you. I would probably be googling and find my way to MSC, Orro Frie or similar. Vallorbe do both Precision and standard industrial files and there is a big price difference. Given what I have paid for mine, I am pretty sure mine are not the precision type but I am still very happy with them. I buy from Axminster here in the UK, to give an idea of the prices I pay.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/search/?q=vallorbe&nR[visibility_search][=][0]=1&
 
The Stihl chainsaw files are my favourite for small to medium work. I think they are made by pherd, or grobet iirc. I get my detail files from Lee valley. The needle files and rasps are excellent. They're diamond files are quite good too. They're pricey, but have paid for themselves many times over in time savings, and in how long they last. On an unrelated note, the hss twist drills at Lee valley are better than any ti coated twist drills from the hardware stores. Not as good as cobalt, but they're well worth the money.
 
I get the Vallorbe's from Otto Frei or Rio Grande. They are jeweler's supply stores. Just google them. I have been buying them individually just because I want specific ones, and I'm still in school, so buying individually works better for me as I don't have much spending money.
 
Not mentioned but for shaping handle I like to use a japanese saw rasp. I am pretty sure that a hand stitched rasp would do a better job but the price difference is huge, compared to machine stitched rasps I like the result of the saw rasp better.
 
Wow! That's a lot of info! I'm not even sure what most of these files are let alone what they do! I was planning on shaping most of my handles with my belt grinder. I've been told several times by different knife makers that you can use files to clean up your plunge cuts. What exact file is that again? And I didn't even realize there were specific files for testing hardness. I always just used a Nicholson fine tooth file to see how it's skated across the surface of the blade towards the edge. I'll look into all of the above that you guys have posted and see if I can figure it out. I appreciate all the help!
 
HSC /// said:
I like the Nicholson NOS (new, old stock) Made in the USA
i get them on ebay

newer ones made in Brazil and Mexico don't seem to have quite the same hardness or bite as the older ones.
Click to expand...

I agree, Nicholson NOS.
 
If you plan on doing any heavy file removal, like on a sword, the Magicut files are really great. Get a 14" one and go to town. They cut very aggressively, but leave a smoother surface.


I will point out the number one reason people don't get a good life from a file - They saw back and forth when filing.
You cut on the down stroke, lift the file off the metal, and return to the top for the next stroke. If you pull the file across the steel on the return stroke you will kill the teeth in no time at all.

Another reason for failure is the work ( the steel) vibrating during the filing. The steel should be firmly clamped on a solid wood arm so it does not move or vibrate. A 2X4 screwed to the bench or locked in the vise jaws is great.
 
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