Recommendations for a decent spokeshave?

D

drew2

Joined
Feb 24, 2007
Messages
28
I have a few "new" heads in need of handles and I'd like to get a spokeshave to trim down the new handles both for fitting the heads and generally slimming down the handles. Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent one? Am I ok just ordering something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-951-SpokeShave-Flat-Base/dp/B00002X1ZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366689938&sr=8-1&keywords=spokeshave

or do I want the curved base?

http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D3659-Convex-Spokeshave/dp/B005W0ZWWO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1366689871&sr=8-3&keywords=spokeshave
 
Why not buy both? The price is not bad. I've bought all my spokeshaves at flea markets or old tool swaps. You won't find a used spokeshave much cheaper than those new ones. Expect to invest some time tuning and sharpening, even on a new shave. A flat shave will cut into a shallow concave curve with no problem, like on a single-bit axe handle,, but the convex soled shave will get into tighter curves, like you would find on a curved hatchet handle, or a short carvers adze handle. Just IMO and how I do the work, but I find a shave is more useful shaping the handle, and less useful for fitting the head.
 
You'd do best avoiding the cheap versions unless you can hold it in your hands to check the quality. The pictures give a poor indication and it's a good chance it will be thrown away money. I never liked what seems to be the propensity here on the forum the use of a rasp for fitting the handle. Rasps, like sandpaper, grind the wood down while a spokeshave, for example, cuts. It's a good tool for this work, just like a drawknife would be too.

E.DB.
 
I use the spoke shaves made by flexcut. The cut like nothing else that I've used. I used them on seasoned Osage Orange and I still had to watch that I didn't pull it too deep. It's one solid flexible blade that you really control the cut all by feel. It sharpens up easily with a strop that they sell.
 
If you can find vintage ones I like the Stanley 52, I've had good luck with that one. Lots of people speak highly of the old Stanley 151 as well.
 
Yeah I'm only seeing drawknives from Flexcut, too. Isn't the whole point of a spokeshave that you can't accidentally dig too deep?
 
Spoke shave and draw knife are terms used somewhat interchangeably in some cases. They are very different. draw knife is an open blade and a spoke shave is a plane, speaking loosely.
 
I just started using a spoke shave to trim/ slim handles from Tennessee Hickory and I love my Stanley 151. Got it at an antique shop for $10... The best $10 I have ever spent.
 
I love spoke shaves. Besides leaving a lovely finish (if well tuned), they are much more enjoyable to use than a rasp. A well tuned Stanley 151 vintage is a thing of beauty. Look for one on the auction site.
 
Ernest DuBois said:
I never liked what seems to be the propensity here on the forum the use of a rasp for fitting the handle. Rasps, like sandpaper, grind the wood down while a spokeshave, for example, cuts.
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Rasps do the job faster and get into the curve near the shoulder where a spokeshave won't go. If you don't like the rough finish then go over any coarse rasp work with a fine rasp and even with sandpaper or a scraper if you like. You can create as nice of finish as you want and still get done quicker then you would with the spokeshave.

Like some of the other guys I enjoy using a Stanley 151 for shaping/slimming handles. But for the eye a rasp is fine.
 
Another vote for the 151. I have some others as well, my Veritas being my favorite. But, my new Kunz functions perfectly well and costs around $20. I don't find the curved irons to work very well.
 
I'll add that I certainly prefer a rasp in some circumstances, but spoke shaves and rasps together are a dynamite combo. I splurged on a hand cut Nicholson and couldn't be happier. Others will attest to this, but in reality any sharp rasp will work. Used farriers are good at moving lot's of wood out of the way. Hope this helps and doesn't gum up the works here.
 
CB-R said:
I'll add that I certainly prefer a rasp in some circumstances, but spoke shaves and rasps together are a dynamite combo. I splurged on a hand cut Nicholson and couldn't be happier. Others will attest to this, but in reality any sharp rasp will work. Used farriers are good at moving lot's of wood out of the way. Hope this helps and doesn't gum up the works here.
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Yep, I use them both. Among others. So many cool tools so little time.
 
I make a lot of furniture. In spokeshaves, like many other tools, you get what you pay for.

For metal body spokeshaves, I think the Lie-Nielsen Boggs spokeshave is about as good as it gets.

For a less expensive metal bodied shave, look at the Lee Valley low angle shave. I own both and use them quite a bit.

Woodjoy makes some very nice wood bodied spokeshaves.

If you do want to get a Stanley 151, look for vintage.

However, spokeshaves are typically used for finish work.

Use a coarse rasp or a draw knife for large stock removal and then finish with the shave.

As with any tool handle, try to use riven stock. If you don't, get as straight-grained a blank as you can cut.
 
EdgyGator said:
I make a lot of furniture. In spokeshaves, like many other tools, you get what you pay for.

For metal body spokeshaves, I think the Lie-Nielsen Boggs spokeshave is about as good as it gets.

For a less expensive metal bodied shave, look at the Lee Valley low angle shave. I own both and use them quite a bit.

Woodjoy makes some very nice wood bodied spokeshaves.

If you do want to get a Stanley 151, look for vintage.

However, spokeshaves are typically used for finish work.

Use a coarse rasp or a draw knife for large stock removal and then finish with the shave.

As with any tool handle, try to use riven stock. If you don't, get as straight-grained a blank as you can cut.
Click to expand...

I have long drooled over Lei-Nielsen shaves. I just don't know that I could justify the cost no more than I use them. That Lee Valley looks really interesting. Seems that the wood I work just gets me into trouble with the low angle shaves.
I may just have to talk myself into a Lie-Nielsen, it will last me for the rest of my life after all.
Do you have an opinion on Auriou or liogier rasps?
 
I saw a vintage 151 at a yard sale a while ago for $25 and picked it up because I'd read all the raves here. Got home and was cleaning up my man cave and guess what I found in a corner? Yup, another vintage 151. So if anyone wants one I'll sell for cost + shipping.
 
garry3 said:
I have long drooled over Lei-Nielsen shaves. I just don't know that I could justify the cost no more than I use them. That Lee Valley looks really interesting. Seems that the wood I work just gets me into trouble with the low angle shaves.
I may just have to talk myself into a Lie-Nielsen, it will last me for the rest of my life after all.
Do you have an opinion on Auriou or liogier rasps?
Click to expand...

I have about a half dozen Auriou rasps and rifflers. Fantastic tools. I've never even held a Liogier, but from what I've heard, they are on par with the Aurious. You may also consider trying to find some made in the US Nicholsons. A coarse rasp, a cabinet rasp and a cabinet file, and you'd be set for handles. 8 or 10 inch would work. I've seen them on that auction site recently. You could get all 3 for $50 or less. Vintage Nicholsons will be better, because they were hand stitched, not machine. Same price on the vintage, but harder to find in decent shape.

That said, I've got a vintage Nicholson 55 that leaves a better finish than my 9 grain Auriou.
 
So, what you are really doing by grinding the wood to measure is leaving behind a series of ridges and valleys, much more susceptible to compression, the frayed ends of the wood more exposed. A cut surface like you would get with a sharp spokeshave in this instance, or any bladed tool leaves the wood fibers more intact and is more or less a plane providing a more solid and durable surface.

E.DB.
 
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