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Yes that’s
Busse doesn’t use stainless but rather a propietary tool steel they call “infi.” It’s nothing at all like essee’s 1095–infi is one of if not the toughest steels on the market—about 8% chromium and about half the carbon content. Expensive—no doubt, but dam near impossible to break without deliberate use of machinery.
what there website says but when you look at the knives individually many are not labeled that way the most common was stainless
Busse doesn’t use stainless but rather a propietary tool steel they call “infi.” It’s nothing at all like essee’s 1095–infi is one of if not the toughest steels on the market—about 8% chromium and about half the carbon content. Expensive—no doubt, but dam near impossible to break without deliberate use of machinery.
some reason it took me to another page with similar knives your correct my bad
 
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Okay. I am now more convinced that your account is a trolling account that actually paid $$$ to the forum.

A typical infi chopper will break all other knives you put under it and will not even have a dent on it's edge.

But hey! You go ahead and keep on trolling since you prefer to have lack of knowledge instead of actually learning from all of us.
would

Trolling? Your answering folling me? Your projecting. I was honest said I was very familiar and next thing your nerdish mind gets sensitive and you start attacking wow - my advice is to move on and understand what terms mean before calling names like troll. Every time you answer on someone else’s thread - YOUR THE TROLL dumba ass
 

Currawong

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TKGmQj.gif
 

T.L.E. Sharp

Freedom for @Fullflat!!!
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would

Trolling? Your answering folling me? Your projecting. I was honest said I was very familiar and next thing your nerdish mind gets sensitive and you start attacking wow - my advice is to move on and understand what terms mean before calling names like troll. Every time you answer on someone else’s thread - YOUR THE TROLL dumba ass

You're
 
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Well, I think a Buck 119 Special is hard to beat for the price, I like the wood handle done in brass. Not a bushcraft knife though. Someone said a 119 done in the high carbon steel, it's tougher but I don't like rust, you might. The Benchmade Bushcrafter looks like a good choice, don't have one. The Buck 124 Frontiersman seems awesome to me, a little too long perhaps. My best fixed blade, would be my first choice.
 

SpyderPhreak

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I checked them out busse there average “Bowie” knife runs 400 dollar range and the use basic stainless steel for most of there blades. Cheap steel expensive blade. Esse costs less than half of that with similar steel I don’t mind if it whereone of the super steels but no wonder they replace if broken. That’s a crazy price for that to be honest. Lionsteel makes a great Bowie with super steel for half the price. Hinderer uses 3v. But stainless steel for 400 bucks no thanks that’s nuts

Couldn't be more wrong. INFI is not a stainless steel, nor a "cheap" steel. Are they're rarely broken. You'd have a hell of a time finding a tougher blade available (Carothers being one that is likely on par), and ESEE is nothing alike. Given your original choices from the OP, why would you be averse to spending $300-$400 on a Busse in INFI? :confused: o_O It could easily be argued that would be the better choice...

Spend some time here, you might learn a thing or two.

Bowie? Go BIG, or go home... :p

IMG_3326.jpg

would

Trolling? Your answering folling me? Your projecting. I was honest said I was very familiar and next thing your nerdish mind gets sensitive and you start attacking wow - my advice is to move on and understand what terms mean before calling names like troll. Every time you answer on someone else’s thread - YOUR THE TROLL dumba ass

Classy. :rolleyes:
 
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Spandex, trolls, bickering, and bowie knives. What a strange thread. I would get the busse or carothers. I own neither, but plenty of info available on why they're the best choice.
 
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would

Trolling? Your answering folling me? Your projecting. I was honest said I was very familiar and next thing your nerdish mind gets sensitive and you start attacking wow - my advice is to move on and understand what terms mean before calling names like troll. Every time you answer on someone else’s thread - YOUR THE TROLL dumba ass

"Very familiar" with Busse? Ha! No you're not. You actually thought it was stainless steel which shows all of us how little you know. We tried to help you by making very good and legit suggestions and you are going around like English is not your native language (is English even your first language?).

One thing you are quite honest about is the lack of awareness about knives in your thread. Please, do keep it up. It's turning into our personal Jerry Springer show.

Why don't you go to Busse knives section of this forum and tell them how bad their knives are. I want to see you try and put them in their place. :D
 
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would

Trolling? Your answering folling me? Your projecting. I was honest said I was very familiar and next thing your nerdish mind gets sensitive and you start attacking wow - my advice is to move on and understand what terms mean before calling names like troll. Every time you answer on someone else’s thread - YOUR THE TROLL dumba ass

Oh please go here: https://bladeforums.com/forums/busse-combat-knives.713/

And tell them how bad their knives are, that all the metal is actually stainless steel. That it's a waste of money paying for "stainless" steel.

I'm sure you have enough oxygen reaching your brain after wearing one size too small spandex all day long to go on and head over to the Busse forum and teach us all how wrong we are. Please, I'm ready to be educated.
 

SpyderPhreak

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would

Trolling? Your answering folling me? Your projecting. I was honest said I was very familiar and next thing your nerdish mind gets sensitive and you start attacking wow - my advice is to move on and understand what terms mean before calling names like troll. Every time you answer on someone else’s thread - YOUR THE TROLL dumba ass

Is this Eric, or Danielle Cohen? The hands in those knife vids sure look like a man's... o_O :rolleyes:
 

91bravo

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I believe that Carothers D3V is just as tough as INFI. Not to take anything away from INFI, I've used both and while both are tough enough for any abuse that I can put them through, D3V holds a sharp edge longer. There's a video out there with Nathan batoning an INFI blade and a Carothers D3V knife through some thick nails. Damage was comparable between the two.
 

SpyderPhreak

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I believe that Carothers D3V is just as tough as INFI. Not to take anything away from INFI, I've used both and while both are tough enough for any abuse that I can put them through, D3V holds a sharp edge longer. There's a video out there with Nathan batoning an INFI blade and a Carothers D3V knife through some thick nails. Damage was comparable between the two.

Yep! :thumbsup: I can't wait for Nathan to make a Bowie grind. ;)
 

SpyderPhreak

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You folk are all carried away with the blade toughness, I don't understand why. Why does the possibility of some "bushcraft" mean the toughest blade ever?

Simple as this: Buy once, cry once.

Just so happens that some of the best are some of the toughest. You're pretty unlikely to break them, on accident or even on purpose. Not only are the CPKs tough, but they have pretty optimized cutting geometry too. Whereas the Busse stuff might require the buyer to optimize the cutting edge geometry themselves. But you won't find yourself *needing another one anytime soon.

* Wanting another, well that's another story altogether. ;)
 

Currawong

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You folk are all carried away with the blade toughness, I don't understand why. Why does the possibility of some "bushcraft" mean the toughest blade ever?

Some examples -

I have a lot of barbed wire fencing around for cattle. Fencelines run through forest and saplings grow through them all the time. When I cut the trees out I'll often use a large knife (what I have on me when I go walking around). Because the wood grows through and around wire, it means occasionally chopping hard into metal (and sometimes stone if it's rocky ground. I've done this with 52100 (which is pretty tough) and gotten a lot of chipping. INFI = no chipping.

When I go four wheel driving in national parks and state forests (e.g. for hiking or hunting), down little-used and sometimes partially overgrown roads, there are a lot of downed trees across the road. If I don't have a chainsaw with me I have to use either an axe or a chopping knife (depending on the size). This means sometimes hitting the ground (rocks, gravel). Tough chopping knife = no chipping.

A few months ago we were spreading grass seed and clover around a freshly under-scrubbed and raked area of regrowth forest using a tractor. The seed spreader operates off a PTO (a shaft attached to the tractor engine that spins it). When we fired it up it caught the cover on the tray of the ute and sucked it in... it wound around the shaft of the seed spreader so tightly (a tractor motor is strong!) it basically turned to rock. It was some kind of mix of shadecloth / rope and some wire. A lot f it was too hard to cut. So we had to put the point of the knife into it and baton the pommel with a rock, and chip it out bit by bit (which also meant bashing the tip into solid steel repeatedly). No damage.

When batoning through knotty hardwood (for kindling for my home fire place) I also want something tough.

Stuff like this needs to be done sometimes and if the only thing you're carrying is a knife, then toughness becomes the biggest factor.
 
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Some examples -

I have a lot of barbed wire fencing around for cattle. Fencelines run through forest and saplings grow through them all the time. When I cut the trees out I'll often use a large knife (what I have on me when I go walking around). Because the wood grows through and around wire, it means occasionally chopping hard into metal (and sometimes stone if it's rocky ground. I've done this with 52100 (which is pretty tough) and gotten a lot of chipping. INFI = no chipping.

When I go four wheel driving in national parks and state forests (e.g. for hiking or hunting), down little-used and sometimes partially overgrown roads, there are a lot of downed trees across the road. If I don't have a chainsaw with me I have to use either an axe or a chopping knife (depending on the size). This means sometimes hitting the ground (rocks, gravel). Tough chopping knife = no chipping.

A few months ago we were spreading grass seed and clover around a freshly under-scrubbed and raked area of regrowth forest using a tractor. The seed spreader operates off a PTO (a shaft attached to the tractor engine that spins it). When we fired it up it caught the cover on the tray of the ute and sucked it in... it wound around the shaft of the seed spreader so tightly (a tractor motor is strong!) it basically turned to rock. It was some kind of mix of shadecloth / rope and some wire. A lot f it was too hard to cut. So we had to put the point of the knife into it and baton the pommel with a rock, and chip it out bit by bit (which also meant bashing the tip into solid steel repeatedly). No damage.

When batoning through knotty hardwood (for kindling for my home fire place) I also want something tough.

Stuff like this needs to be done sometimes and if the only thing you're carrying is a knife, then toughness becomes the biggest factor.

This is the exact same reasoning I have for carrying Busse knives with me for trial clearing in Minnesota. Like I said earlier, I'll bet my life on a Busse knife any day of the week.
 
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Ontario’s ranger rd6 blade is 6” long, made from 5160–making it a lot easier to field sharpen than 3v—yet “tough” enough not to break under normal circumstances and (much!)cheaper. It is 1/4” thick at the spine though, which is much thicker than the alternative knives—but has a ffg and a taper—as well as a coating, since it isn’t at all stainless. The price is so low that spending $20-30 on a leather or kydex sheath (from the bay) leaves it about half the cost of a comparable Essee.
 
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Ontario’s ranger rd6 blade is 6” long, made from 5160–making it a lot easier to field sharpen than 3v—yet “tough” enough not to break under normal circumstances and (much!)cheaper. It is 1/4” thick at the spine though, which is much thicker than the alternative knives—but has a ffg and a taper—as well as a coating, since it isn’t at all stainless. The price is so low that spending $20-30 on a leather or kydex sheath (from the bay) leaves it about half the cost of a comparable Essee.
Sorry, your prices are way off. Please do the math before you spread missinformation.
 
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