Recommended sheath style for a bowie?

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Nov 5, 2016
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I’m getting closer to complete on this knife, and I’m starting to think about what to make for a sheath for it (please pardon the wet oil on the handle at this moment).
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I’m making this to give to a friend’s wife so she can give it to him for his birthday. This is my first bowie, and the biggest knife I’ve made to date. The real trick is, I’ve never even actually owned a bowie knife (or a knife this large) so I don’t really have a frame of reference for what a good sheath would be for it. I’m wondering what style of sheath others prefer for a bowie knife.
 
I like something like this:

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Traditionally the sheath was worn under the belt or sash and the brass stud was used to catch the top of the belt or the sash:

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It can be done without the bow tie restraining strap too.

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If ya want to hang this kind of sheath on a belt, traditionally a frog was used, particularly on a cartridge belt. The frog is the piece above the handle. The other strappy thing is something I invited to hang the whole thing from a saddle.

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So the sheath slips into open loop on the front with the Sam Browne stud snapping into the little hole locking the two pieces, the frog and the sheath, together. This then gives ya a belt loop on the back of the frog.

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For an excellent version of this type of sheath with a hanger instead of a frog look here:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/my-1-year-anniversary-sheath.1558705/
 
That looks much more proper for this style knife than the couple “taco”
style I’ve done so far. I’m rather smitten with that first one of yours. Is that suede on the top pieces? I’m assuming the stud is attached to the top piece and sandwiched between that and the main sheath to keep the metal backing off the blade? How would these traditionally be worn (same side as dominate hand, cross draw, small of back) for purpose of planning the side for the stud? Welt all the way around? Sorry for all the questions, when I saw your pics my mind just clicked “dang that’s exactly it!”
 
Good deal. Not suede roughout. the same leather as the sheath body just turned around. Yes on the stud. It scres together although there are some that are riveted. I like the screw ones and don't forget a drop of locktite. I've seen old pics of them being worn all over, even dead center in the front. To me crossdraw feels about right. Welt only on the edge side of the blade, gives a decent friction fit. hope that helps.
 
That looks much more proper for this style knife than the couple “taco”
style I’ve done so far. I’m rather smitten with that first one of yours. Is that suede on the top pieces? I’m assuming the stud is attached to the top piece and sandwiched between that and the main sheath to keep the metal backing off the blade? How would these traditionally be worn (same side as dominate hand, cross draw, small of back) for purpose of planning the side for the stud? Welt all the way around? Sorry for all the questions, when I saw your pics my mind just clicked “dang that’s exactly it!”
This is the way I like to wear it. Very comfy. I use the bow tie for transport only. I doubt that I need the bow tie as Dave’s sheath fits perfectly, but I like the added insurance and I think it looks sharp. Pun intended :) Dave also made the belt.
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Looks like you only cut one side of the two piece welt. You'll need a welt on the spine side as well, if for no other reason than to balance the thickness to be uniform.

I'm also wondering about the difference in the color of the leather from one photo to the next. Did you oil the darker colored pieces prior to assembly?
If so then I suspect you are working with import leather and you can oil until you get tired of oiling that's about as dark as it's going to get.

Paul
 
Those are just cool pics GB940Rookie GB940Rookie Ya might have to email em to me when ya get a chance! Just for info the body of that sheath and the belt are 8/10oz Wickett and Craig russet saddle leather and the shields/chevrons are 7/8 oz Herman Oak which is why there is a difference in color. I only use one welt however if Paul says to use two I will from now. I have used two in the past and the fitting is easier. Using one I get a very tight friction fit along the spine, however I have also thrown away a lot of leather learning how to do it and get the fit just right.
 
I’ve only cut a welt for the blade side because that’s how horsewright said he did it.

You are spot on that in the second pic it has been oiled with neatsfoot, and that is the color difference. You are also correct in deducing it is import leather. It’s the craftsman oak from Tandy. It’s still wet in that photo. It has now returned to essentially the same color it started as once drying, so I think you are right I’m not going to get the color from oil. I may need to resort to dye. Eventually I’ll get some nice leather once I have things a bit better figured out, and I’ve gone through what I have. There was a bit of a mixup at Christmas time and I was given multiple shoulders of this stuff.
 
I had a piece of belly that I’ve been using just to practice cutting, tooling, etc. that was darker. I almost wonder if this is actually pre dyed it’s so much darker (it was one of those random clearance pieces). I had to be strategic about where I cut from, but I was able to have just enough to cut out another sheath. I now have a couple options, dark, light or some mix and match of the dark and light. Thoughts (I also have some saddle tan dye I could try on the lighter one)?

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I learned the hard way why the craft tools on Amazon cost so much less... My camouflage tool bent on me part way through doing the darker sheath. I tried to straighten it, but like a bent nail, once bent seems impossible to get straight. The camouflage stamping wanders a bit as it was really hard to keep the tool properly lined up once it went all caddywampus.
 
Put that bent tool in the trash and count the cost as tuition in the "School of Life". I like your mix match set up as the best looking option. Your belly scrap wasn't tannery dyed, but it very well could have come from some good domestic leather (HO, Wickett and Craig etc.)

Paul
 
Put that bent tool in the trash and count the cost as tuition in the "School of Life.”
Yup, nice research paper on “Shoulda known betta.” Caved to the temptation of the big bargain set because I wasn’t really sure what each did to know what to buy individually. I think I’ll be trying to do a better job figuring out what each tool is used for so I can buy the real deals and toss this entire lot.
 
Ya know what, we've got a big rack and two drawers full of different stamps. I've never counted but I bet ya a couple hundred. I've got 4 bevellers, 2 camo border stamps, 2 seeders, 3 basket stamps, 2 Carlos border stamps and 1 arrowhead thingy stamp so what is that 14 stamps that does 99.9999999% of my tooling. Keep banging away ya'll figure out which ones work for you.
 
It doesn’t hold a candle to the original, but here are the results of the inspiration I took from the work of Horsewright Horsewright

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Hindsight being 20/20, I think I may have ordered larger than necessary studs, and I should have left myself more space between the edge and the stud for stitching. I fit the stitches in but just barely. I did do welt all the way around as suggested by Paul. I’m glad I did. It is a pretty tight fit even with the welt. I doubt it would have fit without because I probably didn’t leave sufficient space around the blade with my pattern. I almost made the big mistake of stitching the entire thing together before stitching the across stitches for the chevrons. Luckily I caught myself at the last moment. This thing was a beast to saddle stitch. I didn’t account for the extra thickness due to the chevrons, so my length times 6 approach came up three holes short on thread, doh! Luckily the fluff of the rough out chevron hides a bit the double stitch up of the short bit of second stitching to finish it off. Things to keep in mind when I tackle sheath number 5.
 
Looking good, real good. I too like the stud size. The larger ones work great, even better than the smaller ones for belt or sash carry. Not so good for the bowtie or into a frog though, there the smaller works better. Your thread splice is difficult to notice, ya did it well.
 
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