- Joined
- Jun 10, 2011
- Messages
- 294
[size=+1]Out of all[/size] the "chopping" khukuris that I have, I find the WWII my least favorite. As a result it's the one that I choose to bring with me whenever I go anywhere where chopping will be necessary. It gives me the freedom to really beat on it without having second thoughts (my beater). I know that it's kind of a twisted way of thinking, but also it helps me get better acquainted to the beater after which I usually like it more and a different knife will end up on the traveling rotation. Anyway, the WWII took some hard use chopping/batoning through kiln-dried oak and other hardwoods.
Also see the thread, some outdoor fun.
[size=+1]As a result[/size] the WWII came home with some minor damage to the blade.
[size=+1]Two different[/size] close-ups of the same blade.
[size=+1]I use a metal file[/size] to start the process...I guess this would be called reprofiling the blade to a flat grind, however it is only temporary...just to get the chips out. I hold the blade in one hand and the file in the other and run the file along the blade. I'm better on one side than the other due to being right-handed. Here's some close ups of each side after the first several passes.
This is the side I am "less good" at, but usually by the time I finish filing I've got the pattern down much better on this side.
My better side:
A little more filing, but can still see traces of the chips.
I'm getting better on my off side:
Pretty even finish on this side if I say so myself...no trace of the chips left.
[size=+1]Now the chips[/size] have been ground out and it's ready for the sandpaper and mouse treatment. Here's my setup. A little 2x4 construction to raise the mousepand and sandpaper so I can push the blade along it without bumping my hand on the workbench.
[size=+1]I was not[/size] inclined to stop and snap pics after each grit, but I started with 150 grit to start to undo the flat grind and return it to a convex. After the 180 the knife was probably "sharp enough" to call it quits, but the compulsive in me wants a razor sharp khuk. Grits 220, 320, 400, and finally 600 take some faith to keep working through. It almost seems that the knife gets less sharp during this part of the process - it was pretty shiny and wicked looking after the 180 grip. This series of steps really polishes the blade edge kind-of making it look "softer." But once the 600 grit step is done it has started to become sharp enough to shave. Some stropping with green compound and it's ready enough for me. Could it be sharper? - you bet! But by now my compulsiveness has been overcome by my attention span.
[size=+1]Shaves the hair[/size] on the back of my hand (amazing how quick these grow back, but I guess I never thought about it really...the face needs a shave daily).
[size=+1]During the process[/size] above, I stopped and put some WD40 on steel wool sitting on the workbench and ran the flat part of the blade across it on each side several times to clean off some of the wood residue and buff out some of the scratches. Also, on the 400 grit, 600 grit and the stop I took some strokes with the full flat side of the blade to further buff it out a bit. Once done I spray some WD40 on kleenex and lay the kleenex on the steel wool and wipe the knife back and forth on the kleenex to get the compound off. If you're looking for a great way to badly slice your finger(s) you can pick up the kleenex with the oil and wipe it back and forth on the blade (ouch!).
[size=+1]Reconditioning complete[/size] and ready for the next beating...
[size=+1]You can see[/size] that the convex edge has returned nicely leaving almost no trace of the flat grind. I say almost because maybe to a trained eye there is a bot of flat grind with a secondary convex, but it looks pretty much full convex to me.
Also see the thread, some outdoor fun.
[size=+1]As a result[/size] the WWII came home with some minor damage to the blade.
[size=+1]Two different[/size] close-ups of the same blade.
[size=+1]I use a metal file[/size] to start the process...I guess this would be called reprofiling the blade to a flat grind, however it is only temporary...just to get the chips out. I hold the blade in one hand and the file in the other and run the file along the blade. I'm better on one side than the other due to being right-handed. Here's some close ups of each side after the first several passes.
This is the side I am "less good" at, but usually by the time I finish filing I've got the pattern down much better on this side.
My better side:
A little more filing, but can still see traces of the chips.
I'm getting better on my off side:
Pretty even finish on this side if I say so myself...no trace of the chips left.
[size=+1]Now the chips[/size] have been ground out and it's ready for the sandpaper and mouse treatment. Here's my setup. A little 2x4 construction to raise the mousepand and sandpaper so I can push the blade along it without bumping my hand on the workbench.
[size=+1]I was not[/size] inclined to stop and snap pics after each grit, but I started with 150 grit to start to undo the flat grind and return it to a convex. After the 180 the knife was probably "sharp enough" to call it quits, but the compulsive in me wants a razor sharp khuk. Grits 220, 320, 400, and finally 600 take some faith to keep working through. It almost seems that the knife gets less sharp during this part of the process - it was pretty shiny and wicked looking after the 180 grip. This series of steps really polishes the blade edge kind-of making it look "softer." But once the 600 grit step is done it has started to become sharp enough to shave. Some stropping with green compound and it's ready enough for me. Could it be sharper? - you bet! But by now my compulsiveness has been overcome by my attention span.
[size=+1]Shaves the hair[/size] on the back of my hand (amazing how quick these grow back, but I guess I never thought about it really...the face needs a shave daily).
[size=+1]During the process[/size] above, I stopped and put some WD40 on steel wool sitting on the workbench and ran the flat part of the blade across it on each side several times to clean off some of the wood residue and buff out some of the scratches. Also, on the 400 grit, 600 grit and the stop I took some strokes with the full flat side of the blade to further buff it out a bit. Once done I spray some WD40 on kleenex and lay the kleenex on the steel wool and wipe the knife back and forth on the kleenex to get the compound off. If you're looking for a great way to badly slice your finger(s) you can pick up the kleenex with the oil and wipe it back and forth on the blade (ouch!).
[size=+1]Reconditioning complete[/size] and ready for the next beating...
[size=+1]You can see[/size] that the convex edge has returned nicely leaving almost no trace of the flat grind. I say almost because maybe to a trained eye there is a bot of flat grind with a secondary convex, but it looks pretty much full convex to me.