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Remove light scratches on polished blade
- Thread starter flphotog
- Start date
- Joined
- May 16, 2008
- Messages
- 87
Did you try a cape cod cloth or a buffing wheel with rouge?
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
- Joined
- May 16, 2008
- Messages
- 87
Sorry that last response probably wasn't so helpful. Depending on the depth of the scratch you actually may need to use 600 grit wet dry sandpaper and work your way up to 2000 followed by a buffing wheel to fix it. I've resolved light scratches with just a buffing wheel and a Cape Cod cloth but the idea of a light scratch is subjective. Not all light scratches can be removed without actually doing some careful sanding and polishing.I hope that helps.
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I did try a buffing wheel and rouge. That did help. I may just need to work it a little more. Will give it a try tomorrow.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,302
Brasso probably isn't aggressive enough for steel. It utilizes silica-based abrasives which aren't very effective, except on softer metals as implied by the name. Flitz and Simichrome polishes both use aluminum oxide, which is much more effective on steel and other hard metals. Mother's Mag Aluminum Wheel Polish likely does also (works pretty well on hardened steel), and it might be an option as well.
David
I'm going to pick up some Flitz tomorrow, I think that and the buffing wheel will resolve it.
It's pretty polished but it's a cheap knife so I'm not to worried about it. Just doing this really to get some experience in case I ever need to handle something like this on a good knife.
Thanks all for the suggestions.
It's pretty polished but it's a cheap knife so I'm not to worried about it. Just doing this really to get some experience in case I ever need to handle something like this on a good knife.
Thanks all for the suggestions.
I sometimes feel like I'm repeating myself. But some of this advice probably should be repeated so that more people can hear/read it.
Removing scratches requires using an abrasive with a coarse enough grit to match the scratch. Then you work from the "scratched grit" up to the desired level of polish. I've found that most blades really don't have much of a polish on the body at all. Most seem to stop somewhere between 220 and 320.
The idea of using a powered system with a very high grit abrasive can work. But it's going to leave a polish determined entirely by the abrasive you use. I guess that's obvious, but if your blade isn't super duper polished, using a polishing compound is going to increase polish in the areas you use it in. In other words, you might be creating a shiny spot on your blade, trying to remove a scratch.
Brian.
Removing scratches requires using an abrasive with a coarse enough grit to match the scratch. Then you work from the "scratched grit" up to the desired level of polish. I've found that most blades really don't have much of a polish on the body at all. Most seem to stop somewhere between 220 and 320.
The idea of using a powered system with a very high grit abrasive can work. But it's going to leave a polish determined entirely by the abrasive you use. I guess that's obvious, but if your blade isn't super duper polished, using a polishing compound is going to increase polish in the areas you use it in. In other words, you might be creating a shiny spot on your blade, trying to remove a scratch.
Brian.
Thanks, you did hit the nail on the head with this. Spent a couple minutes with 320 grit sandpaper and the scratch is gone, many thanks