Removing Surface Grinding Marks

J

jimbowie7

Joined
Mar 13, 2005
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What is the best way to remove surface grinding marks?

I have a few pieces of ATS-34 and D2 that's been precision surface ground. I've noticed that the surface isn't fine enough, how do I get it to a 600 grit finish while keeping it a "true" flat?

I tried a disc sander with a 220, 320, 400, 600 grit wet and dry paper, the finish is there -but using a pair of calipers, it varies by quite a bit in different areas.

Anyone hand rub the flats on a precision granite slab using a magnet to hold the steel? How do you do it? Grit progression? Do I need to start at 80 or 120 grit? Seems like it will take forever? Any faster methods to get a good finish, but keeping the steel truly flat?

The steel measures 1" x 4" x 1/8".

I'm making a folder and need the blade tang to be as flat as possible.

Thanks! :thumbup:
 
Good question, i have the same problem.

I would think that if you could find a surface grinder that uses belts, you could get the finish down to an acceptable grit. I am just using my flat plattern and magnet at this stage. With the slight variance in height.:mad:
 
Some guys make their own surface grinder with sanding belts. That way you can surface grind to 600 grit or whatever your highest belt is. Try lapping it on a surface plate.
 
I use the flat platten on my belt grinder with a fresh 400 grit belt, then hand sand. Takes practice but works well on my folders.
 
I bought a small surface plate from Harbor Freight. You can tape sheets of sandpaper to it then work your blade blanks over it until you get the desired finish. I must admit it is a much slower process than the others.
 
I surface grind my blades also, then I use hard stones (india stones, die maker stones, mold maker stones) and hold them flat, it will only tousch on the high spots. use 400 untill its flat then move on untill you reach whatever grit you find desireable
 
On full tang knives I grind part of my blade bevels first, then I drill out the tang. Once the tang is drilled out I hollow grind out part of the tang. This removes alot of metal. From there I will use a flat granite block with sand paper on it and work my way up the grits. By removing so much metal before hand flat sanding on the block doesn't take as long. I start at 80 or 100 grit just depends on how bad the scratches are on the bar stock. Hope that helps. Ryan Minchew

On a folder you could go ahead and grind part of the bevels to remove some of the steel. I'm tend to use alot more grits than most people. ON a folder I would go 100, 150, maybe 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000. From their I would buff by hand with flitz then by hand with no scratch pink for a mirror finish. For satin I would stop at 600. I don't like using a magnet for some reason maybe because the one I have is to big. I usually use masking tape on it and put on latex gloves this lets me be able to hold the blade rather well.
 
You can sand it in a figure 8 motion on a granite plate that the sandpaper sits on. This will maintain the flatness while alowwing you to smooth it. If you dont use the figure 8 motion you will end up sanding down one side more than the others.
 
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