Removing thumbstuds help

M

mosquitojoyride

Joined
Jun 20, 2005
Messages
50
i'm trying to sharpen with sharpmaker, but thumbstuds get in the way. i would like to remove them, but i'm having trouble. do you need a torx on each side? any help would be great, this problem is really bothering me.
 
Those must be some BIG thumbstuds! I have NEVER had a problem with thumbstuds getting in the way while using a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Are you SURE that you are using the Sharpmaker correctly and holding your knife totally correct and not tilted to the side?
 
i'm using hte bm 710. i'm sure i'm not the only one bothered by the studs while sharping, i read joe thalmadge's post on how to sharpen the knife and he warned of the thumbstuds getting in the way himself.
 
I know what your talking about.

I believe it is cause of the small recurve in the blade, i had some issues aswell when i dropped the profiled edge on mine aswell friend.

I myself did not remove them, just paid a little more attention when i was at the end with them.

Maybe a BM Nut will come along an tell you your best bet, i seen somewhere a while back, someone suggested to use pliers with rubber over the stud to protect them, use 2 pair and protect the studs is what the gyst was.

Personally, i do not know if they are easily removed or other.


Good luck

WR
 
I sharpen my BM 710 all the time with the sharpmaker and the thumb studs have never gotten in the way. The only way I can see this happening is if you are not holding the knife at the correct angle.
 
You are definitely doing something wrong if the thumbstuds are getting in the way. The knife should be straight up and down while riding the stones. It should not be angled in.
 
For me, it was when i reprofiled on a lansky system.

My angle was determined by the set up, and existed on both sides.



WR
 
Welcome to Bladeforums! This thread is two years old....

moving-van.jpg
 
I knew it was a BenchMade folder before reading the fist post. You may need to take a wood burner and plug it in til it gets hot. Hold the tip in the hole on one side of the stud for about thirty seconds, set the wood burner down and then try to turn the torx driver before it cools and see if that doesn't break it free.

If not try again with 45 seconds on the other side.

I often times remove the studs before sharpening by the way. With the Sharpmaker its not been much of a problem but the Edge Pro is another story. Another reason I like opening holes besides having nothing to lose or retighten.


STR
 
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