Removing wax coating from wood block

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KodyL

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Jul 14, 2016
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I have a small block of curly maple that seems to have a coating of wax on it. What's the best way to get it off without gumming up the works All kinds of options, but what works best for you ?
 
Scrape it off with a razor, or use a solvent of some kind.
 
I set the rep fence on my band saw so it will just shave off the wax without cutting much of the wood.
 
Card scraper or hand plane.
A good solvent is paint thinner (not paint stripper).
You can really go to town with the solvent; get it sloppy wet and it won't hurt the wood and will dry out just fine. May want to do this out side or in good ventilation.

 
You have good advice, but I suggest you let us know what finish you plan to put on it. If you plan on a solvent based finish, I suggest acetone or lacquer thinner. I would try to scrape as much off as possible first to reduce some of the wax actually soaking into the wood. Ditto for using an epoxy finish, filler only be especially sure not to leave any wax.
If you are going to use a wax finish, just leave it on and shape the wood without worry.
Hope that was helpful.
 
Acetone and lacquer thinner are going first class but do be aware you are introducing a whole new level of hazard into your work . . .poisonous and HIGHLY flammable. Be well away from any ignition source (unless you are one that enjoys huge fire balls), even an air circulation fan could light you up big time.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I was planning to cut it up to get 4 handles for hidden tang knives and about 8 scales and stabilize with Minwax wood hardener. And then stain if needed and oil finsh. I know there are better wood hardeners, but MinWax is the only thing available locally and in my price range.
 
I just give it a scrape down with a card scraper and then slap it on the 6X48 belt sander with a 36 grit belt.
 
KodyL said:
I was planning to cut it up to get 4 handles for hidden tang knives and about 8 scales and stabilize with Minwax wood hardener.
Click to expand...
Minwax is not a stabiliant. I poured a bottle in a pan and watched it for several months. The total solids was less than 25% of the original volume. More important, the remainder never solidified or got hard. It was a slow moving blob that slowly moved from one end of the pan to the other when the pan was at an angle.

Chuck
 
That doesn't sound good. I just did 4 scales in a pickle jar with a hand vac.pump. I'll take them out in the morning and bake them at about 170* F for about a hour in my little toaster oven. Fingers crossed...?
 
I had a guy compare Minwax wood hardener to regular stabilizing resin by saying it was like using fingernail polish to do fiberglass work. Yes, it will penetrate the glass cloth, but No it won't be nearly the same as using the proper resin.
 
The wood looks quite solid and my production doesn't warrant me ordering Cactus Juice. So hears hoping.
 
KodyL said:
Thanks for all the replies. I was planning to cut it up to get 4 handles for hidden tang knives and about 8 scales and stabilize with Minwax wood hardener. And then stain if needed and oil finsh. I know there are better wood hardeners, but MinWax is the only thing available locally and in my price range.
Click to expand...

Chuck and stacy are dead right. Miniwax has the same chemical that is found in high end stabiliant, but it is a VERY low grade of it with all sorts of nasty stuff in it. You also wont get any good penetration without a strong vacuum and pressure cycle and you will get very poor polymerization without a curing heat cycle.

Miniwax is simply not work it. If its worth doing, its worth doing right.
 
Just send it to Ken at K&G and get it back in a week or so fully stabilized. You won't regret spending a few bucks now, and you certainly won't regret later.
 
For future reference;
Wood done with minwax wood hardener only has a slight benefit.
The wood gets a good bit darker and will form a whiteish haze if there is any moisture inside.
The product was made for hardening rotted wood prior to painting the surfaces.
It is not expensive to send the wood to K&G to be properly stabilized.
 
I just got 40 blocks about 2x1.5x5.5 stabilized at K&G. Stabilizing and shipping cost me $170. So basically a bit over $4/block to stabilize. I had the wood back 2 weeks after I shipped it.

Most of the time I collect, dry, and cut my own blocks, but I also watch ebay. I picked up an auction of Koa pieces that got me 10 VERY NICE blocks for $58 shipped. So those Koa blocks cost me $10 each. That's a steal.

I see auctions of buckeye burl go by that would be super cheap to pick up and get K&G to stabilize. I figure I will pick one of those up soon.
 
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