i have a old walden knife bone handles, but it is cracked in 2 places. i noticed in a earlier thread don luis said that he fixed his with a clear epoxy. what do u guys use? right now the handles are still tight, and show no signs of coming off, but i would like to take a few precautionary mesaures. any help would be appreciated!
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
repairing bone handles
- Thread starter fireman
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2002
- Messages
- 2,462
If I was just displaying the piece, probably nothing.
But if I want to use it, one method is some type of superglue, applied to the end of a toothpick, or a pin (if the crack is really small), and gently transferred between the crack. If you get a bit too much, a little nail polish remover on a Q-tip will take it off.
Bill
But if I want to use it, one method is some type of superglue, applied to the end of a toothpick, or a pin (if the crack is really small), and gently transferred between the crack. If you get a bit too much, a little nail polish remover on a Q-tip will take it off.
Bill
thats what i was thinking too. i didnt know that nail polish would take off excess though, so thanks for that! this is a cool knife, really old, and i would like to carry it. i had a case with cracked handles and it fell apart in no time! i had superglued it back on, but it seemed like the little piece would fall off all the time. luckily these arent in danger of going yet, so i will use superglue like a seal on it. thanks bill.
Knives with bone scales don't always make the best users. Bone, Horn and Ivory expands and contracts with changes in temperature and especially humidity. As a result, the area around the pins is highly susceptible to cracking, even after being previously glued.
A Super Glue with a thicker consistency has worked well for me. I let it ooze into the crack, apply a small spring clamp to squeeze the split area together, and then apply an accelerator to speed up the curing of the glue.
fireman, Bill said to use nail polish remover (acetone) to remove any excess glue.
A Super Glue with a thicker consistency has worked well for me. I let it ooze into the crack, apply a small spring clamp to squeeze the split area together, and then apply an accelerator to speed up the curing of the glue.
fireman, Bill said to use nail polish remover (acetone) to remove any excess glue.
thanks guys! i took a old cheap chinese knife with cracked bone handles and tried several different things last night. i found a glue used in taxidermy that makes sort of a resin paste, thinned it out, filled int he cracks then used stain to match it to the handle. worked like a charm on the cheapy, but i am gonna experiment more before i try it on my walden. thanks for the advise guys!
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2005
- Messages
- 322
Whatever glue you use, it's important to first make sure the surfaces are spotlessly clean of any dirt or oils, so that the glue can bond without interference. For that, I usually use isopropyl alcohol 99%, either on a cotton swab, or a simple rinse, then let dry. It evaporates completely, and doesn't damage most materials. Do NOT use rubbing alcohol, because it contains oil, which stays behind on the surface, after the alcohol evaporates.
If you use a stronger pre-gluing cleaner, like lacquer thinner or acetone, be careful, since these will dissolve some materials, especially manmade ones, like plastics. Should be okay with bone, but test first.
If you use a stronger pre-gluing cleaner, like lacquer thinner or acetone, be careful, since these will dissolve some materials, especially manmade ones, like plastics. Should be okay with bone, but test first.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2004
- Messages
- 3,536
Ummm... isopropyl alcohol is rubbing alcohol, pocketknife. Do you mean to say not to use the 70%?
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2005
- Messages
- 322
No, rubbing alcohol is not isopropyl alcohol. Rubbing alcohol CONTAINS isopropyl alcohol... at the concentration of 70%. The other 30% of rubbing alcohol is oil....that's what gives it the lubrication to make it suitable for massaging, or "rubbable" (is that a word?!)
Next time you're at a drug store, look at the labels and note the percentage of alcohol in each one.
(BTW, isopropyl alcohol is also called "isopropanol".)
Bottom line: don't use rubbing alcohol for cleaning, because it leaves an oily residue....which is exactly what you are trying to clean off in the first place. (petroleum oils from the knife, and body oils from your skin)
Edit to add: At some drugstores, you have to ask for the 99% isopropanol, as it may be behind the counter. It's a staple in my house, for many things: first aid, cleaning, removing price sticker gum, etc.
Next time you're at a drug store, look at the labels and note the percentage of alcohol in each one.
(BTW, isopropyl alcohol is also called "isopropanol".)
Bottom line: don't use rubbing alcohol for cleaning, because it leaves an oily residue....which is exactly what you are trying to clean off in the first place. (petroleum oils from the knife, and body oils from your skin)
Edit to add: At some drugstores, you have to ask for the 99% isopropanol, as it may be behind the counter. It's a staple in my house, for many things: first aid, cleaning, removing price sticker gum, etc.