replacing inlays in Sebenza scales?

TRfromMT

TRfromMT

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Has anyone ever replaced the inlays in the sebenza (or inkosi) scales? I understand they are installed using double-stick tape, not epoxy or CA glue. Is this correct? Any tips on removing the inlays without breaking them?

Thanks in advance.

TR

(PS - I understand all the cautions about voiding warranty, "why on earth would you want to?!" wear eye protection and don't inhale the dust. :D Thanks.)
 
I've never tried this on a CRK, but the 3M VHB adhesive tape used is amazingly tough stuff. One way to temporarily lessen the bond strength is heat, but it needs to be hot like more than 200 degrees F. Going hotter will lessen the bond even more so you need to look at the inlay material to determine how much heat it can take before damage occurs.

All of the inlay models have removal holes somewhere in the inlay pocket. So you'd need a way to hold the Ti slab like a vice, heat it (calibrated heat gun) and then push the inlay using something like a nail set (a flat-tip punch). If you've planned properly and have some crafting skills, the inlay should lift off with carefully applied pressure.

You're then left with a mess of VHB residue and if you look at the 3M VHB web site, you'll see the most popular method they sell removal tools for includes a grinder-like wheel to abrade the residue... not something suitable for a CRK titanium slab. Chemicals may soften the residue (like Goo-Gone) which means you'd need to carefully scrape it using a flat tool and stay in the pocket to avoid damage to the titanium surface.

Good luck - you're going to need it!

47042704474_214497040a_b.jpg
 
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I think an inlay would be cool without he material installed, like above :D
 
Wavicle said:
I've never tried this on a CRK, but the 3M VHB adhesive tape used is amazingly tough stuff. One way to temporarily lessen the bond strength is heat, but it needs to be hot like more than 200 degrees F. Going hotter will lessen the bond even more so you need to look at the inlay material to determine how much heat it can take before damage occurs.

All of the inlay models have removal holes somewhere in the inlay pocket. So you'd need a way to hold the Ti slab like a vice, heat it (calibrated heat gun) and then push the inlay using something like a nail set (a flat-tip punch). If you've planned properly and have some crafting skills, the inlay should lift off with carefully applied pressure.

You're then left with a mess of VHB residue and if you look at the 3M VHB web site, you'll see the most popular method they sell removal tools for includes a grinder-like wheel to abrade the residue... not something suitable for a CRK titanium slab. Chemicals may soften the residue (like Goo-Gone) which means you'd need to carefully scrape it using a flat tool and stay in the pocket to avoid damage to the titanium surface.

Good luck - you're going to need it!

47042704474_214497040a_b.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks. Just what I needed to know.
 
Richard in LA said:
3m has a special remover and instructions for their adhesives. IIRC, cold works better than heat, but I would expect to ruin all but micarta or CF inlays.
Click to expand...

The project is to remove Carbon Fiber and replace with Cocobolo. The owner wants me to do this with some left over material that will match some fixed blade scales I did for him a couple years ago. Just hoping to salvage the C.F. inserts so I can use them for templates to make the new ones.
 
Peter Hartwig said:
You may want to do a search-I believe I read Mr.H saying he had removed them.
Personally-I would just sell the CF and buy a wood inlay, saving all the hassle & most the cost.
Click to expand...

In this case I am in possession of the block of wood from which he wants the inlays, so as to match another prize knife. In this case, the juice is worth the squeeze.
 
I sent a Thuya inlay 21 to Bosie for a warranty issue.
Per Alysia (? spelling), to correct the problem they had to remove the inlays. At least one of them broke in the process. (They replaced all three. I was ok with that.)

If CRK has difficulty removing the inlays intact, it’s probably tough to accomplish.
 
Turns out it's not that big of a deal. Just takes a lot of patience and careful sanding.

Photos in reverse order. Finished inserts (waiting on some 3M VHB tape to mount) going back to the roughed out pieces.
 
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Great work.
I've thought about this for several years and now I'm seriously considering replacing the inlays on a large Inkosi. If you would be so kind, could you provide a few more details about the inlay removal process. I'm confident in my ability, but specifics sure might help.
Thanks,
Scott
 
sre1 said:
Great work.
I've thought about this for several years and now I'm seriously considering replacing the inlays on a large Inkosi. If you would be so kind, could you provide a few more details about the inlay removal process. I'm confident in my ability, but specifics sure might help.
Thanks,
Scott
Click to expand...

Honestly, I made the owner of the knife do it. I believe he used some solvent, such as acetone. Soaked them for a while then pressed on the pin-hole from the back until he could pry them loose. I did not want to destroy his knife, so I only agreed to do the handles if he would do the dirty deed on the original inlays. He sent me the knife in pieces.
 
Great write up! I am about to embark on a Mnandi. Do you know the thickness of the inlay?
 
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