I mainly use a sharpmaker for upkeep on my knives and a lansky regular set to reprofile as needed. My question is by using the black sharpie method I find on one side the 20 degree is cleanly removing the marker but on the other side it is only hitting on the very edge. Do I need to change the over all sharpening angle " 40 inclusive" or reprofile the one edge to 20 degree by reprofiling. I like 40 inclusive for most of my knives, only using the 30 degree on something thin like a sak. Any help appreciated.
Reprofile or wrong angle?
- Thread starter PCL
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- Jul 6, 2009
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I'm no hero, but will give you my thoughts. I must assume that this has just been discovered on your rather new knife. I would re-profile the one edge to 20 deg, checking often "along the way" that the two bevels are becoming more similar in "width" i.e. meaning closer in size from the apex up toward the spine.
Once you've evened out both bevels, you will have changed your inclusive angle to 40 deg. I would likely begin with 120 to 220 grit to establish "equality" in bevel widths...re-checking your work often along the way.
Good luck to you. It shouldn't be too tough.
Stick around to hear what others say. Good luck.
Once you've evened out both bevels, you will have changed your inclusive angle to 40 deg. I would likely begin with 120 to 220 grit to establish "equality" in bevel widths...re-checking your work often along the way.
Good luck to you. It shouldn't be too tough.
Stick around to hear what others say. Good luck.
I just reprofiled the curved tip of my Ruike p801 because the 40 degree included angle on my Sharpmaker came nowhere near the apex, asymmetrically on the left. As I have screwed up with freehand, I used Congress Tools 150 grit ruby triangles. They are a little rough for the job and I have ordered 220 and 320 grit triangles for the future. I have no expertise, but was surprised to see this problem with the grind.
You don't have to reprofile, if you don't want. You have a 20-degree angle on one side and a more acute angle on the other side.
If you sharpen with the Sharpmaker in the 40-degree setting, you'll get a full bevel on the 20-degree side and a microbevel on the more acute side of the bevel. As you sharpen in the future, you can concentrate on the more acute side using the 40-degree setting, and it will eventually even out to a 20-degree angle on both sides of your edge.
Personally, with the Sharpmaker, I like to set the main bevel at 30 degrees inclusive and then used the 40-degree stone to maintain a microbevel. Sharpening is so much faster and easier that way. And that's really the way the Sharpmaker is at its best.
If you sharpen with the Sharpmaker in the 40-degree setting, you'll get a full bevel on the 20-degree side and a microbevel on the more acute side of the bevel. As you sharpen in the future, you can concentrate on the more acute side using the 40-degree setting, and it will eventually even out to a 20-degree angle on both sides of your edge.
Personally, with the Sharpmaker, I like to set the main bevel at 30 degrees inclusive and then used the 40-degree stone to maintain a microbevel. Sharpening is so much faster and easier that way. And that's really the way the Sharpmaker is at its best.
If the blade is really dull and blunted, the sharpmaker is going to take ages and ages to get the blade to a nice keen sharpness. So you really need to use the Lansky or another sharpener to get the edge sharp first. Then finish it off with the SharpMaker, or just maintain it frequently with the SharpMaker.
Brian.