Reprofiling an edge

rc3mil

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What is the point? What is wrong with the 20' factory bevels? Im kinda new to knives and angles and sharpening and want to know what everyone is talking about. if a 20' edge is still hair shaving sharp, then what is the point of re profiling?

What systems/methods do you use to re profile you blades and why?
 
For most people the factory angles are fine, but there are some who need to fix that which is not broke.
 
Sometimes you just aren't happy with the way a knife cuts, then you reprofile the blade to something less conservative and WOW that sucker really can cut! I wasn't happy with my Leatherman K502x so I reprofiled the bevel and now I have it nicely cutting to my satisfaction.
 
So if i wanted to reprofile my IZULA to 15 or 17 degrees, the sharpmaker would be useless to me correct?
 
It may take some time on the sharpmaker without the diamond rods, but not useless. You just need to tilt the knife closer to the rods.
 
Many manufacturers can't put a decent edge on a knife to save their lives. Not cheap stuff, but otherwise good quality and not inexpensive knives. I have a handfull that absolutely had to be reprofiled.
 
In my experience, most knives do not come with 20* factory bevels. If they say they are, then that typically means they're somewhere between 20* and 30*. I've seen many knives with factory bevels of 90* per side (that means the edge is flat). In cases like this, you're not really rebeveling, since there was never a finished bevel in the first place. However, you do have to cut a new bevel if you want a sharp knife.

Different knives serve different purposes. 20* may not work for the particular use of the knife.

Thinner angles cut better and increase edge holding. Anything above about 20* doesnt really cut the way most people on a knife forum expect.

If sharpening is done free hand with no guides, stone holders, jigs, clamps, etc., many people just sharpen at an angle they can hold consistently. If the knife in question has a different angle, it has to be rebeveled or you have to change your technique. Its often easier to rebevel.

If you need to sharpen using some sort of guided system, the stated angle, if any, almost never matches the angle of whatever system you want to use. For the system to work, rebeveling is a must, either to a lower angle so the stones actually hit the edge, or to a higher angle. In the case of rebeveling to a higher angle, repeated sharpening will eventually bring the edge angle up to match the sharpening angle.

In terms of resharpening time, consistency is very important. If all your knives are sharpened at the same angle, there is no need to take time to try to match each knife individually. The same technique is used for all the knives and things go faster that way.

The factory bevel may be too thin and become damaged. Rebeveling may be required to increase the strength of the edge and prevent chipping, denting, rolling, etc.

Most books and references on sharpening have the stance that 99% of factory knives have bevels that are thicker than needed, and that the bevels can be thinned and cutting ability increased substantially without the knife taking damage during routine cutting.
 
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An angle of 15-17 degrees can be touched up on the SM just fine, rc3mil. At 15 degrees per side, the SM will hone the edge well. At 17y degrees per side, just use it to set a secondary(micro) bevel.
 
What is the point? What is wrong with the 20' factory bevels?

What's wrong with them? Could be nothing, could be everything.

Some people like a knife that cuts better rather than one that holds an edge longer.

For example, I just reprofiled one side of my Delica to... Okay, I don't know the edge angle measurements since I do it all by hand, but one side has bevels less than 1/16" long, and the other side has bevels about 1/8" long (we're talking from the edge to the primary grind). The second side has bevels about twice as long, meaning it's quite a severe angle. And let me tell you, this thing cuts like a MONSTER now.

So the reason some people take the angle down is because it cuts much better. And I mean a LOT better; I actually wasn't a believer until a couple days ago.
 
The factory edges are a compromise intended to work well for most applications. You can always improve on it for a given blade, steel and application. It isn't necessary to do that, of course, but it is doable for those who are passionate about blade performance. If you like the factory edge, then use the factory edge. Personally, I never get a chance to test them. I grind them to my specs right out of the box.
 
For most people the factory angles are fine, but there are some who need to fix that which is not broke.

Here is an analogy. It is like a new car...it works just fine but a percentage of owners want to customize it to fit their needs and wants.

If you are an average person (most are) then a factory grind may be just dandy.
 
There's many here I agree with for different reasons; 338, Me2 and THG . First, don't do it if your happy w/ the bevel and the way the knife cuts . 2) At some point one should learn to do this procedure if you enjoy tinkering w/ knives . 3) It does enhance the knifes performance alot . So does a guide w/ free hand sharpening . DM
 
If the edge comes screaming sharp when I get it I'll leave it that way for awhile.But,half the time my blades don't come sharp enough for me.Then I'll break out the diamond benchstones and do some reproling.
 
What edge would you rather have?

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I profile a knife for the work that it will do.

Most of my EDC folders are reprofiled to 15 or 12 degrees, depending on the steel.

I don't use a knife for chopping, (that's why I have axes :p ) so I see no need for angles greater than 15 degrees.

My CPM M-4 folders, and my S90V dolders are at 12 degrees. and they cut like light sabres.

The lower the angle, the better the blade cuts. Of course, 23 to 25 degrees is fine if you use your knife for an axe or a prybar! :thumbdn:

Factory angles are set for the customer who abuses a knife. And yes, they are mostly "broken," so they need to be "fixed." :)
 
For most people the factory angles are fine, but there are some who need to fix that which is not broke.

Just because something isn't broke, doesn't mean it can't be improved. Dull knives aren't broken, so why "fix" them? ;)

Knives cut. Thin knives cut better. Some people understand that, some don't. That's all there is to it, that's all there ever was to it.
 
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