Resto of a KATCO

[lmalterna]

I was going to finish this before posting anything but had a mishap. Never have cut myself while swinging an axe but have plenty of cuts from handling or sharpening an axe. While polishing the bevel on this one, I buried the corner of the heel in the end of my finger... so pics during the work stoppage. I rarely think to do before pics but took a couple this time. Handle looks to be original 27" and had the metal cap wedge. Head is marked 3 1/2 and weighed 3lbs 7.5 oz.
Edge was sharp but a little thick behind the edge and had some pitting along the cutting bevel. The head was mounted high on the haft and was tight. I will drop it some and use a wooden wedge. I hope this interests someone. I learn something from every video or posting of work. Sometimes things very helpful, sometimes things that work but do not suit me, and sometimes something that just does not work. If anyone has a question, please speak up, maybe we can both learn from the question.
Thanks,
Bill

Before:

 

[lmalterna]

I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to remove the loose rust prior to starting in on anything else.

Someone had cleaned some of the mushroom but I have found I prefer peening the steel with a ballpeen hammer. This flattens the sides of the poll and leaves the extra steel at the rear of the poll. Then I file that part. I am liking this much better. The hammering leaves a finish that blends with the old iron/soft steel. I file enough to remove sharp edges only.

 

[lmalterna]

The profile was a little thick behind the edge. I filed this(Black Diamond Mill 2nd cut), leaving the edge. Then filed the edge and a series of thin flats creating a faceted bevel. I then use an oil stone to blend these into a convex and remove the file marks. Once done, I move to a rubber sanding block, 150-220(also use the 220 on the cheeks)- 320-600-1000. Sometimes I stop along the way but try to always go to 320. I also use a leather tab under the sandpaper sometimes for small areas, just a piece of belt between fingers and paper.

I did not show it but I used a very small mill file to lightly bevel the edges of the eye top and bottom. Nothing major, just to break the 90 degree edge. Seems to help compress the wood into the eye instead of just shaving it off.
Once the finger gets a little better, I will slime the side of the handle and lightly remove the wood patina to get everything to bland and start laying on the raw linseed oil.
Thanks,
Bill

 

[lmalterna]

Finger is still sensitive as all get out but good enough to have finished the handle and the hang. I slimmed the shoulder, sanded out some rough scratches and have been apply oil and soaking the head. I wish the handle were 30", NE axes tend to run a little short but this one is 27"- just stand closer
Bill

How I soak my heads and handles. I like raw linseed oil. The ammo bucket is a 5.00 Walmart special. It will take a double Maine wedge head up to 10" diagnonally or an 8" poll axe. I have 4 axes soaking heads right now.

The tube is 3" PVC. I need to add an overflow and catch bucket.

After soaking and wiping down handle, I let them hang and air dry a few weeks. Then apply the Feed Wax- this seals against moisture but the wax prevents them from being slick.