Restoring Old Timer

[NOREAT]

I have a single blade Schrade Old Timer skinning knife. All metal on the knife is spotted, the channel is dirty and rusted, the opening action is very gritty, and there is significant up-and-down blade play. How would I go about restoring it to pristene condition?

 

[yablanowitz]

It depends on the model of knife. Some of the big skinners/folding hunters were made in a manner that would require a total disassembly and machining new parts such as backspring and pivot pin to remove the vertical play. It could easily cost more than a new knife to restore it, possibly a lot more. I have a 25OT that falls into that catagory.

 

[Bob W]

I would guess the up and down blade play would be very difficult to fix without machining a new part.

The spotting is probably not a problem. The blades on most Old Timer knives are carbon steel, and that's what carbon steel does over time or if exposed to acidic fluids.

The grit, rust, and dirt should be easy to clean out. Hot running water, dish soap, and a few q-tips. Add a couple drops of oil into the joint after cleaning and a light coat of oil on the blade.

Personally, if the knife is too loose to use safely, I'd clean it and set it aside as an heirloom.

Good Luck.

 

[NOREAT]

I'm not too worried about the blade play, as I never use it. It's already an heirloom. Cleaning the channel should not be hard now that I know that I can use water, the main problem for me is how to remove spots from the blade and metal on the handle. I've tried soap, bore cleaner, and oil. Any suggestions?

 

[-Ranger-]

A tube of Maas polish and a microfiber cloth should do the trick.
Takes the patina right off my A2 Bark River knives.

 

[yablanowitz]

I use Flitz brand metal polish, but MAAS works, too.

 

[Bob W]

The spots on the blade are probably just normal signs of age and use. Rather than removing the years of history you have with the knife, I'd leave them.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Use some very fine steel wool and a metal polish. Should clean up beautifully.

 

[flarp]

I've got a Schrade Old Timer 120T as well that could benefit from a little bit of cleaning up. There are a number black spots in the channel and significant rust on both liners. I tried using WD40 on a paper towel to wipe down the liners, as I am not sure how to take the knife apart (or if it's even serviceable in that manner).

Has anyone tried CLR to remove rust from the inside of a knife? It's worked well on some other tools, but I've never used it in a folding knife. Not sure if it will cause other damage if it works its way into any of the moving parts.

 

[orca8589]

The old U.S. Schrade Old Timer series are not easily disassembled - they were built with a system called the "Swinden Key" system. Once apart, they're very difficult if not impossible to reassemble back to factory specs.

Actually, if you just want the knife to be a user, there's a tutorial by orvet in post #3 in this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...le-Construction-3-questions?highlight=swinden

~Chris

 

[jwolf90]

A tube of Maas polish and a microfiber cloth should do the trick.
Takes the patina right off my A2 Bark River knives.

Thats funny my friends family owns Maas Polish

 

[Bob W]

Has anyone tried CLR to remove rust from the inside of a knife? It's worked well on some other tools, but I've never used it in a folding knife. Not sure if it will cause other damage if it works its way into any of the moving parts.

I'd be concerned with the possible effects of CLR on the delrin plastic handles.

 

[Javelin]

for the blade play this has worked for me in the past:

fold a magazine over the knife. Take a hammer and with a light hit strike where the bolster and pin is, increase force and number of strikes as necessary.

I've done this with a few used and abused slipjoints, including a trapperlock which I had to use to pry something apart. Dented the bolster a bit, but the action and lockup of the knife is as good as new.

 

[yablanowitz]

If it uses the Swindon key system mentioned above (like my 25OT), you can beat on it all day and it won't help. You can run over it with a truck and not take any play out. I know this, because the aforementioned 25OT has in fact been run over multiple times.

 

[Pete Nemec]

For wobble in blades I have a solution. I have a very small bench mounted vise the jaws are about 2 1/2" long . I glued a thick piece of leather in the jaws that open about 3 inches. I snug the bolster up in the jaws. Then give it about a half turn or so. No more wobble ! Do not "gorilla" the thing, if you do the wobble will disappear but You will not be able to close the knife. Usa a feather not the whole turkey. The pin that the blade rotates on may stand proud a few thousands. Good luck Pete lobo

 

[AdamFuzzyballs]

For wobble in blades I have a solution. I have a very small bench mounted vise the jaws are about 2 1/2" long . I glued a thick piece of leather in the jaws that open about 3 inches. I snug the bolster up in the jaws. Then give it about a half turn or so. No more wobble ! Do not "gorilla" the thing, if you do the wobble will disappear but You will not be able to close the knife. Usa a feather not the whole turkey. The pin that the blade rotates on may stand proud a few thousands. Good luck Pete lobo

Good advice, but just as a heads up the original poster hasn’t been on bladeforums since November of 2012. I noticed you’re newer, and a lot (almost all) new guys tend to resurrect old threads. Just a heads up, most tend to frown upon reviving real old threads unless it’s an update or something of that nature!

 

[Pete Nemec]

My ignorance is showing. Thanks for the advice.

 

[yablanowitz]

Just a further bit of advice: your method will work IF the pivot is a through pin, but NOT if it is Swindon key construction, like the old Schrades under discussion.