Review Buck 501 Squire

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Aug 19, 2006
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The last time I purchased a Buck was about 20 years ago
when I was 11. I bought one of the original Bucklites.
It was my first quality locking knife. Everything before
that had been SAKs (mainly because of MacGyver. hey I was 11 :-)

So now I come full circle. I have higher end knives
like the BM 710, a plethora of SAKS, a couple of Case and
Queen slip joints, a Delica 4, BM Mini-grip and a partridge in a pair tree.

I bought the Squire for the following reasons:
1. inexpensive (under $35)
2. sheeple friendly... looks traditional not tactical.
3. good blade geometry for a wide variety of tasks.
4. I love knives! :-)

I'm used to having D2, 1095 and 154CM as blade steels and love them all.
I've heard that Buck's 420HC was da bomb among 420HCs.
I'll be providing more info on the the perfomance of this steel
at a later date. I plan on testing it against the other steels mentioned above in a sort of showdown.

My inital impressions out of he box were that for the $33 I paid for it
this is a really high quality knife! The blade grind is perfect....
seriously flawless. A nice hollow saber grind on a drop point blade. A very useful geometry. The spine is about as thick as my Delica's
and comes to a nice thin hollow ground with about a 15ish degree edge.

The wood is perfectly flush with the bolsters... better then my Case
Amber Bone Medium Stockman CV. And as good as my Queens.

The lockup is nice. No bladeplay either vertical or horizontal.
The lock itself isn't as chunky as on my Delica but for the blade size
it is pretty decent. It has a nice snap to it when engaged.

In the hand it feels great. Everything is nice and smooth.
No sharp corners or edges even with a tight grip.

The only defects it has are that two of the bolsters are
ground down just a little too much at the corners.
But for $33 not really an issue. Plus it causes no functional problems.
I don't think these are for collecting anyways. :-)

NIB Sharpness was adequate. It popped a few hairs but
wasn't up to Sypderco snuff. So a few rounds on the flat side
of the spyderco white rods made it shaving sharp.

In comparison I can't for the life of me get my Case Tru-Sharp
to shave. I can get all my other knives to pop hairs except this knife.

I dismantled the FedEx box it came in rather efficiently.
It's a great little cutter. I also opened up some envelops.
This might not be a 'tough' test like chopping through concrete
but it's what I need the knife to do. Some knives are better then
this then others. So far my slip joints rule the roost since they
are thin flat ground blades. The nice pointy blade on the
Squire got in and slid right down the envelopes with ease.

I have to say I am impressed with this knife. You definitely
are getting more then your money's worth. Now if it only came in S30V
with titanium bolsters and Stag slabs! But for EDC this knife
should fit the bill more then adequately.
 
Now if it only came in S30V with titanium bolsters and Stag slabs!

Now you're sounding like me..."if it only came in..."

It sure is hard to find the perfect knife. I haven't found it yet, but I agree that S30V with Ti and Stag would come close to being perfect.

I'm glad you like your new knive.

Thanks for the review...and let us know how the 420 HC from Buck does.
:)
 
I've been EDC'ing an Idaho 501 for over a year now. I concur with this review in every respect. It is not the best steel on the planet, but it is darn good. I think Buck/Paul Bos have the HT figured out just right. Mine passes the brass-rod test quite well (VERY minimal edge folding, NO chipping) and still sharpens almost as easily as my carbon-steel knives. Fit and finish is exemplary, a high standard to judge other knives by. It is handy, eminently carriable, durable, classy-looking, and an absolute STEAL at $40 or less. I would never chop or pry with it, clearly it's not designed for that. But I have no complaints about how mine has held up cutting cardboard, steak, veggies, cord, cleaning fingernails, and shaving hair off my leg. As msiley said, the profile and grind make this a really useful blade and a damn fine slicer. It will take as fine and polished an edge as you care to put on it.

I honestly don't know how Buck makes a profit on these, when I have tried other similar knives that command far more $$$ and only perform as well, at best. The profit margin must be slim, because they clearly have not skimped on materials or craftsmanship. It's a darn good EDC without considering the price; for the money, I can't say enough good things about it.

Looking forward to your comparison tests with other steels.

BTW I've seen stag 501's on Ebay; you might ask in the Buck forums about finding one. I think the ones I saw were 420HC, though, not the high-end steels.
 
GibsonFan... (or anyone else reading)
Here's my idea for testing some small knives.

I'm going to take a handful of knives of various steels.
The candidates are:
Buck 501 420HC - Hollow Saber Grind Drop Point
Delcia 4 VG-10 - Flat Saber Grind Modified Drop Point (I guess :-)
BM Mini-Grip 154CM - Flat Tanto Grind

Queen Canoe 1095 - Flat Grind Spear Point
or Case CV Medium Stockman (not sure which one yet)

Vic SAK Soldier INOX - Flat Grind Spear Point

They are all small knives... so I'm going to do small knife
chores with them. Cutting rope, whittling wood, cutting
up boxes, opening envelopes, etc. Things I would normally do every day or while camping.
I've done this before and found one factor many miss
is not just steel or blade geomtery but long term handle comfort.
Who cares how long your edge lasts if you can't cut anymore without
the use of gloves.

This will happen most likely next weekend. Should be fun!

If anyone has any more ideas post it to this thread and I'll take it into
consideration.
 
I would like to hear your results on this project. I have a 560 that gets carried a lot and it is very comfortable in the hand. I have never had a problem with 420HC, but I did notice that it does not keep that hair poping sharpness like steels such as s30v, but it still cuts very nicely.



Thanks for the review,
John
 
Sounds great! I look forward to your report. But I did have questions for you to consider.

How will you differentiate which factors are affecting the ability of the knife to cut? How will you know if it is blade geometry or steel? Or will you just report on the performance of the knife itself?

What bevel will you be putting on each type of steel? Will you optimize the bevel angle for each type?
 
knarfeng

Well there is blade geometry to consider. It won't be the steel
unto itself. Most are flat grinds, one hollow. All blades
will be at 30 degrees inclusive straight from the sharpmaker.
All will be as sharp as I can get them without stropping.

I can't get blades of all the same grind, size and shape
with different steels. That being
said all the blades are 3-2.5 inches.
So it's really a small knife test, testing the entire package.
If the INOX SAK or BUCK 501 with their 'lowly' steels
beat the Delica, this would be surprising... even with the SAKs
full flat grind and thinner blade I don't expect that to happen.
But I am interested in how long they last against the higher end steels.
Also, I'm very intersted in how the 1095 and CV knives work out.
It's the ultimate fight of high end stainless versus good ole carbon. :-)

I sharpened all the knives tonight at and tested them on... me.
they all are popping hairs really well.
 
Sounds like a good test to me; not entirely "scientific", but a reasonable comparison. I would GUESS the 154CM will keep it's edge longest but that depends on HT, too.

I think you should also test, how long it takes to bring each blade BACK to hair-popping sharp after they've dulled, with the same sharpening equipment. To me, that's an important factor.

You have an excellent point about general design and comfort/ease of use. I think cost should be noted, too. Seems to me that some folks pay 100% more for 10% more performance. Yes, some will say they're willing to pay anything for that slight "edge" but I tend to think they're just showing off how fat their wallet is. (or how far in debt they're willing to go for bragging rights.)

Looking forward to reading your results!

P.S. there's no such thing as an "ultimate" test between steels, in my humble opinion. There's always a trade-off somewhere; there are so many variables that you can wind up chasing your tail. I bet you'll find all those knives do pretty well, overall.

P.P.S. please tell me you're NOT going to fire them out of a cannon at a brick wall :jerkit:
 
I have always liked the 501, I bought one when they first came out in the 70s. And my wife got me a 501MS with BG-42 blade a while back, too.
 
I wish they would bring back the 501MS! Better yet they
make it part of the Custom Shop.

I started my test as talked about above.
So far it looks like the Case CV Stockman wants to close on me
when I cut deep into wood! Not too dangerous if you pay attention.

Also there is a big difference between the thin blades on
the SAK, Queen Canoe, Stockman and 501... they
want to cut deeper into wood. Whereas the Delica
and Mini-Grip want to cut shallower. i.e. it takes less
force with the thin blades then the thicker ones. (makes sense I guess)
 
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