Review of Tora Blade

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Mar 22, 2002
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Some time ago Kohei wrote to me and asked if I'd test a Tora Khukuri. There has been curiosity and questions about this new company. Recent examples from Auction were not entirely flattering. Kohei knew I chopped wood and wanted an honest appraisal on a regular Tora blade. I didn't approach this lightly; many of you recall the story of the guy who was on his way to buy a throwing Hawk and just stopped in Himalayan Imports for a quick look at what the hell was a Khukuri?
I never got the Hawk.
I've been curious about other khukuris, especially Tora, as people said they had an excellent product. People also said they had a substandard product.
I was curious enough to pay the shipping to get the blade over here. It was a friendly and generous gesture on Tora's part to provide the 'specimen', and to their advantage if the blade survived my testing, as you and I share a high regard for one another.
Of course, Tora did not know I'd broken a couple HI blades two years ago, shortly after finding the place. Single handedly, I might add.
It was my idea if there was a catostrophic failure I would not review the blade; other than that, all bets were off.
I asked Rusty if he thought it was alright to test this Khukuri. He said, sure, bring it on out and tell us what you find.
There are no pictures, and I apologize. I spent some time getting shots of wood being cut, close ups of the blade's construction, etc. But my computer does not recognize my camera, and I wanted to get what I'd learned out now.

Yesterday I finished the last step of my usual test of a new Khukuri from HI. The finisher. I swung the blade as hard as I could at several different conditions of Pine. The first wood is hard and filled with resin, the second half green, and the third just a standard dry piece. The WWll khuk from Tora is still whole. This is about the most heavy duty khuk they have. It weighs 26oz and is a tad less than 19.5" in length. The thickest part of the blade's spine is .284" , just over 1/4" The blade is an inch and 3/8's wide in front of the cho, and about 2.5" wide at the broadest portion of the blade. It looks very much like a HI M43 on a diet.
The wooden handle is very attractive with lively grain, as are the Karda and Chakma. It does not have the end cap of HI but rather an elongated diamond shaped plate of metal peened to the end of the tang. You would enjoy looking at that- it is different. This plate centers the handle but does not go to the edge- which is exposed wood. The Khuk is beautiful.
I'd heard Tora blades came sharp. This was but not as sharp as expected. Soon after chopping though, the edge was sharper still, and I presume it lost a burr. It did not have the mirror finish of HI. It was well polished but had a satin finish- like you'd get with 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper. The edge was obviously convex. Fit and finish were excellent, as was the meeting of the scabbard with the knife. It has the bolster Yvsa likes. (The scabbard is brown and the frog like that of a BAS, btw.) But the blade did have very slight depressions and images from the hammer. It had a single light fuller. It was not as clean/level a surface as an HI, though it reminded me very much of a Kesar Chitlangi I have, which shows the same very slight uneveness.
I cut through a half green 6" diameter pine log with the Tora WWll, and a 2.5 pound 20" HI Villager. I also brought out the Kesar Chitlangi as at 25 oz and 19.5" as it was close to the Tora spec. Only the Villager would penetrate deeply enough to stick- the other two did not on the initial cut.
The Villager went through the log in 3 minutes. I took my time and turned the log as I cut for each of the blades. The WWll went through in 5 minutes. I didn't time the chitlangi but it acted similar to the WWll
I tried the test again and to my surprise this time the two blades tied at 3 minutes. That's not fast to you guys, but my back is giving me moderate to severe pain this last month, and the important part of the test was to try and duplicate the same conditions for each. This was one of the questions to be answered: Does a thinner blade cut as well as a thicker one? Actually though, the edge profile for the khuks was very similar despite the differences in weight and spine thickness. I use the heavy Villager for lopping off branches, usually with one blow, from a fallen tree. The WWll could not do that, but then, the Chitangi couldn't either. So a question might be better phrased as, "how much weight should you have to cut what type of material?"

So, what did I find out? Not that much. This blade has an entirely different aspect to it than does an HI. It is thinner. Blade speed is quicker, with less effort but you make more strikes for chopping. In a way it's like the Big Bore Vs Small bore cartridge comparison. Historically khukuris have thinner blades than do HI, don't they? It's a large chopping knife leaning towards the machetee, and HI is a large knife leaning towards the axe. I've heard from forumites who were here before me that many wanted a more slender blade from HI. And I think the blades have become more slender- but not as slender as Tora. That's good; because I like what HI does. If my WWll is representative of Tora, I like what they do too.
The edge held, and is still sharp. And because it's slender it does something my HI's have not- it actually 'rings' out sometimes when striking wood. I got a real kick out of that.
It would be interesting to see how far the Tora would go before destruction, but I'm not Cliff Stamp. If Tora wants to find out, that would be the route.
This is not a tourist blade. I think there's room in the world for Tora to offer a fine product. I like mine and so does my son, though his favorite khuk is still in the safe.
On a final note, I brought my UBE out and wacked away at the logs. It was a cutting fiend. It would stick on the first cut like the Villager. Makes me think all these blades should be judged on an individual basis.



munk
 
Thanks munk...I've been curious myself and you answered many questions I had.
 
Munk,

My Tora would cut through a green 6" pine without problem. However when I tried it on dried wood the blade started bending. Not the edge rolling like some HI's but on back up.

Sounds like you didn't really give it much of a test if you only used it on pine. ;)
 
Hollowdweller, you and I have talked many times, and you know we are very much alike in what we want from a blade. I used this Tora on 'just pine' ;but this 'just pine' broke two blades and rippled another. Some of this stuff is hard. I think it has to do with water deprivation- they grow thin rings, twisted and knotty limbs, and are often thick with resin. I remember a poster talking about how he just pushed dead standing pine down with his arms or sometimes a truck. You can't push these down with your arms, and I don't think a truck will do for any but the most rotten.

I don't know if Tora after 15 or 20 years will have the reputation of HI. They'll have to sell a lot of blades and those blades will have to last. I don't even know if they have a lifetime guarentee like HI. If this one fails I'll let you know. This is their most heavy duty model- so it is like apples and oranges. HI is the industry standard, the Mack truck. I was surprised in a number of ways by the Tora. For instance, it is known for beauty, but I found the flat of the blade inconsistant compared to HI, and I don't know if that's a characteristic of a thinner blade or what. I don't think HI gives up anything in beauty to Tora, and I'd heard different. But I will give credit where credit is due- the Tora was a beautiful blade too.

There's no question which blade I'd reach for at the end of the World. I gotta have meat. When you get an HI, you just bought your great great grandson a birthday present.


munk
 
It hasn't changed my belief in HI, but I think other people can make fine stuff. While the Tora WWll would not be my choice of a logging tool day in and day out, I think a lot of Nepal has been deforested by just such a blade.

I have a naive question- HI has thick spines. Metal costs money. I'm wondering if HI is the Blade many would have preferred if they could have A. Gotten it, and B, Afforded it. Is HI an improvement over the traditional Khuk?
Are there historical pieces similar to HI?
What really surprised me was that Tora can cut, and HI is still very very beautiful. It's not as if HI was only a Bull in a China Shop.


munk
 
Nice review Munk...
If you decide to test the Tora khuk out on harder wood such as Oak or Hickory I'm very interested in your results. Unfortunately, I can't relate to chopping pine, seasoned or not, but did spend the latter part of this winter splitting and 'sizing up' 2"-5" Hickory and Oak pieces for the fireplace. I will vouch that even semi-seasoned Hickory is much easier to chop than when fully seasoned. I found myself putting the razor sharp 12" AK down many times and retrieving my 16.5" Villager to finish even small work like 2-3" branches. This wood is just plain tough! Guess it stands to reason because so many tool handles are made from Hickory.
 
Thanks Munk! I've often wondered about the Tora blades myself and I'm glad you tested one and found it suitable.:D
Now I'm wondering about the consistent working quality of their product and hope that it would be equal to HI's or better.
And it's a big plus with me to know they have the standard bolster and the convex edge as a khukuri should have IMO. I'm betting there's not as much cho creep with these khuks either, or is there?
The Khukuri House in Katmandhu also makes a good khuk but their overall quality sometimes slips in comparison to HI but it would be interesting to know if the working quality is consistently the same or better than HI's BirGhorka khukuri's.
Fit and finish is nice and it's nice to be able to buy a knife with those qualities, but more important to me personally is the working quality. If a knife doesn't have that then AFAIC you can dump it in with the tourist model's.:grumpy:
I've been strongly considering asking Khukuri House if they will build me a Dui Chiarra based on the Foxy Folly in a 17"-18" model as it looks like that's the only way I will be able to get one.
I've already inquired and they do take custom orders.:D

And to answer one of your questions... All of the older khuks I've seen are thinner and lighter than the HI models although from your AK and a couple of the later HI khuk's I've gotten they have pretty much came back to what the old khuks are so perhaps the days of the heavy weight HI khuk's are over.:)

As to Pine being hard, I totally agree with you. Some of it is as hard as ol' Coalie's Arse!!!!;)
I've had instances where swinging an axe at it with all my strength produced nothing but an instant reaction to the action in that the axe would rebound with a zing!!!!
Douglas Fir is also an evergreen that can produce extra hard examples. This is the stuff you don't see cut into lumber because it simply is not suitable for that application, however it makes an excellent long lasting firewood that generally starts quickly and burns extra hot compared to the average example of evergreen.
The rezin soaked pine and douglas fir makes excellent starter tinder in that it takes little in the way of an ember to get an instant flame from it.:D
Seems there's a name for it but I can't recall it at the moment.:rolleyes:
 
I doubt most people who are going to buy a Tora will do so for strictly wood cutting uses. It may be Tora will never get the kind of universal, year after year pounding HI has in the field. As I said, if this one breaks I'll let you all know. I've seen this 'just pine' so hard my Villager and Baby Ganga Ram bounced off. But even if the Tora WWll never finds such wood, you'd think with extended use even Pine would tell the tale if it wasn't up to it.

I can tell you one thing- my friend Hollowdweller wishes he was at my house right now so he could take a few whacks with it!!



munk
 
The rezin soaked pine and douglas fir makes excellent starter tinder in that it takes little in the way of an ember to get an instant flame from it.
Seems there's a name for it but I can't recall it at the moment.
>>>>>>>>>>>
Yvsa

Is it called "pitch"? My sons and I call it, 'fire chips"- and it was you who told me about carrying it in the truck and hiking in case of emergencies.

munk
 
Yeah, I'd love to try it. I had hi hopes for mine and :( The steel was too soft.

I really like the Tora version of the M43 and if I start hearing some good feed back on them I'd like to try one.
 
Sounds like a reasonable comparison. Khuks vary from one to the next, and quality control is always a factor.

There are a bunch here who have a half-dozen or even a dozen or more HI's each. They know what to expect of HI.

Time will tell as Tora gets more khuks sold in europe, where shipping is not so much a price factor or is counterbalanced by high shipping costs for HI over there for HI.

Seems to me that when qc is such a factor the dealer's integrity becomes more of a requirement. That's a given for HI. Tora is going to have to build a record for themselves. ( This isn't a knock - HI has had it's ups and downs, also. That's how it built it's reputation.)

I wish Tora luck with their business.
 
rezin soaked pine and douglas fir makes excellent starter tinder

Byron calls resin soaked pine "fatlighter". It is tres tough- been known to use my GRS two-handed on it.

John
 
Yeah, I'd love to try it. I had hi hopes for mine and The steel was too soft.>>>>>> Hollowdweller

Isn't there some way Tora could make that right?


munk
 
Spectre said:
Byron calls resin soaked pine "fatlighter". It is tres tough- been known to use my GRS two-handed on it.

John
There's probably several names for the pitch soaked wood as there usually is for any substance that's useful and especially one that is a potential lifesaver.
Fatlighter isn't the name I'm trying to recall but it'll do.;)
Just had a flash and it seems that the word "knot" is part of it but not for certain.:rolleyes:
 
Talkin' about knotty pine?

Hey...didja know you can only post one message every 60 seconds? :barf:
 
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